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April 30, 2007

South West France wines

A Cahors AC wine from 1985

Cahors AC Chateau Saint Didier-Parnac 1985There were just 7 wines on our first ALLEZ VINS! wine list in 1987, one of which was Cahors AC Chateau St Didier-Parnac 1985. So it was a surprise that some old friends of ours had discovered one of those very bottles in their cellar but also with some trepidation that I opened it. The label looked suitably aged, but to be fair to my friends they are not great wine buffs, and there was little likelihood that the bottle had been kept in the best of conditions for 20 years. The cork was inevitably a tad aged but did at least come out in one piece (very slowly) and the nose, whilst not powerful, was at least not pungent. The colour was surprisingly red rather than brown (a good sign) and careful decanting avoided the worst of the sediment.
The wine was perfectly drinkable, but somehow like visiting an ageing relative you've not seen for 20 years, it was a bit frail and lacking in some rounded robustness. The fruit character remained but the complexity and depth of the tannins was missing.

Now I have always claimed that Cahors wines improve with some ageing - but in truth it is not often that I get the chance to try something like this at that sort of age. Especially as this is not the Chateau's top cuvée (which at the time was the Prieuré de Cenac) although 1985 was a good year. So although I would not recommend keeping such a wine for 20 or more years, it does give some confidence to the recommendation that well-made Cahors should be good for 10-15 years from a decent vintage. Always check with your wine merchant or the chateau.

The other wines on our early list were a Vin de Pays des Coteaux du Quercy (now a VDQS from the area between Cahors and Montauban); a couple of Alsace wines from Emile Boeckel at Mittelbergheim and some Beaujolais from Paul Beaudet. Quite fascinating that the Languedoc did not feature for some years, whereas I would expect it to be amongst the early choices if we were to start again!

As for Chateau St Didier-Parnac, this was really where Allez Vins! started - as wines such as Cahors, Cotes de Duras, Coteaux du Quercy etc were seldom seen in the UK in the 1980s. The Rigal brothers owned this and other domaines in some of the best parts of the vineyard at Parnac, in the Lot Valley west of Cahors.

Since the 1970s, Franck and Jacques RIGAL have been building up the family business by concentrating on the 135 hectares (310 acres) of their three great châteaux: Prieuré de Cénac, Saint Didier Parnac and Grézels
.
Their blend of 70% Malbec (also known locally as Auxerrois or Cot) and 30% Merlot with some barrel ageing produces a wine which retains it typicity whilst being quite approachable.
Now part of the huge JeanJean group since 2003, they remain one of the best Cahors producers.

In the UK Chateau St Didier-Parnac, Cahors AC (2003) is stocked by AVA wines in Northern Ireland (interesting, well-chosen list) and Whitebridge Wines (2001 vintage) in Staffordshire.

LINKS:-
Chateau Saint Didie-Parnac

RECOMMENDED READING:-
Paul Strang's Wines of South-west France
Stephanie Alexander's Cooking and Travelling in South-West France
Andrew Jefford's The New France: A Complete Guide to Contemporary French Wine (Mitchell Beazley Wine Guides)

April 27, 2007

France Events

Roses in Avignon

alter arosa 2007Avignon's Palais des Papes hosts a four-day exhibition dedicated to the rose from 16-20 May 2007. Subtitled "the roses you have never seen", thee show launches thirty new species of rose each year and there are conferences and exhibitions around the theme of the much-loved bloom. In the heart of Provence, Avignon (84 Vaucluse, Provence) is a vibrant historic city around the Pope's Palace (Palais des Papes).
The event is held in the magnificent surroundings of the Cloister of Benoit XII in the Palais des Papes, which stands as the mighty symbol of the church?s influence throughout the western Christian world in the 14th century. It is the biggest Gothic palace in all of Europe - see www.palais-des-papes.com

Note that this is a bank holiday weekend in France, as Ascension Day falls on Thursday 17 May 07.

A few miles north is Chateauneuf-du-Pape (literally the new palace of the Pope) which tended to be the summer home of the Pope and is of course rightly famous for its wonderful, rich red wines.
Links:
www.alterarosa.com
Chateauneuf-du-Pape wine site
Vaucluse Tourist office

April 26, 2007

South West France

Cheese Festival - Rocamadour

Rocamadour Fete des Fromages The village of Rocamadour (46 Lot, Midi-Pyrenees) , about 35 miles north of Cahors and the Lot Valley, is well worth a visit at any time - a medieval village perched high on the hillside of a small valley, strung out on the face of a sheer cliff - historically a place of pilgrimage (and on one of the Pilgrim routes to St Jean-de-Compostela). Nowadays it is a major tourist attraction, which unfortunately can get hideously busy in the height of the summer.
However on 27 May 2007 Rocamadour hosts its Cheese Festival (Fete des Fromages), which includes a Cheesefarmers' Market, competitions,demonstrations, music and other jollities. Over 40 artisan cheese makers will be there from "le Grand Sud" (the southern half of France) with pride of place being given to Beaufort and Reblochon cheeses from Savoie and the Alps.
Beaufort. is a large round semi-hard cheese made with the milk of the mahogany-coloured Beaufort cows, whereas Reblochon is a softer cheese made from the thicker, richer milk from the second milking of alpine cows.
Cabecou de Rocamadour CheeseRocamadour has its own AOC cheese - Cabécou de Rocamadour , a 100% goat's cheese, made with whole raw milk.

