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June 29, 2007

FrenchWine

A good French winemerchant?

vinssaveurs.jpgSince retiring as a wine merchant and importer of French Regional wines, we have drunk well-enough from the modest cellar accumulated over 15 years of tasting and buying. But I confess to missing the buying and tasting trips which always provided delights, surprises and sometimes disappointments.Not least in meeting winemakers with their passions and idiosyncracies.
Until now I had never rated French wine merchants - the Nicolas chain probably one unexciting exception, and predominantly found in and around Paris.
But other independent wine merchants were often disappointing - usually a reasonable selection of local wines, but inevitably a predominance of fine Bordeaux, Burgundy and Champagne, Seldom much from elsewhere in France, and certainly no more than a token from outside Fran
A recent article bemoaned the absence of Languedoc wines on many French restaurant lists, and yet the wines of the Languedoc are gaining an increasingly impressive reputation for superb quality and great value for money - even in the higher price brackets.
I was therefore pleasantly surprised (and even a little envious) of a new discovery in the small village of Montcuq in the Lot departement (46 Midi-Pytrenees).
Now admittedly this area tends to attract a rather more cosmopolitan crowd than some other parts of the South West,but few businesses will survive if they rely only on northern European visitos and second-home owners. So inevitably the a proportion of the customers throughout the year will be local French.
And yes the Vins et Saveurs shop on rue de la Promenade (tel:05 65 35 57 15) does stock an impressive range of the local Cahors AC wines, but only a modest selection of well-choses Bordeaux and Burgundy - matched by an impressive selection of wines from elsewhere in France (little from outside France) - especially the Languedoc - such as the superb wines of Domaine Piccinini in St Jean de Minervois AC. Chateau l'Hortus in Pic St Loup AC, the Madirans of Chateau d'Aydie, Basque wines from Iroleguy AC plus Loire, Rhone, Alsace and Beaujolais - and all at reasonable prices.
Jerome, the genial owner clearly knows his stuff, and works on the same principle as I used at Allez Vins! - i,e, he only sells wines he likes!! He is very approachable. very knowledgeable and his English is good - so don;t hesitate to ask for his recommendations.

I'm tempted to ask for a job there - doing something I could enjoy in a quiet part of South West France - don't tempt!

Montcuq has a small but lively farmers market on a Sunday morning which is well worth a visit - fresh fruit and vegetables, local Agen prunes, Cabecou cheeses, Quercy Melons - even a couple of wine stalls selling Cahors and Coteaux du Quercy wines from small independent producers.

June 27, 2007

Languedoc

Pic St Loup - Languedoc's Wolf Mountain!

hortus.jpg
Searching for a decent warming red for this wet and windy summer, I found a bottle of Pic St Loup AC from the Coteaux du Languedoc - from La Bergerie de l'Hortus - and an excellent choice it was, demonstrating how powerful and well-made Languedoc wines can be.

North of Montpellier the summit of the Pic St Loup (Wolf Peak!) rises some 2000ft (658m) and dominates the landscape and provides some of the best wine-growing terrain in the whole of the Languedoc. The name "Pic St Loup" is something of a mystery - some argue that from a certain aspect the shape of the Pic looks like a howling wolf in full cry, neck extended, nose at the summit. others claim that a`giant wolf stalks the slopes in the winter guarding the dormant vines from predators - and the howling wind is actually a howling wolf! A further superstition (cleverly thought up by wine merchants probably) is that the absence of a bottle of Pic St Loup on the vignerons table will mean the wolf turns to stone and leave the vines unprotected!

The Bergerie de l'Hortus (shepherd's hut) is at Valflaunes (34 Herault, Languedoc-Roussillon) was created as a wine domaine in 1978 by the Orliac family, where they make red wines from the tannic Mourvedre, Syrah and Grenache grapes; and a few whites from Chardonnay, Viognier, Roussanne and Sauvignon Blanc.
The reds in particular get their great structure and complexity from the clayey limestone soils which are typical of the area, and the Cuvee Classique is aged in new oak casks for up to 15 months.

This is definitely a good wine area to visit and explore - Pic Wines specialises in Languedoc wines and are based in the area.

