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November 26, 2005

Snow and Ice Warning

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Beware of snow and ice in northern France this weekend - in the départements of Nord-Pas-de-Calais, Somme, Oise, Aisne, Ardennes, Marne.

For travel info see www.bison-fute.equipement.gouv.fr/, which gives info (in French) on French traffic conditions (roadworks, accidents,congestion) or www.meteo.fr for weather forecasts - also in French but with graphic symbols which are easy to translate.

For more on France, French Travel, Wine & Food see www.frenchduck.co,uk

Keywords: France, Travel

November 25, 2005

Nottingham/East Midlands to Bergerac,Limoges

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Ryanair www.ryanair.com has brought forward by a month the start of their new routes to Bergerac (24 Dordogne, Aquitaine) and Limoges (89 Haut-Vienne,Limousin) due to high bookings - so these routes now start on 8th and 9th of February 2006. Both destinations qualify as "the real France" in our book - and whilst Bergerac has wine, Limoges has porcelain!

For more on France, French Wine, Food and Travel see www.frenchduck.co.uk

Keywords: France,Travel,Bergerac,Limoges

November 23, 2005

Canal du Midi website

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Rick Stein's recent travels in his "French Odyssey" series featured a canal barge trip from Bordeaux to Marseille (well, almost). The first half of the trip to Toulouse is technically along the "Canal Lateral à la Garonne", as the Canal du Midi runs east from Toulouse to the Etang du Thau on the Mediterranean coast near Sète via the outskirts of Carcassonne, Narbonne and Beziers. Amazingly construction was begun in the 17th Century, providing an important economic and strategic equivalent of a water motorway.It remains a viable waterway, albeit mainly for pleasure use these days.

The Canal is largely tree-lined and can offer a quiet wonderful sanctuary from the summer heat, as well as diverting you off the main autoroute or major N road. The canal takes you through wine country, the land of the Cathars, the heartland of French Rugby and a gastronomic paradise of duck and goose dishes, including the legendary Cassoulet. The scale of the engineering involved was recognised in 1997 when the canal was created as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO.

There is an interesting website at www.canalmidi.com/ written by an enthusiast, but with an English translation and with info and links to almost anything to do with the canal.

Canals in France are managed by Voies Navigables de France (VNF) - the French equivalent of the British Waterways Board or whatever it is called these days. Their website is at www.vnf.fr where you can find maps of the network which is quite extensive in NE France, Loire, Burgundy, Rhone, Provence and Languedoc.

For an entertaining read about a narrow boat journey from the UK to the Languedoc see "Narrow Dog to Carcassonne" by Terry Darlington

For more on France, French Wine, Food & Travel visit www.frenchduck.co.uk

Keywords: France, Travel,Canal,Midi,Canal du Midi,Toulouse, Narbonne, Beziers

November 22, 2005

La Belle Saison in Bergerac

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Patricia Atkinson has now published a follow-up to the very readable "A Ripening Sun" which traced her challenges and realities of buying a vineyard at Gageac et Rouillac near Bergerac (24 Dordogne, Aquitaine). An area I know well, she managed both to entertain and inform, and I learned much about the real work of running a vineyard, getting in the harvest and vinifying the wine. Yes there is the inevitable idioscyncratic cariacature of the French yokel, but some great insights into rural life in a French community. This second book continues the story as she settles into her 15th year in wine!
Her wines have won many plaudits, and she has a good website - CLICK HERE; you can also join her wine club get a guaranteed quantity of wine at a discount plus discounts on accommodation in Bergerac and an annual dinner in London - all designed to make you feel part of the enterprise.
You can save 30% on the book at Amazon UK

For more on France, French Wine, Food & Travel visit www.frenchduck.co.uk

Keywords: France,Bergerac,Wine,Yvigne

November 21, 2005

A warm welcome at the Lille Wine Fair

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From all the reports and vivid images of the last few weeks, you could be forgiven for thinking that France had descended into some anarchic nightmare, but I am delighted to report that in Lille (59 Nord, Nord-Pas-de-Calais) there was no sign of any problems - the city was its usual busy and vibrant self, gearing up for Christmas. Even though our SatNav brought us in through some of the southern "banlieus" there were no "voitures brulees" to be seen, and perversely the absence of any visible increased police or CRS riot squad presence was really quite reassuring.

So, Lille was hugely enjoyable with its great shopping, Vieux Lille (old town), Christmas Carousel, Vauban fort and of course the 9th Annual Wine Fair (18-21 November 2005) - "Salon des Vins des Vignerons Independants". This year more than 490 independent vignerons were showing their wines - from every region of France including Corsica, Calvados, and Maury. Equipped with a tasting glass and an inquisitive palate you can try (and buy) as many different wines as you wish, although stamina tends to be the limiting factor. You buy at vineyard door prices, and get to chat to the men and women who make it - wonderful! Increasing numbers of Brits seem to have found this event - and there are hordes of Belgians, Lille being only 10 miles or so from the Belgian border. And, whatever you think about the Belgians, they know their wine and food!