Since obtaining the AOC, the production of this famous little round cheese has been strictly regulated: no more than ten goats to the hectare, cheeses matured in the proper conditions in the place where they are produced, and above all, no chemicals added to the curds.
Product of a long-established tradition amongst the goat-herds of the Quercy Causses, Rocamadour cheese can be eaten young and fresh, older and drier, creamy, warm with salad or on a slice of walnut bread. Dry, with a touch of sharpness and acidity, this cheese goes perfectly with a Cahors wine.

LINKS
Rocamadour, Gramat & Padirac Tourist Office
about Rocamadour Cheese
RECOMMENDED READING

April 25, 2007

France Events

The biggest French duck !?

Loire Estuary Event posterWith their usual flair for artistic extravagance, the French are launching a massive summer art exhibition along the 25 miles of the banks of the Loire estuary between Nantes and St Nazaire this summer.
Although we tend to think of Nantes being at the mouth of the Loire (the longest river in France), there is another 40km until St Nazaire where the last bridge crosses the river before it enters the Atlantic.

From June to 1 September 2007 (and again in 2009 and 2011) the Loire Estuary Project 2007 will link St Nazaire and Nantes with a series of 40 art installations along the river bank (some even in the water) including a massive duck (25 metres high) experimental architecture, dramatic water features and a floating house, all of which can be viewed free of charge - or take to the river for a 3-hour boat cruise with audio tour.

Visit the website (below) for a good video of the stretch of river between these two locations.

LINKS
For more info see www.estuaire.info
Nantes Tourism
St Nazaire Tourist Office site for lots of maritime history

RECOMMENDED READING

Brittany Green Guide (Michelin Green Guides)

April 24, 2007

Rhone Provence wines

A southern Rhône wine tour - Tour 2

Tour 2- Beaumes de Venise, Vacqueyras, Gigondas, Cairanne and the Côtes-du-Rhône

After a gentle first day, this second outing is rather longer, but should be worthwhile. For here you will get a taste of essential Southern Rhône wines - and again pass though some great countryside and villages en-route.
An early-ish start is recommended to head east from St Remy on the D99 to Cavaillon - an otherwise unremarkable Provencal town, excepting for its deserved reputation as the centre of melon production!

(If you have time, you could make a small detour before reaching Cavaillon and the A9 autoroute - to another interesting wine and olive domain - Domain de Valdition - take a right (head south) off the D99 about 10km from Saint Remy-de-Provence to Eygalières, and .then left (east) onto the D74 towards Orgon - the domain is a few kilometres along on the left) - here they have some very well-made classy wines (despite being classified as Vin de Pays des Bouches du Rhône) - in a delightful chateau and tasting room. Unfortunately the website is over-engineered and does not work properly - but otherwise fully recommended - you could always do this as a short side-trip from St Remy if you have an hour to spare some other time)

From Cavaillon you need to find the D31 heading north towards Carpentras - the road network and signposting is not brilliant, so I would suggest going through "Centre Ville" as otherwise you may find yourself heading for Avignon, which is not be advised.
The D31 takes you past L'Isle-sur-Sorgues - a delightful town surrounded by the river Sorgue - and now famous as an antiques centre - excellent Provencal market on Thursday and Sunday mornings, although Sunday now gets very crowded with a major Antiques and Bric-a-Brac market. Worth a visit - but time may not allow on this day's itinerary.

beaumes de venise bottleContinue on the D31 (ignore a right to Carpentras) but keep on through Monteux and Sarrians towards Vacqueyras. The D31 becomes the D21 which you need to follow through to Beaumes-de-Venise. Turn left(north) onto the D7 towards Vacqueyras, and on the outskirts of the village you will find on your left the Co-operative of Beaumes de Venise. It is admittedly not an inspiring sight, but it is a good place to get a sense of these wines, the prices are good and the staff are helpful. Beaumes-de-Venise is best known for its very delightful dessert wine made from Muscat, sometimes in a distinctive bottle shape. However, don't overlook the fact that Beaumes-de-Venise is one of the Côtes-du-Rhône Villages AC and produces some excellent reds and rosés as well. Opposite the winery you'll see the Dentelles de Montmirail - the jagged mountains which dominate this part of the Vaucluse as an extension of the Mont Ventoux range. "Beaume" apparently means grotto or cave. The "Venise" part of the name does not refer to Venice, but to the town Venasque (84 Vaucluse, Provence) which was previously the local capital of the area known as the Comtat Venaissin.