For more info on these wines - see Syndicat des Vignerons du Pic St-Loup at Maison de la Charte in St Mathieu-de-Treviers (34 Herault, Languedoc-Roussillon)

There is a path which leads to the cross at the top of the Pic St Loup if you're feeling energetic (probably before tasting the wines!) - but beware it is a steep climb, and the limestone can be slippery when wet. However the view from the top on a fine day will be well worth the effort.You can access the path from the village of Cazevielle.

June 24, 2007

Road

Driving and Shopping in France

alimentation.jpg The official in charge of French road safety has promised to increase the number of speed cameras to 2000 this year (2007), as the casualty figures have fallen quite dramatically since the crack down on speeding was initiated several years ago. France had one of the worst records for road safety, and tended to traat road accidents with a rather gallic shrug - but it meant that France was the "lanterne rouge" - the back marker - in European road death statistics. Now she is 8th out of 27, and aims to make up for the late start with some vigour. (The UK has 5000 speed cameras, of which 700 are in London)

However, by law, every fixed speed camera has to be signposted in advance - so if you see a sign saying "Controle Vitesse" take it seriously - as there is every chance that a speed camera will be positioned within the next kilometre.

However, there is seldom little warning (other than drivers coming the other way flashing their headlights) for an increasing number of mobile speed traps - very cunningly hidden by the gendarmerie with small cameras on the hard shoulder of autoroutes - and often with a police motorcycle waiting a few kilomtres down the road or at the next autoroute toll booth (peage) to flag down errant motorists. For foreigners there is the prospect of an on-the-spot fine of several hundred euros - if necessary including a visit to the nearest cash dispenser in the company of the gendarmerie!!

The road safety campaign gets into full gear in July and August when the roads are busiest (especially at weekends), And do remember that autoroute speed limits are reduced to 110 kph (69mph) when the roads are wet!

Whilst safety rather than environmental concerns drive the speed limit crackdown, caring for the environment is bringing about big changes in the use of packaging in France. For some years the hpermarket chain E.Leclerc has not provided plastic bags at the checkout - offering only the option of re-using old bags or purchasing a "Bag for Life". Now most of the other big chains have followed their example - so make sure you take your bags with you when you next go shopping in France,

Similarly rubbish disposal is now much more environmentally conscious - with different bins for glass, paper, recyclable materials etc - make sure you read the instructions on the bins - high fines are threatened for anyone not complying!

June 20, 2007

South West France wines

Le Malbec has arrived!

lemalbec.jpg
A helpful French wine label at last!

I have long been frustrated at the vagaries of French wine labelling regulations for Appellation Controllee wines,which arrogantly assume that the consumer knows that Sancerre is made from Sauvignon Blanc, Chablis from Chardonnay and Madiran from Tannat etc.

Hence a frisson of excitement to discover a Cahors AC (South West France) from one of the top Chateaux offering a wine called "le Malbec". Now admittedly some of the best Cahors wines are made from a blend where Malbec (locally known as Cot or Auxerrois) grapes dominate, but 100% Malbecs are becoming more fashionable. The wine in question comes from the Chateau de Chambert, previously stocked by Allez Vins! But this 100% Malbec is packaged and priced as a little downmarket - clear bottle, funky font and modern front label. Of course, what we see as the front label is technically the back label, as all the legal stuff about its status (Appellation Cahors Controllee) is on the front label (yes - I am confused too). But it is a pleasant little wine, and hooray for some consumer-friendly packaging (albeit in French).
A similar wine is produced by Georges Vigouroux - his Pigmentum (named for its intense black colour) has a bit more body and smoothness - stocked byAdvintage wines)
However, for a real contrast try to get hold of a bottle of Chateau les Hauts d'Aglan's Cuvee "A" - also made of 100% Malbec with no oak and no filtering - but rather than a "second" wine, Isabelle Rey-Auriat rightly has her wine at the very top of her range - rich,smooth and well-structured.
Of course, Argentina is now providing stiff competition for Malbec wines - my own experience suggests that the South American versions have wonderfully ripe upfront fruit, but lack the tremendous depth and complexity of the Cahors wines. In many ways they do not compete head to head - they really are quite different styles of wine. Personally I like the tannic structure of good Cahors, where the tannins have softened by continue to give the wine some backbone. But then, I have often been told that my tastes are a little "individual"!

