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The Independent (25 Aug 07) has a short guide to Toulouse (32 Haut-Garonne) by Simon Calder. By far the largest city in the Midi-Pyrenees it is a mix of ancient and very modern, French and Arab.

For me it is a great departure point for the whole of the South and South West – the Pyrenees, Canal du Midi, the vineyards of Gaillac and Fronton and to the east the splendours of Carcassonne. It has never felt an “intimate” destination like Cahors or St Emilion, but it does have an enviously varied cultural life and works well as a weekend destination.

One highlight for me has to be the Marche des Carmes, which is a real treasure trove of the very best of the produce of the southwest – duck, goose, foie gras, cassoulet……

The Marché des Carmes abounds with local produce: bread, fruit, vegetables and poultry (including vast quantities of foie gras de canard). It opens 8am-5pm daily except Sunday. Locals may suggest you buy crystallised violets from a confectioner; the city's link to the flower began when Napoleon's soldiers brought it back from Italy.

The picture above is of the Capitole in the heart of the city – now the home of the Town Hall and the Théâtre National du Capitole, this building is remarkable for its façade with its eight pink marble columns.

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Perhaps inevitably there is a Fete du Saffron every October (20th October in 2007) in Cajarc which includes a chance to visit a saffron field, a market selling saffron and other products which use the spice, including pasta, cheese, biscuits, jams and an aperitif. Local specialties include a Confit of Onions with Saffron, Mussels in Saffron - even a saffton-flavoured peach sorbet!! For more info see www.safran-du-quercy.com

Cajarc's other claim to fame, other than being the gateway to the upper Lot Valley and Figeac, is as the location for the film of the novel Charlotte Grayby Sebastien Faulks.

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In the southern Cotes du Rhone a series of Jazz concerts at vineyards is now available – sounds an ideal combination of sensual music, verdant surroundings and an opportunity to taste good wines. Furthermore as the autumn approaches the autumnal colours of the vine leaves can produce a wonderful symphony of red and brown hues.

On 1st September 2007 the venue is Domaine Berthet-Rayne at Cairanne (84 Vaucluse, Provence) one of the named Cotes du Rhone Villages. In the UK the Sussex Wine Company stocks this wine “Berthet Rayne's Cairanne is a rich spicy traditional blend of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre with much of the fruit coming from very old vines indeed.”

In October the venue is Visan one of the lesser-known village appellations to the north of Cairanne. Great Western Wine stocks Domaine de la Guitrady, Cotes du  Rhone Villages Visan AC – “The promising inky black colour is the introduction to a stunning bouquet of black fruits, violets and hickory. Rich and velvet smooth on the palate with complex layers of peppery flavours”

November the venue is back in Cairanne at Domaine Brusset – a domaine which receives high praise from Andrew Jefford’s The New France: A Complete Guide to Contemporary French Wine (Mitchell Beazley Wine Guides)

For dates see www.frenchduck.co.ukand details of the venues and artists see www.jazzdanslesvignes.com

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Nimes (30 Gard, Languedoc-Roussillon) like many towns and cities on or close to the Mediterranean coast, has a long tradition of bullfighting and many of their festivities are centred around the “corridas”..

Most Brits will find the idea very unappealling, but that is no reason to avoid the whole of these festivals, as they are but one element of the events, and what you will miss is a tremendous festive Mediterranean atmosphere.

13–16 September 2007 are the dates for the Feria des Vendanges (Wine harvest) A Feria is a feast day often associated with bulls in the south of France.

Anthony Peregrine in the Telegraph (22 Aug 2007) provides an excellent introduction and guide to the city of Nimes and its nearby attractions such as the Pont du Gard.

From the point of view of wine, Nimes lies on the boundary between the Provence, Languedoc and Rhone, which is also reflected in the style of the local wines. But the Costieres de Nimes AC is classified as part of the Rhone appellations. The grape varieties for the red and rosé wines are Syrah, Grenache, Mourvèdre, Carignan, and Cinsault. For the white wines: White Grenache, Marsanne, Roussane as well as Clairette, Bourboulenc, Maccabeo and Rolle.

Well worth a visit would be the Chateau de la Tuilerie just to the south of Nimes where Chantal Comte produces some excellent wines – a good tasting room experience is guaranteed – and they even have their own helicopter landing pad if you are planning to arrive in style!