Back on the D7 head on to the village of Vacqueyras, and continue beyond the village on the D7 Route de Bollène. You will pass a right hand fork to Gigondas, but continue on the D8 for a few hundred yards where you will find Domaine la Fourmone on your right. This is to my mind one of the best wineries in the area, featuring Côtes du Rhône AC, Vacqueyras AC and Gigondas AC - and a Muscat de Beaumes de Venise AC - Cuvée Souleu. I am not alone - Robert Parker awarded their Gigondas 93/100 in 2007! Madame Combe is very welcoming to wine enthusiasts, and you will be treated to an excellent tasting in their small tasting room. If you like BIG reds, then you must try the Gigondas AC l'Oustau Fauquet - Cuvée Cigaloun has been my favourite - very rich and intense, but probably not to everyone's taste.
As an added bonus Marie-Therese Combe also has an art gallery and studio on the Domaine with some excellent acrylics.

(One option could be to make this a 2-centre trip, as in Gigondas there is an excellent hotel at Hotel Montmirail (no website) Téléphone : 04 90 65 84 01 Fax : 04 90 65 81 50 E-mail : hotel-montmirail@wanadoo.fr )

From Domaine la Fourmone I would suggest heading north on the D8 to Cairanne - another Co-operative Wine Cellar just after the main road takes a sharp left turn in the village - Cave de Cairanne is on your right. Again a good selection of good value wines from this Côtes du Rhône Village AC - their Reserve red is silky and smooth.

Beyond Cairanne on the D8 for a couple of kilometres take a left (south) on the D978 towards Orange and then a left after a few miles onto the D41 signposted Camaret. In the village follow signs for Vaison-la-Romaine and as you leave the village watch for a sign to the left for rue Buisseron and Domaine du Vieux Chene.. Here Jean-Claude Bouche produces organic wines on a modest scale - but really excellent wines. We discovered the domaine many years ago when staying in the region, but were unable to import it as he had an exclusivity deal with another UK wine merchant. Jean-Claude and his wife Beatrice are charming and modest people who will give you a warm welcome in a rather sparse tasting room - try the Cuvée La Haie aux Grives (hedge of thrushes) Côtes du Rhône-Villages AC red.
If you are now heading towards late afternoon, then your journey back to St Remy-de-Provence holds a special treat. From Camaret head east back towards Vacqueyras, then south on the D7, Just after the village take a right onto the D52 then D21 to Sarrians, where you rejoin your outward route. Head south on the D31 through Monteux and on to Velleron. Here, just beside the D31 a farmers market (Marché Agricole) is held every evening from 18h00 from April to September (except Sundays and holidays), Predominantly small grower and producers of fruit, vegetables, poultry, olive oil and other goodies sell their produce often from the back of their cars - you will not find fresher unless you go to the farm.

Return south on the D31 to Cavaillon and then west on the D99 to St Remy-de-Provence.

Summary: About 140km (90 miles) travelling distance - about 2½ hours time.
CONTACT DETAILS:-
Domaine de Valdition Route d'Eygalières, 13660 Orgon; T: 04 90 73 08 12 F: 04 90 73 05 95 E:contact@valdition.com
Domaine la Fourmone Roger Combe et Filles, Route de Bollène, 84190 VACQUEYRAS; T: 04 90 65 86 05 F: 04 90 65 87 84
Les Vignerons de Beaumes de Venise Quartier Ravel, 84190 Beaumes-de-Venise T:04 90 12 41 00 - F: 04 90 65 02 05
Cave de Cairanne route de Bollène, 84290 Cairanne; T: 04 90 30 82 05; F:04 90 30 74 03
Domaine du Vieux Chene Jean Claude & Béatrice Bouche, Rue Buisseron
84850 Camaret; T:04 90.37.25.07 F:04 90.37.76.84

A southern Rhone Wine Tour - Introduction
A southern Rhône WIne Tour - Tour 1- Baux-de-Provence
A southern Rhône WIne Tour - Tour 3 Lirac, Tavel and Chateauneuf-du-Pape

April 23, 2007

Rhone Provence

The biggest Lavender Party ever - Montelimar!

lavender provenceMontelimar (26 Drome, Rhone-Alpes) may be best known for its nougat, but every July it binges on Lavender with its Colours of Lavender Festival "Montélimar Couleur Lavande" - from 21-22 July 2007.

The fifth edition of this Festival of Lavender and market of local flavours and lavender scents : a whole range of "lavender-based" products! Distilling of both lavender and hybrid lavender will be carried out the traditional way and a procession of floral floats will enliven the Sunday morning on the 22nd of July. New! A real artist's studio profiled against a virtual field of lavender. The biggest lavender party ever! (40.000 visitors)

Montelimar tends to be another of those places which you bypass on the autoroute heading north or south (just off the A7 between Orange and Valence) and it does not immediately tempt you to visit. However, there are a number of interesting events such as the Lavender Festival throughout the year - including the Garden Festival (Montelimar Cote Jardin) on 17 May 07 - with a particular focus on the local olives and olive oil from Nyons (26 Drome, Rhône-Alpes) and on the weekend of 28-29 April 2007 the Pottery Festival (Montélimar Terra Potiers) - so maybe it would be worth a little detour.