If you are in the region (46 Lot, Midi-Pyrenees) then you can visit the Fete des Vins du Pays du Lot the Lot Valley wine festival held at the Chateau la Coste at Grezels, west of Cahors. There will be local Vins de Pays (red, white and rose) and local food products for tasting and buying - and you could join a vineyard walk of 8km (or a shorter 3km version) - on Sunday 24 June 2007.


Links -
Frenchduck.co.uk on Cahors
Chateau de Chambert
Cahors Wine website
Georges Vigoroux

June 19, 2007

Bordeaux

Something interesting in Bordeaux

terra burdigala wines from Bordeaux, FranceBordeaux can be overpriced and boring! If you separate out some of the finest and most expensive wines in the world, the remaining huge bulk of Bordeaux wines can have a tendency to rely on history, name recognition and reputation with a certain gallic arrogance. That has to be an outrageous over-simplification, but I have so often been disappointed with affordable Bordeaux that I have tended to look elsewhere in France to excite my palate and save my bank balance.
But inevitably something stirs, and the problem then comes for the few adventurous, passionate wine makers in Bordeaux to grab the attention of an increasingly sceptical consumer. Fancy packaging can help, but then I suspect that "modern" labels and garish colours can be just a marketing ploy which disguises an otherwise unremarkable wine.
So it was with some relief that I came across Terra Burdigala - Burdigala being the Roman name for Bordeaux. Certainly the packaging looks modern and funky, the website is swish, but does this necessarily imply that the contents of the bottles are any different?
Well, for a start this is not a traditional chateau operation. Two young Frenchmen, Stéphane Derenoncourt & François Thienpont, create wines by selecting grapes from chosen vineyards (sometimes from some of the less fashionable appellations) and determining precisely how the grape is vinified into wine - a sort of local verion of the flying winemaker crossed with the best negociant approach.

We launched this venture in the spring of 2001 and are involved every step of the way, from the vine to the bottle, so that our wines are a true testimony of our concept of Bordeaux: fruit, balance and pleasure

Another reason to believe that these Bordeaux wines stack up is that Andrew Chapman at www.surf4wine.co.uk is stocking them. Surf4Wine has a strong leaning towards the New World, so any Old World wine has to compete directly with some really exciting wines from Australia and South America to get a place on the list.

www.surf4wine.co.uk stocks half a dozen of these Terra Burdigala wines from a Bordeaux AC at £6.99 up to a St Emilion Grand Cru at £18.99.

Of course, the other interesting thing in Bordeaux this week is the bi-annual wine trade exhibition - VINEXPO - probably the biggest wine gathering with exhibitors and buyers from around the world. Probably not a good week for visiting French vineyards, as many winemakers will have deserted their domaines and have decamped to Bordeaux for the 3-day event! Also probably not a good week to try to find a hotel room in Bordeaux either!

June 17, 2007

Paris North East

Moules Moules and more Moules

St Valery-sur-SommeFrance prides itself on its seafood - and a Plateau des Fruits de Mer is a visual as well as a gastronomic tour-de-force. Moules Frites - or mussels and chips - is a more common feature on many menus - there is even a fast food chain "Leon de Bruxelles" which majors on Mussels!

A recent trip to the Baie de la Somme just west of Abbeville (80 Somme, Picardie) seems to offer the most extraordinary range of choice for your mussels - beyond the usual Moules Marinieres and Moules a la Creme.

The Hotel Les Pilotes at St Valery-sur-Somme offers an extraordinary selection of more than 40 different recipes - from Moules Anadalousie (from Andalucia); Moules au Champagne (in Champagne);Mussels in Ginger and Moules Lucifer to name but a few.

Personally I go for the Mariniere - poached in a light broth, which you eat messily with the fingers, dunking the french bread in the juices and served with a crisp dry white such as a Picpoul de Pinet from the Languedoc.

St Valery-sur-Somme is a pretty little port on the southern side of the Bay, more tidal riverside than seaside. On first acquaintance the view can seem just a muddy expanse when the tide is out, but it is a haven for birds and can afford some wonderful vistas and sunsets. There is a long broad boardwalk along the riverside for some gentle excercise, people- and bird- watching.