For more info on Nimes see http://www.ot-nimes.fr/

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According to statistics issued by the Mutualité Sociale Agricole, around 47,000 grape pickers will work in the Beaujolais vineyards this year - that's almost the equivalent of the population of Macclesfield and more than the number of people employed in the French Navy.

More than 115 different nationalities will harvest the future 2007 Beaujolais vintage by hand* across the 22,000 ha of vineyards in the region. Although 85% of the pickers are French, the remaining 15% are a truly international group, with workers coming from Turkey, Poland, China, Russia, Albania, Brazil, Kazakhstan and Australia.
47% are under 25, 37% are women, and 90% are lodged and fed by the winegrowers, carrying on a tradition that has been in place for centuries. On average, one grape picker harvests 500kg of grapes per day.

For more info on Beaujolais wines see http://www.beaujolais.com

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The harvest should take place between mid-August and the first week of September. The vegetative cycle appears earlier than normal. Flowering took place without problems over a longer period than usual in most of the areas of the vineyard. Some minor coulure (non-setting of the fruit) has been noticed and a strong Mistral wind damaged some plots in June and July. General parasitic pressure has remained low despite some isolated problems. Mildew and oïdium have been controlled. Overall the state of the vineyard is good.

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This is the second time in less than 10 years that such an early harvest has happened in this region, the previous occasion being on 3 August 1999, one day later than this year. A mild spring and a rainy month of May accelerated the maturing process. According to first indications, Muscat 2007 shows an equivalent of 12% alcohol content with a sweet and aromatic nature. Producers have commented that this will allow them to make a fairly fresh white wine this year.

Rivesaltes signature wine is the Muscat de Rivesaltes AC, a Vin Doux Naturel (sweet dessert wine made by stopping the conversion of some of the sugars into alcohol by adding spirit alcohol to stop fermentation), which can be delightfully fragrant and perfumed oozing the grapey taste of the Muscat à Petit Grains grape (literally small grapes). Avoid cheaper versions though, which can be over-syrupy to my taste.

Also be careful not to confuse the Muscat de Rivesaltes AC with Rivesaltes AC which can be quite different. Muscat de Rivesaltes AC can only be made as a sweet white wine from Muscat à Petit Grains and/or Muscat d'Alexandria grapes.
Rovesaltes AC can be made from a wider variety of grapes - hence producing a wider range of styles: Grenache Blanc, Grenache Noir, Grenache Gris, Maccabeo, Malvoisie,and the two Muscats - producing wines varying in colour from pale yellow to deep gold, and from pale rosé to chocolate or crimson.

One of the best producers is Domaine CAZES, who also produce Côtes de Roussillon and Vin de Pays d'Oc wines - see www.cazes-rivesaltes.com
Winestore.co.uk in Perthshire stock Muscat de Rivesaltes AC from Domaine Cazes.
Individual Wines in Oxford stock a Rivesaltes AC from Domaine Cazes "100% Grenache Blanc sourced from 50 to 55 year old vines that produce a miserly 20hl/ha. Traditional addition of grape spirit at the beginning of fermentation to increase alcohol and maintain natural sugars, then the wine is matured for 22 years in seasoned oak casks. Only 1000 cases made annually." (£22.90 a bottle)

For more news on Muscat wines and the Muscats du Monde competition see www.spittoon.biz

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Fougerolles (70 Saone, Rhone-Alpes) is situated at the north of the Haute-Saône, at the foot of the “balloon” of the Vosges southwest of Alsace, reserves for itself the title of Pays de la Cerise – mainly for the production of Kirsch, which is a clear pure brandy made from cherries – not to be confused with Cherry Brandy which is a sweetened, flavoured version of simple grape brandy.

Kirsch is made from pressing the fruit, adding the ground cherry stones and allowing it all to ferment. The stones add a characteristically bitter note to the spirit, and also contain minute quantities of cyanide! The liquid is then heated in a still to distill the alcoholic spirit and then aged for a short time in glass “bonbons” or steel or earthenware vats so that the spirit remains colourless.

Often used as to provide an additional punch to desserts, it can also be taken lightly chilled as a refreshing after-dinner tipple – but preferably in small quantities.