For more info see www.montelimar-tourisme.com

For a wealth of lavender in the UK - see woldswaylavender.co.uk

April 22, 2007

France Events

Festival of Wood!

mountain biking in Les Gets, Haute SavoieUp in the Alps, the village of Les Gets (74 Haute-Savoie Rhone-Alpes) has and a rather different event this summer (6-8 July 2007) with a festival of wood - very suitable as part of a European celebration of Mountain and Forest! Between Lake Geneva and Mont-Blanc, at the heart of the region known as Les Portes du Soleil, Les Gets (1172 m – 2002m) is both a winter and summer resort.

Part of the village's identity, wood is given a place of honour every 2 years as part of the "Billes de Bois" wood festival, a festive cultural event that features a wide-scale of entertainment based on mountain forests and wood, including entertainment and workshops for children, events for the public and street shows, art and crafts, wood exhibitions, wood-cutters competition.

A "bille" is a log apparently! This area is a paradise for walkers and moutain bikers (VTT- Velo Tout Terrain, or all-terrain bike) and of course winter sports. Their website also suggests its a good place for Golf, but looking at the landscape it might be quite a challenging course!

MORE INFO
Les Gets Tourist Office

RECOMMENDED READING:-
French Alps (Michelin Green Guides)
Walking in the Haute Savoie: North (South of Lake Geneva) (Cicerone Mountain Walking)

April 19, 2007

Ferry

New Cross-Channel Ferry Route

LD Lines has launched a new daily summer link – running from 1 May to 30 September – connecting Newhaven and Le Havre.
LD Lines claims that Newhaven is the closest channel ferry port to London, which maybe technically true, but access is not as easy as Dover, and I suspect journey times are much the same.
Le Havre (76 Seine-Maritime, Normandy) is however well-situated for fast access to Paris, Rouen and Normandy - and with the extended autoroute network the Loire Valley is easily accessed by the new A28 down to Alencon and Le Mans and then on to Tours, Angers and the South West.
Autoroute access westwards is good with the extended A84 autoroute now running through to Rennes followed by the fast dual-carriageway N137 down to Nantes or the fast N12 through to Brest.

The crossing takes place on board an extremely quick and comfortable new ship – the Seven Sisters – chartered from our sister company Transmanche Ferries.

The crossing takes 5 hours (all local times):-
Daily from Newhaven at 12h30 arriving at 18h30 in Le Havre
Daily from Le Havre at 20h00 arriving at midnight in Newhaven

LD Lines also run a service from Portsmouth to Le Havre.

Tour Perret in AmiensLe Havre is to my mind something of an eyesore - probably because I really do not like masses of concrete, which was all the vogue in the 1950s. Le Havre was devastated in the Second World War and was totally rebuilt by Auguste Perret, who was also responsible for another of my pet hates - the stark Tour Perret in Amiens, which to my view seriously detracts from a splendid Gothic Cathedral which should be the focal point of the skyline. But what do I know, as Perret's Le Havre is now designated as a Unesco World Heritage Site!!:-

The site forms the administrative, commercial and cultural centre of Le Havre. Amongst many reconstructed cities, Le Havre is exceptional for its unity and integrity. It combines a reflection of the earlier pattern of the town and its extant historic structures with the new ideas of town planning and construction technology. It is an outstanding post-war example of urban planning and architecture based on the unity of methodology and the use of prefabrication, the systematic utilization of a modular grid, and the innovative exploitation of the potential of concrete.

LINKS:-
LD Lines
Unesco World Heritage Site
Le Havre Tourism

RECOMMENDED READING:-

The French CafeThe French Cafe

Brittany Green Guide (Michelin Green Guides) Brittany Green Guide (Michelin Green Guides)


Normandy Green Guide (Michelin Green Guides)Normandy Green Guide (Michelin Green Guides)

April 17, 2007

FrenchFood

Le Petit Camembert

paris camembert cycle race logo17 April 2007 sees yet another French cycle race as the season gets into its swing. This time it heads out west of Paris to the town of Vimoutiers (61 Orne, Normandy). The race is now known the "Paris-Camembert"m, as despite being a small and otherwise undistinguised village, the name of the cheese carries a bit more cachet than Vimoutiers. The race is sponsored by the Camembert dairy of Fromagerie Lepetit, as it has been for the last 64 years! The 200km circuit passes through delightful countryside with a couple of circuits around Vimoutiers - and does actually go through the village of Camembert a few kilometres to the southwest.(see map)

camembert cheeseAlong with the Brie, Camembert is probably the best known French cheese, and is similar in style being a soft cows milk cheese with a rind. Brie comes from the area south and east of Paris, whereas Camembert is from the west. It was created during the French Revolution in Normandy with its mild climate and lush pasture and those typical black and white cows! The invention of the wooden Camembert box in the 1890s made it easier to transport and handle, and being in smaller rounds than the tradtional Brie it is more often bought as a whole cheese. The traditional, full favoured Camembert can be made from pasteurised or unpasteurised milk (the latter thought to be richer in taste) and has a rich, buttery taste, and a characteristic lactic flavour. Choosing a perfect Camembert cheese is quite a skill - test for a slight springiness to the texture and a soft white mould on the rind. Inside it should be a creamy yellow with the centre just slightly ligher in colour and a little firmer. Best of all buy from a cheesemonger who knows his/her cheeses!

