Burgundy can be a bit confusing, especially when you get beyond the classic (and expensive) prime appellations of the Cote d’Or. Chablis is part of Burgundy to the north, but there is some debate about whether Beaujolais is part of the region to the south. In between are the sub-appellations of the Maconnais and Challonais, which are very much part of Burgundy but produce more affordable wines.
The key characteristics of most Burgundy wines is the predominance of Pinot Noir for red wines and Chardonnay for whites – although less noble grape varieties such as Aligoté do appear.
To confuse things further wines previously known as Macon-Clessé and Macon-Viré AC have been combined into a new appellation called Viré-Clessé – being the two villages around which the vineyards are spread. The other famous wine from the region is the Pouilly-Fuissé (not to be confused with Pouilly-Fumé, a Loire Sauvignon.)
Hence I was interested to find the Andrew Chapman at Surf4Wine is now stocking a
Viré-Clessé AC – made from selected parcels of Chardonnay grapes from various producers whose vines range from 15 to 50 years old. – Paul Boutinot Viré-Clessé AC, Reserve Personnelle 2004 (Burgundy) – it is usually a good sign when Surf4Wine stocks something French, as the list is dominated by many superb New World styles:
An oaky chardonnay - but so different in style to the overly-rich and fruity New World styles. This has a concentration of flavour and complexity that came as a delicious surprise. Indeed the oak is evident on the palate but the range of flavours, shere finesse adn style combine in to a delicious wine. Tangerine and orange feature along with a streak of citrus acidity, full buttery mouth-feel and a good long length.
This wine is available from Andrew Chapman at Surf4Wine (£7.25)
For more info on the appellation see http://www.vire-clesse.com/