This is one of those lesser-known parts of France – not really on any of the main routes to anywhere, and the proximity of the Vosges mountains limits a speedy transit of the region.  But it may well be worth visiting in early July for the annual Fete des Cerises which celebrates the beginning of the harvest – or in September there is an annual fair of Cherry Dougnuts (Foire aux Beignets de Cerises) and Kirsch tastings which sounds like fun. (held on 16 September in 2007)

For more info see http://www.otsi-fougerolles.net

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Understanding and appreciating the styles of cuisine in France can enhance the enjoyment of what you are eating (or cooking) – much like wine, where I find a little additional knowledge can helps me be more discriminating in my choices and combinations of dishes and wines.
Doug Stewart at www.france-property-and-information.com offers some insights into some of the nuances behind the rich variety of French Food

Regional influences
Each region of France has ingredients, recipes and style of cooking specific to that region. Although they may be exported to other regions of France (and the world), production is largely local and consumption is highest in the region of origin. For example, in Provence the food typically features olive oil, herbs and tomatoes; these are all locally produced and they feature in a surprising large variety of different recipes.
The evolution of regional cooking styles has been influenced by:
• Local availability. The French, a nation of gourmets, prefer to use local ingredients. Consequently, coastal regions (such as Brittany and Normandy, on the northwest coast of France) will favor sea fish and will use it more often and in more varied ways than inland areas. Likewise, areas where fruit or herbs grow easily, will incorporate these into their local cuisine.
• Neighbouring countries and immigration. Near the borders with other countries, the local cuisine incorporates certain dishes and ingredients of the neighbouring countries. It is not surprising to find Italian dishes near the Italian border. More notably, the French region of Alsace is similar to Germany in its food (sauerkraut is popular) and wine, partly due to it currently bordering on Germany and partly due to it having been part of Germany at various points in its history (the border has moved back and forth with various wars). In parts of the south which have a large North African immigrant population one can enjoy the cuisine which they have imported from their original countries.
• History and economic conditions. The culture, lifestyle and economic conditions over a long period of time have formed the development of local food traditions. The rich meat dishes and cream sauces of Burgundy are not only due to Burgundian excellence in raising cattle, but in large part to the economic prosperity of this region over several centuries. On the other hand, mountain regions excel in firm cheeses, which allow food to be preserved over the long and difficult winters, and can be produced from mountain livestock which historically were the main means of support for many families in economically limited areas.
Of course, throughout France one can find a range of dishes, both in restaurants and at home, which extends well beyond regional specialities. However, at the same time, the regional influences in terms of ingredients and style of cooking is marked. Consequently, for those who move to France, the choice of region will influence the types of food one will find.
Italian Influence
Culinary historians generally associate the development of high cuisine in France (as opposed to the existing rural traditions) with the marriage in 1533 of Catherine De Medicis (a Florentine princess) to Henry duc d'Orleans (who became King Henry II or France). At this point, France was not know for its food or food culture. Catherine brought an entourage of Italian chefs with her to France, who introduced to France a variety of dishes, food preparation and dining practices. Although France and Italy obviously have evolved very different food cultures, both before and since this contribution, much of France's current food culture can be traced back to this time.

Cooking styles
As discussed above, each region of France has its own distinctive traditions in terms of ingredients and preparation. On top of this, there are three general approaches which compete with each other:
• Classical French cuisine (also known in France as cuisine bourgeoise). This includes all the classical French dishes which were at one time regional, but are no longer specifically regional. Food is rich and filling, with many dishes using cream-based sauces.
• Haute cuisine is classical French cuisine taken to its most sophisticated and extreme. Food is elegant, elaborate and generally rich. Meals tend to be heavy, especially due to the use of cream and either large portions or many smaller portions. There is a strong emphasis on presentation (in particular, vegetables tend to be cut with compulsive precision and uniformity). The finest ingredients are used, and the meal is correspondingly expensive.
• Cuisine Nouvelle. This style developed in the 1970s, as a reaction against the classical school of cooking. The food is simpler and lighter. Portions are smaller and less rich; the heavy cream sauces of the classical approach are particularly avoided. Cooking is less elaborate and quicker, with more emphasis on local and seasonal ingredients.
• Cuisine du terroir. This focuses on regional specialities and is somewhat more rustic in nature. Local produce and food traditions are the main focus.
Each of these traditions is strongly represented in France, each having its supporters and specialist restaurants. At the moment, Cuisine Nouvelle is less popular than it was, while Cuisine du terroir has grown in popularity in recent years.
For more on French Food see Doug Stweart's site at www.france-property-and-information.com/easy-french-food-recipes.htm

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Our tastes in wine tend to be quite individual, and I always seek out those wines which stand out from the bland, branded crowd so often presented on supermarket shelves.