We found (or re-discovered) some great Alsace (Riesling, Tokay-Pinot-Gris and Cremant), some superb Jurancon, some interesting Cotes de Malepere, Bergerac and Cheverny - more on these on a later posting.

The whole thing moves to Paris for the even bigger Paris Wine Fair held at Paris Expo - Porte de Versailles from 24-28 November 2005!

For more on France, French Wine, Food and Travel see www.frenchduck.co.uk

Keywords: France, Lille, Wine,Vigneron,Independant

November 20, 2005

Tips for living in France

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Some interesting tips on living in France (and for visitors too) appear on the Telegraph online. Ten celebrity Francophiles tell how they made a second life across the Channel, and offer a few tips to anyone thinking of following in their footsteps. One recommendation is to use the local Bricolage (DIY) store rather than go for IKEA for furnishings; (we've certainly found some useful items at Castorama which you cannot get in the UK); find the local markets (we are building a comprehensive list at www.frenchduck.co.uk available soon) and sourcing building materials locally. Terence Conran, Carole Drinkwater and Ken Hom are amongst those featured - but somehow I think I would prefer to see some tips from other people who do not have the luxury of being able to commute to their country cottage at whim, and those who truly aspire to participate full-time in French life.

See http://www.telegraph.co.uk

For more on France, Wine,Food & Travel see www.frenchduck.co.uk

November 16, 2005

Farewell E111 - Introducing EHIC!

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The old E111 form which provided evidence of entitlement to access the public health systems in Europe and Switzerland is being replaced with a new EUROPEAN HEALTH INSURANCE CARD (EHIC). The size of a credit card this will be easier to carry and produce as required to access health care in the EU with a similar entitlement to residents of the country concerned - and in most cases this is reduced cost or free. As the card is free, there is no good reason for travelling EU citizens not to carry one in the event of an accident or some form of medical emergency whilst in another EU state.
It does not replace the need for other insurance cover - i.e it will not cover repatriation or other expenses which may be incurred, and some insurance policies may restrict their cover within the EU assuming that you have the card, and hence free or cheap access to health care - check your policy.

In France

Visitors must pay for treatment and then apply for a refund of part of the costs from the CPAM - Local Sickness Insurance Offices (Caisse Primaire d'Assurance-Maladie).. Ensure that the doctor or dentist you consult is conventionné, that is, they work within the French health system. After treatment, obtain a signed statement of the treatment given (feuille de soins); you cannot claim a refund without it. You will be charged for the treatment you receive, as well as for any prescribed medicines, and the amount(s) should be shown on the feuille. When getting prescribed medicines, the pharmacist will hand you back your prescription and you should attach it to the feuille in order to claim a refund. Medicine containers also carry detachable labels (vignettes), showing the name and price of the contents. Stick these in the appropriate place on the feuille, and sign and date the form at the end. Around 70% of standard doctors' and dentists' fees are refunded, and between 35% and 65% of the cost of most, but not all, prescribed medicines.If you are treated in an approved hospital, the CPAM will pay 75% or more of the cost direct to the hospital. You pay the balance. You must also pay a fixed daily hospital charge (forfait journalier). The 25% balance and the forfait journalier are non-refundable.

Countries covered include all the EU countries plus Iceland, Malta and Switzerland - but not Northern Cyprus.

The card relates to one individual, not a family - but you can apply online - it's free and you need name, date of birth and National Insurance number.

For more info see http://www.dh.gov.uk/

For more on France, French Wine, Food & Travel see www.frenchducck.co.uk

November 13, 2005

Wine-making life in Cahors

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Families of the Vine by Michael Sanders - a follow-up to his fascinating "From Here you can't see Paris" this burrows deeply into the wine culture of Cahors in South West France, with an intimate exploration of three wine-making families in the region, including Clos Triguedena. The trials of climate, the difficult (but potentially wonderful) Malbec grape and the family issues are interwoven to give a unique insight into the realities of a life in wine production and living in rural Southwest France. For more info on this book CLICK HERE

For more on French Wines, Travel, Food etc see www.frenchduck.co.uk

Keywords: France, Cahors, Wine,South West

November 12, 2005

Getaway to Calais

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Tempting offer from the excruciatingly named www.ferrycheap.com:-
Get away before Christmas : Travel from Dover to Calais with P&O Ferries with a car and four passengers and choose to stay in one of two hotels for only £39 per person!
This price includes 24hr return travel and accommodation on a bed and continental breakfast basis - offer is valid until Dec 31st, See www.ferrycheap.com