For the seaside you need to head a little further east to Cayeux-sur-Mer on the Opal coast - but whilst it has a spectacular shingle beach, the town lacks the charm of St Valery-sur-Somme. One option is to take the le Chemin de Fer de la Baie de la Somme steam train which runs round the Bay,from Cayeux to Le Crotoy on the northern banks of the Bay via St Valery-sur-Somme.

The Hotel Les Pilotes offers great views from some bedrooms and from the Restaurant where you can sample from the 40+ mussel dishes (and other seafood). It is a Logis de France, and is comfortable enough for a short stay,but neither the hotel nor restaurant could be regarded as "special" except for those views.

For more on St Valery-sur-Somme and the Baie de la Somme see www.saint-valery-sur-somme.fr" and www.somme-tourisme.com

June 12, 2007

France Events

Toulouse goes Spanish!

Rio Loco festival in ToulouseEvery summer the city of Toulouse (31 Haut-Garonne, Midi Pyrenees) holds a world music festival, and for 2007 the focus is on Spain - flamenco, guitar,dancing, salsa etc -

"Rio Loco attempts to reflect the variety and the artistic wealth of the invited country through a program where famous artists mix with young talents.
With 150 000 festival-goers in 2006 for Senegal, Rio Loco invites Spain for its 13th edition in a park on the banks of the Garonne river: open-air concerts, youth public performances, cinema, visual arts, gastronomy and craft "village". During the month of June, Toulouse will also live at the Spanish rate with exhibitions, performances, concerts, danse, readings, projections, afters... in all the city within around fifty cultural structures associated to the festival."

The festival runs from 15-24 June 2007 and provides yet another good reason for visiting this vibrant city - for more info see:-
Toulouse Tourism Office

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June 11, 2007

Loire

Wines from Domaine du Fontenay - Cote Roannaise

Departement Loire logoContrary to expectation, the département of the Loire in France is close to its source in the Massif Central in the Rhône-Alpes Region, rather than in the wide, gentle valley full of chateaux which we tend to think of. And rather strangely the wines of this area are classified as Loire Valley wines, when they really are quite distinctively different to the rest of the Loire Valley vineyards.
The main appellation is Côte Roannaise near the town of Roanne (42 Loire, Rhône-Alpes) to the west of the Loire river around the larger villages of Ambierle and Villemontais - see map
It is here that Englishman Simon Hawkins and his wife Isabelle purchased and developed his vineyard at the Domaine de Fontenay some 20 years ago.
The wines are all based on the Gamay grape, which tends to produce fruity but light reds and rosés. I visited the domaine over 10 years ago with a group of wine enthusiasts who were otherwise learning something of the French hospital system. It was really useful to meet up with a English winemaker, who could explain his (evolving) approach to wine-making and share some of the frustrations and successes of his new career. Simon was genuine and open to even the most naive of questions.
Cote Roannaise, Domaine du Fontenay, Cuvee l'AuthentiqueHowever, the wines we tasted then were OK, but a bit light in body and structure - and I had rather dismissed them as a pleasant if unexciting alternative to Beaujolais - albeit with the added value of knowing where the wines came from.
It was more recently that I came across the wines of Domaine de Fontenay again - and what a transformation awaited me. In the meantime both the vines had matured, and so had Simon's approach to wine-making. Out went many of the modern wine-making techniques with a return to a more traditional approach - so now he makes wines with no added selective yeasts, no sugar, no filtering and no additives; using a traditional press on low yields."We feel that there is a certain irony in that it is the Englishman who is using the methods that local growers’ grandfathers used and which they now consider to be outdated."
The best expression of this approach is the "l'Authentique" which is 100% Gamay "The grapes for this wine are always picked later than the rest of the crop as we are aiming to optimize phenological maturity, so as to be able to extract to our hearts content without the risk of herbaceous flavours creeping in. The wine is built around a structure of ripe tannins using a 20 day or so fermentation with a high temperature peak. This wine is matured until ready to bottle in the early summer . Particular attention is paid to airing the wine at strategic moments to maximise fruit flavour. We aim to produce a serious gamay with a long finish and direct fruit. Some earthy notes will emerge with bottle age."
I was genuinely suprised and impressed with this wine. It had depth and complexity of flavour, smooth in the mouth - a classy wine which far surpasses any Gamay I have tasted before - bearing little resemblance to the light, jammy Gamays I usually get to taste.
Full marks to Simon Hawkins - another example of someone passionate about his/her wine who aims to produce something distinctive and traditional, rather than just following the crowd and producing easily marketable, bland mass-market wines.