Hence my eyes sparkle a little when I find a wine merchant stocking something really interesting and different – one such recent discovery being Martlet Wines – as they stock one of my more obscure favourites:-

DOMAINE DES HUARDS, Cour-Cheverny AC   Cuvée Francois 1er 2002, Romorantin £ 8.25 The little known Romorantin grape is now exclusive to Cour-Cheverny. A favourite of Leonardo de Vinci, it produces a very individual wine. Dry with subtle fruits and a slightly “sherried” flavour.

This was one of the wines we imported at ALLEZ VINS! from Michel Gendrier at Cheverny (41 Loir-et-Cher, Centre) near Blois on the Loire. Made from old vine Romorantin grapes this is very dry and aromatic – and perhaps a bit of an acquired taste. Michel does also produce more approachable whites – such as the Cheverny AC Blanc, a delightful blend of Sauvignon and Chardonnay. Small quantities, and small demand – few customers had ever heard of it, so most sales were at tastings where it was either raved about or dismissed depending on your palate.

So good to find another adventurous wine merchant –  Martlet Wines also stocks a range of other top notch French wines – such as the wines of Mas de la Serranne in the Languedoc.

For more on Domaine des Huards see http://www.frenchduck.co.uk/huards.html

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The artist Margaret Loxton is very English, and very Yorkshire – as is her style, but she has neverthess produced some very atmospheric images of France, and particularly French rural life. With her buxom men and women it may be a style you love or hate, but these pictures are so French they could not be anywhere else.

She has a whole series of scenes, including wine-related ones such as the Pavement Café in Riquewihr (68 Haut-Rhin, Alsace) shown above, but also Nuits St Georges (Burgundy) and the Luberon (Provence).

Limited edition prints are available online from La Provence Collections (along with a host of other gift items and fabrics on a Provencal theme) – thet also have a shop on the Square at Stow-in-the-Wold, near Cheltenham, Glos.

If you don’t want a print, you can see some of pictures in her book

Travels Through Burgundy

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Few things beat a little local knowledge to point you in the right direction when visiting an unfamiliar region of France. John Scallan who runs a B&B in southern Burgundy reports:-

“Over in the Jura there are things to do. Particularly interesting is a guided wine-tasting through the wines of the Jura in historic Chateau Chalon.

Every Tuesday until 29th August, at 20:30, six vignerons bring one example of their work to a tasting evening. A Professor of wine talks you through the wines of the Jura, their individualities, quirks, and characteristics and how to taste them! How to recognise the alcohol content from swirling the wine around the glass, developing and recognising the aromas, and finally the taste. Once all the theory has been dealt with you get to taste the wines! Much chat, people in the audience being asked their opinion, what can they smell, and or taste in each of six different types of wine.

 The range of Jura wines is well covered. You'll start with a Cremant (Sparkling wine), go next to a Red, either Poulsard, Trousseau (you've not heard of those have you) or Rubis (Pinot Noir with Trousseau mix). Following that is a Chardonnay, as unlike a Chablis or Californian Chardonnay as is possible to find, thence to a Chardonnay/Savagnin (yes the spelling is correct) mix which starts you off on the typical Jurascian tastes. Next is the classic Chateau Chalon Vin Jaune. A white wine which positively mugs the unaware. Finishing with a Macvin (mix of Marc du Jura and grape juice).

The whole evening will take about 2 - 2½ hours and costs the princely sum of € 5! (2006 prices, and you get to keep the glass!)
Booking is advised from the Tourist Office in Chateau Chalon infos@hauteseille.com. Good French is definitely helpful but not totally necessary.”

For more info on the B&B in Burgundy see http://www.bandb-burgundy.com/

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Burgundy can be a bit confusing, especially when you get beyond the classic (and expensive) prime appellations of the Cote d’Or. Chablis is part of Burgundy to the north, but there is some debate about whether Beaujolais is part of the region to the south. In between are the sub-appellations of the Maconnais and Challonais, which are very much part of Burgundy but produce more affordable wines.

The key characteristics of most Burgundy wines is the predominance of Pinot Noir for red wines and Chardonnay for whites – although less noble grape varieties such as Aligoté do appear.

To confuse things further wines previously known as Macon-Clessé  and Macon-Viré AC have been combined into a new appellation called Viré-Clessé – being the two villages around which the vineyards are spread. The other famous wine from the region is the Pouilly-Fuissé (not to be confused with Pouilly-Fumé, a Loire Sauvignon.)