For more on France, French Wine, Food and Travel see www.frenchduck.co.uk

Keywords: France, Travel, Ferry, Calais

November 10, 2005

Cahors 2006

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2006 is going to be a great year for the town of Cahors (46 Lot,Midi-Pyrenees) - as it sees the 700th Anniversary of the medieval fortified bridge (Pont Valentré) which is one of its main attractions. There will doubtless be many festivities to mark the ocassion, and we'll post the details as we get them.
On a more mundane, but practical note, there is a new free Park-and-Ride service (Navette) from the south side of the river (Chartreux) to the town centre, which should ease some of the parking difficulties in the town.
And Cahors is now recognised as "une Ville d'Art et d'Historie" by the French Government, one of 130 sites across France recognised for the importance and quality of their heritage. The town is also active in protecting and restoring much of this heritage, by restricting traffic and encouraging restoration without turning the place into a theme park. As with so many towns like this, although the obvious attractions of the main boulevard, market, Catherdral and the river are delighful, a bit of exploration on foot will yield some of the more interesting gems and snickleways in the heart of the medieval town.

For more on France, Travel, Wine & Food see www.frenchduck.co.uk

Keywords: France, Lot, Cahors

November 09, 2005

Train to the Snow

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Eurostar has announced its winter timetable for trains direct from London to the Alps for Winter 2006 - on Saturdays there are 3 direct destinations - Bourg St Maurice,la Plagne,Moustiers - e.g. £190 London Waterloo - Bourg St Maurice in just 7½ hours. There are plenty of other destinations on offer but these involve a change of trains in Lille or Paris. See www.eurostar.com.

For more on France, Travel, Food and Wine see www.frenchduck.co.uk

Keywords: France, Travel,Alps,Train

November 04, 2005

French Railway Strike - 21 Nov

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SNCF unions are threatening another 1 day strike on Monday 21 November 2005 to protest at the Government's plans to sell off all or part of the state-owned Railway company.

Just as an aside, I came across the latest version of the SNCF logo, which fashionably does nothing to communicate the nature of the business - just another multinational with a fancy bland logo - no obvious connection with the business of railways. Like the old British Railways logo brlogo.gif, at least some of the earlier versions implied some connection to rail or movement - and personally I like the original best with the intertwined letters of SNCF wich stands for "Société Nationale des Chemins de Fer Francais" - at least it was artistic and had references to wheels/tracks.

For more info on travel to and in France see www.frenchduck.co.uk

Keywords:France,Travel,Rail,SNCF

October 27, 2005

A28 Rouen - Alencon autoroute opens

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The A28 section from Rouen to Alencon is due to open 27 October 2005, which will mean fast motorway access to the south via Le Mans and the Loire Valley from the channel ports of Le Havre and Caen/Ouistreham. The section from Alencon to Le Mans is already open. but the new road will mean that the Alencon is about an hour away from Rouen, and with the A13 autoroute to Caen and the the existing A28 northwards towards Dieppe, Boulogne and Calais - all making a real alternative to having to negotiate Paris - and so far at least it is quieter (except around Rouen) - and has some delightful scenery and views.

For more French travel info see www.frenchduck.co.uk

Keywords:France, travel,autoroute,a28,rouen,alencon,le mans

October 26, 2005

Save our plane trees

French Plane Trees by the roadside
Controversy is raging in the Midi-Pyrenees about plans to remove hundreds of plane trees from the verges of main routes in the region. Even expat Brits have got in on the action. The regional council wants to remove the trees in the interests of road safety - a significant number of road deaths are due to vehicles going off the road and colliding with the trees each year. The French government is on a road safety campaign at the moment after belatedly realising that its road safety record is one of the worst in western Europe. Speed cameras and traps, clamp downs on drink- and drug driving, and hefty fines are having an impact (see www.frenchduck.co.uk/infrance.htm for details).But particularly out on the long windy country roads which we enjoy so much, the manic Frenchman driving at speed and with disdain for the safety of himself or others is still something I witness every year.
However, those plane trees, (said to have been planted by Napoleon to shade his marching troops from the heat of the midday sun - but that could just be a myth) are nevertheless quintessentially French, and could rightly be claimed as part of the French heritage.
Demonstrations took place recently outside Toulouse on the N88 road to Albi where there are plans to demolish tens of trees. The protesters from groups such as "Arbres et Routes" and "Amis du Terre" (Friends of the Earth) wrap the trees in blue and green paper to draw attention to the cause. The campaign is having some success - plans to remove trees on the N113 at Villefranche du Lauragais having been abandoned by the Highways Authority. The protestors claim that the solution should lie with changing driver behaviour rather than destroying trees! Vive la France!