Links
Fromagerie Lepetit has a great little website - but only in French!
Vimoutiers Tourist Office has info on the region and the race

RECOMMENDED READING
Normandy Green Guide (Michelin Green Guides)
French Cheese (Eyewitness Companions)

April 14, 2007

Rhone Provence wines

A southern Rhone wine tour - Tour 1

Mas Sainte Berthe Les Baux de Provence ACSt Remy de Provence and Les Baux de Provence
If it is summer, then it is advisable to make an early start - for although the distances to be travelled are not huge, the afternoon sun and heat can inhibit your tasting faculties - and besides the freshness and clearness of the morning air on a good day can really bring out the best in the short journey over the Alpilles towards Les Baux de Provence.
Heading south out of St Remy-de-Provence on the D5 (signposted Maussane-les-Alpilles) the road climbs quite steeply and dramatically to cross the Alpilles mountains - but the road is wide and well-surfaced. En route up the climb you will pass the roman remains of Glanum which may be worth a separate visit .
As you come down the other side of the Alpilles, (and before the right turn onto the D27 towards Les Baux) you will pass the entrance on the right to Mas de la Dame one of the best Baux de Provence vineyards - we worked with them for several years, but they hit an inconsistent patch in the mid 90s. - we always enjoyed their Cuvée Gourmande red in the distinctive-shaped bottle. Well worth a visit, but if you only do one Baux de Provence vineyard visit we'd suggest you carry on a few hundred more metres and take the right onto the D27 signposted to Les Baux de Provence.
Less than a kilometre along the D27 (and before you reach the hill climb up to the village) take a left signposted to Mas Sainte Berthe our favourite vineyard in the region. The wines are superb across the range, and they have their own olive oil, tapenade etc on sale. The winemaker, Christian Nief, originally from Burgundy, is both affable and professional, and the tasting room is well laid-out.

A 30-minute signed walk, accessible to all, starts from the cellar, leading you through vines, scrubland and olive groves... for a tour of the stunning landscape. As you follow the trail, information boards tell you all about the various grape varieties and describe the annual tasks carried out in the vineyard.

The landscape and views are superb so this makes for a very good stop.
Les Baux de Provence is a medieval village perched high on the hillside - well worth a visit, but in the summer visit early, before the place gets swamped with visitors.
From Les Baux I would head on south to Mausanne-les-Alpilles - a sleepy litle Provencal village, but a good place to stop for refreshment or lunch - can recommend L'oustaloun in the Place de l'Eglise - good and very provencal menu - lots of olives, Camargue lamb and I have vague memories of a dish which combined chocolate and tapenade!??
The other reason for going to Maussane is that there are several olive mills in the village, and although the harvest is not until late Autumn, you can see something of the process and taste and buy some oil and olive products - There is Coopérative Oléicole de la Vallée des Baux at Moulin Jean-Cornille on the outskirts of the village.
From Maussane head west beyond Paradou on the D17, taking the D33 on the right (before Fontvielle) signposted Tarascon. At Saint Gabriel fork right onto the D32 towards St Etienne du Grès Just beyond the village take a right onto Avenue Notre Dame du Chateau which becomes the "Vieux Chemin d'Arles", About 1km along this round you will find the Domaine de Travallon which offers a variation on the local wine styles. Your journey will have taken you across and around the Alpilles mountains, and this domain is on the north side with north facing vineyards. Hence the climate is a little less extreme. But this does mean that some of the tradtional grape varieties such as Mourvedre and Grenache have some difficulty in reaching full maturity. Hence the owner, Eloi Durrbach, planted easier ripening vines such as Cabernet Sauvignon, much to the "horreur" of the locals. As a result he was forced to label his wines as "Vin de Pays des Bouches du Rhône", but have no doubt that despite the lower status, these are great wines - and very interesting combining Bordeaux's Cabernet Sauvignon and the Rhône's Syrah!
From here just continue along the road into St Remy to complete your day - a gentle and enjouable day with varied landscapes and wines (only about 25 miles travel 40 minutes driving) - and back in St Remy in time to enjoy a stroll or an aperitif!

CONTACT DETAILS
Mas de la Dame route départementale 5. 13520 les Baux de Provence
T: 04 90 54 32 24 F: 04 90 54 40 67
Mas Sainte Berthe; 13520 Les Baux-de-Provence T: 04 90 54 39 01; F: 04 90 54 46 17 E:info@mas-sainte-berthe.com
Coopérative Oléicole de la Vallée des Baux Moulin Jean-Cornille, Rue Charloun-Rieu, 13520 Maussane-les-Alpilles ; T : 04 90 54 32 37 F: 04 90 54 30 28
Domaine de Trevallon, SCEA Domaine Trevallon. chemin Romain Arles a St Rémy 13103 Saint Etienne du Gres T: 04 90 49 06 00 F: 04 90 49 02 17


Links:-
A southern Rhone wine tour - Introduction
A southern Rhone wine tour - Tour 2 Vaqueyras, Gigondas, Beaumes de Venise and Cairanne
A southern Rhone wine tour - Tour 3 Lirac, Tavel, Chateauneuf-du-Pape

April 13, 2007

France Travel

Taking the car or flying to France

In the Telegraph's Money Section (10 April 07) there is a useful article by Teresa Hunter looking at the economics of taking your car to France compard to taking a budget airline flight.

