The Scotsman (2 Jun 07) has an interesting article on the Alsatian Pinot Gris - clearly differentiating it from the often bland, but increasingly popular Pinot Grigio from northern Italy. In a way that sums up Alsace wines - distinctively different with their steely dry Rieslings and rich Pinot Gris. Alsace probably is the benchmark for the perfumed and exotic Gewurztraminer - and the region also produces Pinot Blanc (a tad unexciting) and dry Muscat wines. They are also proud of their late harvest "Vendanges Tardives" wines which can only made from the same 4 grape varieties authorised for AOC Grand Cru (Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Pinot Gris and Muscat. The grapes are picked when over-ripe, often several weeks after the start of the harvest. A little red Pinot Noir is also produced (usually a little disappointing) and the sparkling Crémant d'Alsace can be excellent value.
The aromatic character of the grape is enhanced by concentration and the development of "noble rot" (Botrytis Cinerea).Uniquely in France, the wines are classified primarily by grape varietal rather then location - excepting for the "grand cru" and "lieu dit" (specific place) which can qualify the varietal name,
But back to Pinot Gris (or grey pinot)
The grape thrives in Alsace's warm, dry microclimate, where long dry autumns provide the hang-time essential for building up flavours. Old vines, high-quality terroir and very low yields (below 40 hectolitres per hectare) are also essential for a decent result.
I can recommend the Alsace wines of Emile Boeckel in Mittelbergheim (67 Bas-Rhin, Alsace-Lorraine) but sadly cannot find a UK stockist these days.
In Alsace you can find really excellent co-operative wines, such as the Cave de Turckheim - the wonderfully named Blotto Wines in Somerset stock their Pinot Gris amongst other varietals.
To download a list of wine festivals in Alsace see www.frenchduck.co.uk