For more on Domaine du Fontenay (including Bed & Breakfast on the domaine) see www.domainedufontenay.com
In the UK you can buy their wines through 3DWines - and even own a row of vines!

June 7, 2007

France Books Guides Film

FrenchDuck - no groundless rumours!

Duck with Red Umbrella B&B at Celon - Le Canard au Parapluie RougeThe Merrian-Webster online dictionary has the English use of "canard" as its word of the day. Goodness knows why the poor old duck should be implied to mean "a fabricated report" or "groundless rumour". Be assured that FrenchDuck in both its .co.uk and .com versions does not peddle unfounded rumours, but attempts to share good information and advice about France, French Wine, French Food and Travel. canard • \kuh-NARD\ • noun

1 a : a false or unfounded report or story; especially : a fabricated report
*b : a groundless rumor or belief

Of course the other problem with the term is that if you search for "duck" on the news, it is mainly about English batsmen's scoring record - seems a shame that such a game bird which evokes great sentimentality from nature lovers, and is such a key staple of the diet of South West France has these connotations in English

NB the charming graphic is the logo for an English run B&B called Le Canard au Parapluie Rouge (The duck with red umbrella) near Argenton-sur-Creuse (see map) just off the N20 Autoroute to the South West - For more info see www.lecanardbandb.com.



June 6, 2007

South West France wines

Cahors wine on video

Cahors Chateau de Gaudou winesBeing an ardent fan of the Malbec wines of Cahors in South West France I am always delighted to find domaines which are innovative in the presentation of their wines, whilst more traditional in the way they are made. The French have a tendency to be very proud of their produce, and are wary of demeaning the history and tradition by adopting brash modern marketing techniques. But sometimes this means that excellent wines can be pretty impenetrable to the necomer, especially when it seems much easier to switch to a bottle with a more familiar name, an attractive label and informative backlabel. Chateau de Gaudou at Vire-sur-Lot (46 Lot, Midi-Pyrenees) has developed an attractive (non-gimmicky) website and included an 8-minute video which, whilst having a touch of natural French pomposity, provides an interesting and entertaining introduction to the vineyards and wines of Cahors and the Chateau de Gaudou itself.
Majestic Wine Warehousesstock the Cahors AC Chateau de Gaudou Cuvée Tradition 2003 ("Lots of ripe, black fruit with the Merlot rounding out the tannins to give a softer, more approachable appeal.") at £5.99

Vire-sur-lot is home to a number of the best Cahors Chateaux - e.g. Chateau du Cèdre and one of my favourites - Chateau Haut-Monplaisir. Leon Stolarski Fine Wines stocks their remarkable 100% Malbec cuvée "Pur Plaisir" (Opaque. Wonderful scents of bonfires and raw meat. Ripe terroir mixture. Deep vivid palate built on a core of smoky fruit. Soft tannic mass integrated into the finish. Brilliant oak integration. Excellent.” Andrew Jefford, Decanter World Wine Awards 2004. )

For more on the wines of Cahors see www.vindecahors.fr (in French) and www.frenchduck.co.uk (in English)