The cost of driving to your destination will be affected by local petrol prices and tolls. According to the AA, unleaded petrol is slightly cheaper than Britain's 90p per litre in France (85.5p), Italy (87.5p) and Spain (71p) but more expensive in Germany (92p), although these prices will fluctuate. Diesel, at 74p in France, 79p in Germany, 82p in Italy and 65.5p in Spain, is considerably cheaper than the 92.7p you will typically pay in Britain.

The AA estimates the mileage from London to Bordeaux at 620, so using local petrol prices and average petrol consumption the trip would cost £151.71 in petrol or £105.33 in diesel. However, motorway tolls would amount to £45.43 each way, pushing up the cost by a further £90.86. The return journey would therefore set you back £242.57 in a petrol vehicle and £196.19 in a diesel.

As the article points out, the calculations are not straightforward when you take into account costs of the ferry or tunnel, fuel, motorway tolls, breakdown insurance, depreciation and possibly overnight hotel costs en route. But then airline prices are not exactly what they seem - the headline price can be doubled or more with the addition of various "admin charges" and taxes, including the infamous Air Passenger Tax which the puritanical Mr Brown has levied on every journey. Then there is the cost of getting to/from the airport, parking and transport at the other end, be it car hire, taxi or public transport.

Personally I hate the experience of flying, especially for short haul, when the hassle and time to get through the airport is often longer than the flight itself. I detest being treated like sheep or cattle in the terminal, especially in these days of heightened security. And once on board the plane it is invariably uncomfortable and you are literally a captive audience for the cabin crew to pester you with expensive food and drink, duty free goods or lottery tickets.

I usually choose the car, despite the costs and the longer journey times. I can still get a sense of adventure waiting to board the ferry at Dover, knowing that I have some control over my route and who I share the journey with. Besides, some of the best moments in France have been when we have diverted off the main route, followed a "Centre Ville" sign rather than the vague and circuitous "Autres Directions" and "Toutes Directions" signs - coming across a market, or a wedding or some little local festival - or finding some idyllic spot for a picnic of local produce. Besides driving in France (with the exception of Paris) is usually quite enjoyable and the autoroutes are much less congested and fraught than our motorways. But probably the main reason is the ability to bring back several cases of wine bought from the cellar of a small winemaker - and the memories which will go with every glass.

Maybe the train is a decent compromise - as long as you start from London or Ashford - it is fast, cheaper than the car (and much cheaper in France) and you get to city centres without all the hassle of airport terminals and transfers.

LINKS:-
Daily Telegraph article
Cheap4Ferries offer a best price promise on all cross-channel ferry operators
Rail Europe for train tickets and timetables for French destinations
Direct Line for European Breakdown and Travel Insurance

April 12, 2007

Wine Festivals

Major Bordeaux Wine Festival

Grands Amateurs de BordeauxIf you are a serious wine lover, then the city of Bordeaux is the place to be from 12-13 May 2007.


The Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux invites you to spend a weekend meeting the men and women behind the Grands Crus de Bordeaux.
An exceptional event: the Grands Crus will provide a warm welcome to Grands Amateurs, offering them the opportunity to taste "just like the experts".
Meeting the people behind the wine: this weekend offers an ideal occasion to discuss with representatives of the famous châteaux of Bordeaux in a relaxed, friendly atmosphere.A treat for the senses: discover new taste sensations and share in the mystery of Bordeaux.
A trip combining tradition and modernity: become acquainted with the expertise and quest for excellence that have always been a feature of Bordeaux.

NB: The French term "Amateur" means "lover" (from "amour") rather than inexpert, with the meaning that someone does something more from love than duty or profession. Hence I am sure there are wine trade experts who would also be quite happy being referred to as "amateurs" in France!

All the big name Bordeaux Grand Cru Chateaux will be there offering tastings of their wines at a Grand tasting on the Saturday along the Quai des Chartrons by the river - where all the old wine merchants and negociants were based. Tickets for the tasting cost €53 - which is less than an equivalent tasting in London with fewer wines on offer!!! You need to book in advance at http://www.ugcb.net/commerce/wga/programmeEN.html
In the evening there is a series of grand dinners held in various chateaux around Bordeaux - the cost includes transport from the city centre to and from the selected chateau! Sounds positively extravagant.
On the Sunday most of the major Chateaux have open days and there are conducted tours of the appellations of St Emilion, Sauternes, Graves and Medoc - transport and lunch included.