For more info on France and French Travel see www.frenchduck.co.uk

Keywords: France, Travel, road, conservation

October 23, 2005

The French Market - food from Gascony

frenchmarket.jpgTHE FRENCH MARKET - A mouth-watering collection of recipes inspired by fresh, seasonal French market produce.

One of the real joys of France, from the rue Cler in Paris to the smallest village in the Midi is the French Market (OK not for its usually dire collection of polyester clothing, ladies' awful housecoats and the ocassional stall selling matresses) - but the wealth of really fresh good local produce, including vegetables which do not look like they have been factory produced and meat which has not been stifled in vacuum packaging. It is almost always a joy just to wander through, smell the cheeses, admire the careful presentation of the produce and enjoy the enthusiasm of the stallholders. Now Joanne Harris (author of Chocolat) and Fran Warde have collaborated to write a French Cookbook with a difference. This time they have gone to Gascony for their inspiration and into the world of the French rural market. The best ingredients in season, locally produced fruit, vegetables, wines and cheeses combine to make it a recipe for success. Nerac Melon with Floc, Foie Gras with Peaches, Summer Duck Salad and Roasted Stuffed Courgettes are only some of the recipes that will help recapture the tastes of summertime and the authentic French regional experience.

A couple of the recipes are available on the online Telegraph Wine site including Pumpkin and Bayonne Ham, Duck à l'Orange (sounds a bit 70s to me!) and Tarte Belle Helene!

Keywords: France, food, market, book

October 21, 2005

Undiscovered Franche-Comté

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An article in the Times Online is about a lesser-known part of France - the Franche-Conté and indeed whilst I consider myself to be well-travelled in France I have only been through the area once or twice in 30 years.
"It really is a bit like entering a richly endowed household via the pantry, because Franche-Comté, tucked beside the Swiss border beneath Alsace and north of the Alps, is a storehouse full of delectable foodstuffs. It is the source of France’s best-seller among appellation controlée cheeses, Comté, and of the unctuously superb winter and Christmas speciality, Mont d’Or, and it also provides much of France’s smoked hams and sausages – while at the same time keeping to itself a few curious regional specialities that you will not find anywhere else." For more info see http://travel.timesonline.co.uk/article/0,,21150-1825960,00.html

October 04, 2005

New Michelin Green Guide - French Wine Regions

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Michelin has recently published a new Green Guide title in English - "The Wine Regions of France" - a brand-new guide for anyone who has ever dreamed of touring the French vineyards and discovering more about the country’s traditional enjoyment of wine and cuisine. Fourteen tours cover each of the main regions in practical detail, leading you through the hidden heartlands and the great cultural capitals of French wine, introducing the wine-makers and their estates, and offering expert insights to add knowledge and enjoyment to your trip - see www.frenchduck.co.uk/books.html

October 01, 2005

Rick Stein's French Odyssey

RSFreOdy.jpgBBC2 - Rick Stein's French Odyssey series has just started at 8pm on Wednesdays (see www.bbc.co.uk) - travelling through South West France and the Languedoc by the Canal du Midi and indulging in real French Food and recipes, including duck and foie gras. His usual laid back style with a healthy enjoyment of rustic dishes, Must try the Station Buffet in Agen and the restaurant in Moissac! - see www.frenchduck.co.uk/books.html

Viaduc de Millau - new booklet from Richard Binns

viaduc de millau.jpgRichard Binns, the knowledgeable francophile and author of numerous guide books to France (French Leave, Hidden France, Bon Voyage) has a small booklet on a new route to the South of France using the Viaduc de Millau - called "Sun Run Supreme". The 665-mile SRS from Calais provides two alternatives: a fast run south (over 80% on autoroutes and dual-carriageways); or a lazy amble. You can select from three cost options: ‘toll-free’; ‘almost free’; or ‘frugal’ (about £15). The arrow-like run is the most direct route to the Med. The final 170 miles, often over 3,600ft-high, is an exhilarating A75 motorway mountain run. For more details see www.frenchduck.co.uk/travel/autoroutes.htm

New Ferry Route from 3 October 2005

A new UK-France ferry route has been anounced from Portsmouth to Le Havre with LD Lines - from 3 October 2005, 1 crossing each way daily - see www.frenchduck.co.uk/travel/ferry.htm

September 24, 2005

Flights to France - spoilt for choice

ryanair.jpgThere are now many options for getting to France from the UK by plane - budget airlines in particular offering a wide range of departure points and destinations. And, as most flights are 2 hours or less the lack of legroom and inflight catering is seldom a problem. We have listed 45 scheduled routes (excluding Paris) which shows the range of options now available - see www.frenchduck.co.uk/travel/flights.html