Hence I was interested to find the Andrew Chapman at Surf4Wine is now stocking a

Viré-Clessé AC  – made from selected parcels of Chardonnay grapes from various producers whose vines range from 15 to 50 years old. – Paul Boutinot Viré-Clessé AC, Reserve Personnelle 2004 (Burgundy) – it is usually a good sign when Surf4Wine stocks something French, as the list is dominated by many superb New World styles:

An oaky chardonnay - but so different in style to the overly-rich and fruity New World styles. This has a concentration of flavour and complexity that came as a delicious surprise. Indeed the oak is evident on the palate but the range of flavours, shere finesse adn style combine in to a delicious wine. Tangerine and orange feature along with a streak of citrus acidity, full buttery mouth-feel and a good long length.

This wine is available from Andrew Chapman at Surf4Wine (£7.25)

For more info on the appellation see http://www.vire-clesse.com/

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I have enthused about the wines of Gascony for some time, despite the fact that they have tended to remain somewhat unknown and certainly under-rated. So I was delighted to see Jonathan Ray in the Telegraph (04 Aug 07) writing about this area and its wines, and focussing on 2 producers which I have featured before on these pages and on Allez Viins!

Somewhat against the trend, the area is somewhat dominated by 2 larger -scale enterprises, which rather buck the easy stereotype that often equates big size with mass-produced, bland wines to satisfy undemanding palates.

The wines from this part of south-west France are becoming increasingly popular, thanks in no small part to two contrasting producers: the family-owned Domaine de Tariquet near Eauze and the co-operative Producteurs Plaimont, based in and around Madiran and Saint Mont.

Allez Vins! imported the wines of Plaimont for many years, as they produce excellent Vins de Pays (Colombard) and the Côtes de St Mont VDQS red, white and rosé wines – under the inspired direction of André Dubosc. Unlike other co-operatives at the time (late 80s/early 90s) they focussed on quality rather than quantity, and allowed themselves to be led and managed, rather than trying to keep every grower happy.

Their robust Madiran AC (Tannat)  and the sweet Pacherenc du Vic Bilh AC (Gros and Petit Manseng) are also worth trying.

Only a week or so ago we looked at Domaine du Tariquet where Yves Grassa and his family are producing some stunning little wines – full of lively fruit and characted.

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Whilst “fusion” and “world” cookery may be the current fashion, there can be no doubt that the French have made an enormous contribution to our understanding and appreciation of food. So it was good to find someone who writes knowledgeably and enthusiastically about French Food.

Much like wine, there have been (and still are) those who take it very seriously, and in so doing alienate many with their pomposity and rules. But as Doug Stewart at France Property and Information writes French food ranges in style from the beautifully simple to the wonderfully rich:-

When hearing the term “French food”, some people will immediately think of traditional French ingredients such as foie gras, famous cheeses such as Camembert or the world-renowned French wines. Others will think instead of the French cuisine and associated famous recipes such as Coq au Vin or Crêpes Suzette.

 

In fact, French food is both. The French passion for food has resulted in exceptional quality of ingredients, many of which (such as the wine and cheeses) can be a source of great pleasure without any preparation. The traditional French recipes and style of presentation add an extra level of enjoyment to this.

 

In both senses (ingredients and recipes), French food is extremely diverse, with only the Chinese having more variety. This diversity is due to a number of factors:

·         France has an extraordinary range of different geographies and climates, which support the local production of many different types of food. The combination of the Atlantic ocean, Mediterranean, several mountain ranges (including the Alps), major rivers and of course the size of the country has resulted in a wide range of micro and macro climates.

·         France’s long and varied history at the crossroads of continental Europe has led to the development of many distinct local cuisines and associated ingredients. In fact, it can be said of many ingredients that they are specific to their own small area in France and are produced nowhere else in France.

·         The French passion for food, which is the center of almost all social gatherings and their traditional 2-hour lunch break (often extending to 3 hours in the countryside).

·         The long history  of French cooking, which has resulted in the development of many styles, including the well known Haute Cuisine and Cuisine Nouvelle, as well as less refined approaches.

 

In France, meals range from the very basic, such as cheese and the traditional baguette (French bread stick), to very elaborate and refined affairs involving a dozen different courses and a range of wines consumed over several hours. Of course, for most people the latter type of dining is a rare treat. However, it is this more sophisticated dining which is often promoted by French restaurants outside France, giving many people the mistaken impression that French food is heavy and complicated. In reality, much of the French cuisine is simple, relying on high quality ingredients and loving preparation rather than sophisticated recipes.

 

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