All this sounds quite wonderful and a superb way of learning and tasting more of the great chateaux of Bordeaux - and it need not be expensive as an all day pass to the Chateaux on the Sunday will only cost €15.00 - and gives you access to up to 40 of the major Chateaux!! And that itself is great, as some of the big Chateaux can be a little sniffy about "visitors" whilst others treat everyone like a tourist rather than wine lovers. On this day the welcome should be good - especially as the ticket proceeds will be going to charity.

Links:-
Full details on the Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux website
Bordeaux Tourist Office

Recommended Reading
Dordogne, Bordeaux and the Southwest Coast (Eyewitness Travel Guides)
Wine Regions of France Green Guide (Michelin Green Guides)
Wines of Bordeaux (Mitchell Beazley Wine Guide to the Wines of Bordeaux)
Bordeaux Chateaux: A History of the Grands Crus Classes 1855-2005

April 11, 2007

France Events

Slow food and wine in Montpellier

Slow food and wine at MontpellierThe slow food movement and the wines of the Coteaux du Languedoc come together in a celebration "the origins of taste" at Montpellier (34 Herault, LanguedocRoussillon) from 13-16 April 2007
This savoury trip to re-discovering food includes several events : International Markets, Taste Workshops (reservations required), a showcase with 800 wines for tasting, and the new Eating Slow space.
For all that Montpellier is in the heart of the Languedoc, this is a modern and lively city which is well worth a visit - the fact that it is twinned with Glasgow and Barcelona gives you an idea of its style!
But it is also the capital of the Languedoc wines - an impressive and increasingly high quality range of wines from the region - Coteaux du Languedoc and Vins de Pays d'Oc come from most parts of the region, whilst smaller appellations such as Pic St Loup, Picpoul de Pinet, St Chinian produce very distinctive styles.
For a good selection of wines carefully selected by people who know the region well see Pic Wines

Links:-
Montpellier Tourist Office
Slow Food and Wine Festival
Recommended Reading:-
Languedoc Roussillon Tarn Gorges Green Guide (Michelin Green Guides)

Oz Clarke's Wine Companion: South of France : Southern Rhone, Rovience, Languedoc-Roussillon : Guide (Oz, Clarke's Wine Companions Series)

April 10, 2007

Rhone Provence wines

A southern Rhone wine tour - Introduction

Last year we were asked to propose an outline for a short wine tour in the southern Rhône Valley. This is an area we know well and like - and it is a great area for a wine enthusiast, as the region offers a really good selection of wines from quite a small area, including stunning reds; some of the best rosés; dry, medium and dessert white wines. Plus there is plenty to offer besides wine - rich Provencal food (especially olives and olive oil) and markets, history, great landscapes and the source of inspiration for many artists.

We based the tour on the small town of St Remy de Provence (13 Bouches-du-Rhône, Provence), about 15 miles south of Avignon. I like Avignon, but St Remy offers a more intimate experience in a delightful small Provencal town (great market on Wednesdays), strong connections to Van Gogh and to bull-running through the streets!!

There are a number of reasonable hotels and a good selection of restaurants within walking distance. Although there are more stylish and pricey hotels around St Remy, we chose to be within walking distance of the town and the itinerary usually means that the hotel is essentially just for washing and sleeping rather than indulgence. Choose a different restaurant every night!

Two hotels in the town which are reasonable for a few nights are the Logis de France AUBERGE DE LA REINE JEANNE on boulevard Mirabeau – with courtyard restaurant – and the Hotel du Cheval Blanc in avenue Fauconnet – no restaurant and a little basic, but clean, comfortable and cheery.

St Remy is ideally positioned for this wine tour - a few miles south lies Les Baux de Provence, to the west is the Camargue and Costieres de Nimes AC, to the east lies Cavaillon (for its melons) and north of there you access the best of the southern Rhône - Côtes du Rhône, Vacqueyras, Gigondas, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Lirac, Tavel, Beaumes-de-Venise to name but a few.

Avignon TGV stationGetting there is easy - just about 15 minutes from the futuristic Avignon TGV station (under 150 minutes from Paris on some services) - about 50 minutes from Marseilles Airport at Marignane, 30 minutes from Nimes, about 1.5 hours from Montpellier and only 2.5 hours from Nice

CONTACT DETAILS-
Auberge de la Reinne Jeanne12, boulevard Mirabeau, 13210 Saint Remy-de-Provence; T: 04.90.92.15.33; F:04.90.92.49.65
L'Hôtel du Cheval Blanc 6 avenue Fauconnet, 13210 Saint Rémy de Provence T: 04 90 92 09 28; F: 04 90 92 69 05

More on the wine tour of the southern Rhône:-
A southern Rhone wine tour - Tour 1 - Les Baux de Provence
A southern Rhone wine tour -Tour 2 - Vacqueyras, Gigondas, Beaumes-de-Venise, Cairanne and the Côtes du Rhône
A southern Rhone wine tour - Tour 3 - Lirac, Tavel and Chateauneuf-du-Pape