June 4, 2007

Languedoc

Two aspects of the Languedoc and its wines

AOC Languedoc logoAn article in the weekend press draws a strange contrast between the history and the current state of Languedoc wines. In the Independent (2 June 2007) John LIchfield reminds us of the turbulent and often violent history of the Languedoc wine country starting with the riots in the early years of the 20th Century when the wine business and the workers' way of life was severely threatened by the devastation of phylloxera. Narbonne, Montpellier and Beziers in particular witnessed rioting and the army militia being brought in to subdue the protestors.
It is tempting to dismiss all this as history, when the region was hugely dependent on wine, and where so much was produced. Every worker throughout France would have a glass of wine with his or her lunch, supper and often breakfast - especially in places where the water supply was suspect. It was cheap, rough and simple.
The 1970s and 1980s were also difficult times for the Languedoc vineyards - the arrival of the new World wines, a growing sophistication in wine drinking even amongst the French, and the threat of bulk imports from Spain and Italy led to a major restructuring of the vineyards - the EU paying many to uproot old, poor quality vineyards and encouraging diversification into other crops, tourism or light industry.
But elements of the rebellious nature remain, and even in recent years the vineyard workers have emptied tankers, set fire to various buildings and officers to highlight their campaign for higher bulk wine prices - i.e. the price for the surplus wine which often gets distilled into spirit alcohol. Along with French farmers, they are used to a significant degree of state support, and can get a bit nasty if they do not get what they want. Even in recent weeks it was deemed too risky for an EU bureacrat to visit the region to discuss their grievances.

And yet, at the same time the Languedoc is now producing wines of great character and good value - the innovation of the Vin de Pays d'Oc has led to a significant increase in the quality of good (and sometimes excellent) country wines, whilst at the middle and top end of the market the region has demonstrated that it can produce absolutely stunning wines in a range of different styles. Every appellation (and sub appellation) now boasts some superb winemakers - transforming previously rustic wines into really fine wines worth a place on any restaurant's list. Hence the success of merchants such as Pic WInes and Stone, Vine & Sun and producers such as Charles & Ruth SImpson at Domaine Sainte Rose as stocked by Leon Stolarski Fine Wines


June 2, 2007

Alsace Champagne

Alsace Pinot Gris wines

Alsace Pinot Gris Grand Cru Zotzenberg from Emile BockelThe Scotsman (2 Jun 07) has an interesting article on the Alsatian Pinot Gris - clearly differentiating it from the often bland, but increasingly popular Pinot Grigio from northern Italy. In a way that sums up Alsace wines - distinctively different with their steely dry Rieslings and rich Pinot Gris. Alsace probably is the benchmark for the perfumed and exotic Gewurztraminer - and the region also produces Pinot Blanc (a tad unexciting) and dry Muscat wines. They are also proud of their late harvest "Vendanges Tardives" wines which can only made from the same 4 grape varieties authorised for AOC Grand Cru (Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Pinot Gris and Muscat. The grapes are picked when over-ripe, often several weeks after the start of the harvest. A little red Pinot Noir is also produced (usually a little disappointing) and the sparkling Crémant d'Alsace can be excellent value.
The aromatic character of the grape is enhanced by concentration and the development of "noble rot" (Botrytis Cinerea).Uniquely in France, the wines are classified primarily by grape varietal rather then location - excepting for the "grand cru" and "lieu dit" (specific place) which can qualify the varietal name,
But back to Pinot Gris (or grey pinot)

The grape thrives in Alsace's warm, dry microclimate, where long dry autumns provide the hang-time essential for building up flavours. Old vines, high-quality terroir and very low yields (below 40 hectolitres per hectare) are also essential for a decent result.

I can recommend the Alsace wines of Emile Boeckel in Mittelbergheim (67 Bas-Rhin, Alsace-Lorraine) but sadly cannot find a UK stockist these days.

In Alsace you can find really excellent co-operative wines, such as the Cave de Turckheim - the wonderfully named Blotto Wines in Somerset stock their Pinot Gris amongst other varietals.

To download a list of wine festivals in Alsace see www.frenchduck.co.uk



June 1, 2007

France Events

France's Festival of Music

Fête de la Musique
On Thursday 21 June 2007 music will resound throughout France the with the annual Fête de la Musique when musicians are allowed to play in any public space in France, throughout the night. Both professional and amateur musicians provide free performances of all kinds of music, from French accordion to classical and more modern styles.

The musicians are asked to perform for free, and all the concerts are free for the public. It’s the reason why they are used to play in open air areas as streets and parks or in public buildings like museums, train stations, castles… Furthermore, the Fête de la Musique is a way to encourage the major music institutions (orchestra, operas, choirs, etc.) to perform outside their usual locations. This kind of institutions can also welcome other types of music. In this way it offers an opportunity to develop exchanges between city centres and their outlying areas, to offer concerts in hospitals or in prisons, to promote encounters and exchanges between young musicians and well-known talents.

For more info see fetedelamusique.culture.fr