For more info see St Remy Tourist Office
For TGV timetables and tickets see Rail Europe


RECOMMENDED READING:-
Rhone Renaissance by Hugh Johnson on the exciting developments in Rhone wines.
Rhone (Touring Wine Country) by Hubert Duijker
Markets of Provence
Provence Green Guide (Michelin Green Guides)

April 5, 2007

Paris North East

Lille and Vauban

Vauban's citadelle at Lille
The Telegraph (3 April 07) has an article enticing you to visit Lille (59 Nord, Nord Pas-de-Calais)

Lille ticks all the French boxes - arty culture, handsome looks, stylish shopping, fabulous food - but without the country's icy hauteur. Friendly and welcoming, it has a metropolitan buzz but a small, do-able scale. Unfairly dismissed as industrial, Lille has a charming old town, France's second most important art collection, frothy Flemish architecture and gutsy cuisine.

For us one of the highlights of the year is a visit to the Lille Wine Fair (Salon des Vins) hosted by the French Independent Winemakers association (www.vigneron-independant.com )which is being held this year between 16-19 November 2007 in the Lille Grand Palais .A great chance to taste and buy wines from all over France - a great pre-Christmas shopping weekend just an hour from the Channel coast. Explore the old Town, great shops and restaurants, Christmas market from late November, and the impressive Citadelle built by Vauban.

The article inevitably recommends L'Huitrière restaurant which is a superb but expensive fish restaurant in the Old Town - a little less stressful on the wallet is another good fish restaurant - L'Ecume de Mers (spume of the sea). Vauban's Citadelle just outside the city centre is an impressive fortification built by France's most prolific military architect - and provides an oasis of tranquility just 10 minutes walk away.

See dates for other Independent Winemaker Wine Fairs (Salons)

LINKS:
Lille Tourist Office
www.vigneron-independant.com
More on Lille Wine Fair

RECOMMENDED READING:-
Michelin Green Guide: Nord de la France
Paris Lille Brussels: The Bradt Guide to Eurostar Destinations (Bradt Travel Guide Paris-Lille-Brussels)
The Vauban Fortifications of France (Fortress)

April 4, 2007

France Events

Vendome Guitar Festival April 2007

vendome guitar festival
Vendome (41 Loir et Cher, Centre) is a pleasant town on the River Loir (no "e") north west of Blois (on the River Loire with an "e"), but it nevertheless hosts a major international Guitar Fesitval every April (7-14 April 2007). This seems to happen a lot in France whereby small provincial towns transform themselves into a the centre of some international cultural event.
Major artists from Spain, South America, New Zealand, Italy, Mexico and Afghanistan head for this town of 18,000 people. SImilarly Marciac in Gers (32 Midi-Pyrenees) hosts a major international Jazz festival every August - all a reflection of the fact that France takes art and culture very seriously, even in the provinces which can otherwise seem rather quiet and unexciting.

For more info see www.vendomeguitarfest.com/

Recommended Reading:-
Loire Valley (Eyewitness Travel Guides)
Chateaux of the Loire Green Guide (Michelin Green Guides)

April 1, 2007

France Events

Rugby World Cup in France September 2007

Rugby World Cup in France 2007For 5 weeks this Autumn France hosts the Rugby World Cup Tournament, starting with the initial match on 7 September 2007 in Paris and ending with the Final on the Stade de France in Paris on 20 October.Teams from across the World will be competing, and they may be a little surprised to find that some of the early round matches are being played in Cardiff and Edinburgh!!
However, the majority of matches are to be played in France including Lens (Nord Pas-de-Calais), Nantes (Brittany/Loire), Bordeaux (Aquitaine), Toulouse (Midi-Pyrenees), Montpellier (Languedoc- Roussillon), Marseille (Provence) St Etienne and Lyon (Central France) and of course Paris.
So be warned that roads and hotels are likely to be busier than normal in the Autumn, especially in Paris (throughout) and in the host towns and cities near match days.
As always with such events it is worth planning ahead and booking tickets, travel and hotel arrangements as early as possible.
Rugby Union (Rugby à 15) is very popular in certain pockets of France - particularly the South West. On the A61 Autouroute between Toulouse and Castelnaudry there is a motorway service area (aire) that is worth visiting - and its not often we would recommend such a place. At Port Lauragais there is the Ovalie - a rugby museum, as local teams such as Toulouse, Agen and Castres are amongst the elite European teams.
The "aire" also has a museum and display on the adjacent Canal du Midi which has a marina mooring on the site. So well worth a break in your journey see map
See our web calender for the dates and locations of the World Cup matches this Autumn

LINKS:-
www.rugbyworldcup.com for news, details of teams, fixtures etc

Rail Europe has some attractive offers when tickets go on sale in May - e.. London to Lyon from £99 return - and that is city centre to city centre.

RECOMMENDED READING:-
Le Guide Vert: Midi-Pyrenees
France on the T.G.V.: How to Use the World's Fastest Train to Get the Most Out of France
Grand Tour De France: A Rugby Supporter's Guide to the World Cup - France 2007