Tour 2- Beaumes de Venise, Vacqueyras, Gigondas, Cairanne and the Côtes-du-Rhône
After a gentle first day, this second outing is rather longer, but should be worthwhile. For here you will get a taste of essential Southern Rhône wines - and again pass though some great countryside and villages en-route.
An early-ish start is recommended to head east from St Remy on the D99 to Cavaillon - an otherwise unremarkable Provencal town, excepting for its deserved reputation as the centre of melon production!
(If you have time, you could make a small detour before reaching Cavaillon and the A9 autoroute - to another interesting wine and olive domain - Domain de Valdition - take a right (head south) off the D99 about 10km from Saint Remy-de-Provence to Eygalières, and .then left (east) onto the D74 towards Orgon - the domain is a few kilometres along on the left) - here they have some very well-made classy wines (despite being classified as Vin de Pays des Bouches du Rhône) - in a delightful chateau and tasting room. Unfortunately the website is over-engineered and does not work properly - but otherwise fully recommended - you could always do this as a short side-trip from St Remy if you have an hour to spare some other time)
From Cavaillon you need to find the D31 heading north towards Carpentras - the road network and signposting is not brilliant, so I would suggest going through "Centre Ville" as otherwise you may find yourself heading for Avignon, which is not be advised.
The D31 takes you past L'Isle-sur-Sorgues - a delightful town surrounded by the river Sorgue - and now famous as an antiques centre - excellent Provencal market on Thursday and Sunday mornings, although Sunday now gets very crowded with a major Antiques and Bric-a-Brac market. Worth a visit - but time may not allow on this day's itinerary.
Continue on the D31 (ignore a right to Carpentras) but keep on through Monteux and Sarrians towards Vacqueyras. The D31 becomes the D21 which you need to follow through to Beaumes-de-Venise. Turn left(north) onto the D7 towards Vacqueyras, and on the outskirts of the village you will find on your left the Co-operative of Beaumes de Venise. It is admittedly not an inspiring sight, but it is a good place to get a sense of these wines, the prices are good and the staff are helpful. Beaumes-de-Venise is best known for its very delightful dessert wine made from Muscat, sometimes in a distinctive bottle shape. However, don't overlook the fact that Beaumes-de-Venise is one of the Côtes-du-Rhône Villages AC and produces some excellent reds and rosés as well. Opposite the winery you'll see the Dentelles de Montmirail - the jagged mountains which dominate this part of the Vaucluse as an extension of the Mont Ventoux range. "Beaume" apparently means grotto or cave. The "Venise" part of the name does not refer to Venice, but to the town Venasque (84 Vaucluse, Provence) which was previously the local capital of the area known as the Comtat Venaissin.
Back on the D7 head on to the village of Vacqueyras, and continue beyond the village on the D7 Route de Bollène. You will pass a right hand fork to Gigondas, but continue on the D8 for a few hundred yards where you will find Domaine la Fourmone on your right. This is to my mind one of the best wineries in the area, featuring Côtes du Rhône AC, Vacqueyras AC and Gigondas AC - and a Muscat de Beaumes de Venise AC - Cuvée Souleu. I am not alone - Robert Parker awarded their Gigondas 93/100 in 2007! Madame Combe is very welcoming to wine enthusiasts, and you will be treated to an excellent tasting in their small tasting room. If you like BIG reds, then you must try the Gigondas AC l'Oustau Fauquet - Cuvée Cigaloun has been my favourite - very rich and intense, but probably not to everyone's taste.
As an added bonus Marie-Therese Combe also has an art gallery and studio on the Domaine with some excellent acrylics.
(One option could be to make this a 2-centre trip, as in Gigondas there is an excellent hotel at Hotel Montmirail (no website) Téléphone : 04 90 65 84 01 Fax : 04 90 65 81 50 E-mail : hotel-montmirail@wanadoo.fr )
From Domaine la Fourmone I would suggest heading north on the D8 to Cairanne - another Co-operative Wine Cellar just after the main road takes a sharp left turn in the village - Cave de Cairanne is on your right. Again a good selection of good value wines from this Côtes du Rhône Village AC - their Reserve red is silky and smooth.
Beyond Cairanne on the D8 for a couple of kilometres take a left (south) on the D978 towards Orange and then a left after a few miles onto the D41 signposted Camaret. In the village follow signs for Vaison-la-Romaine and as you leave the village watch for a sign to the left for rue Buisseron and Domaine du Vieux Chene.. Here Jean-Claude Bouche produces organic wines on a modest scale - but really excellent wines. We discovered the domaine many years ago when staying in the region, but were unable to import it as he had an exclusivity deal with another UK wine merchant. Jean-Claude and his wife Beatrice are charming and modest people who will give you a warm welcome in a rather sparse tasting room - try the Cuvée La Haie aux Grives (hedge of thrushes) Côtes du Rhône-Villages AC red.
If you are now heading towards late afternoon, then your journey back to St Remy-de-Provence holds a special treat. From Camaret head east back towards Vacqueyras, then south on the D7, Just after the village take a right onto the D52 then D21 to Sarrians, where you rejoin your outward route. Head south on the D31 through Monteux and on to Velleron. Here, just beside the D31 a farmers market (Marché Agricole) is held every evening from 18h00 from April to September (except Sundays and holidays), Predominantly small grower and producers of fruit, vegetables, poultry, olive oil and other goodies sell their produce often from the back of their cars - you will not find fresher unless you go to the farm.
Return south on the D31 to Cavaillon and then west on the D99 to St Remy-de-Provence.
Summary: About 140km (90 miles) travelling distance - about 2½ hours time.
CONTACT DETAILS:-
Domaine de Valdition Route d'Eygalières, 13660 Orgon; T: 04 90 73 08 12 F: 04 90 73 05 95 E:contact@valdition.com
Domaine la Fourmone Roger Combe et Filles, Route de Bollène, 84190 VACQUEYRAS; T: 04 90 65 86 05 F: 04 90 65 87 84
Les Vignerons de Beaumes de Venise Quartier Ravel, 84190 Beaumes-de-Venise T:04 90 12 41 00 - F: 04 90 65 02 05
Cave de Cairanne route de Bollène, 84290 Cairanne; T: 04 90 30 82 05; F:04 90 30 74 03
Domaine du Vieux Chene Jean Claude & Béatrice Bouche, Rue Buisseron
84850 Camaret; T:04 90.37.25.07 F:04 90.37.76.84
A southern Rhone Wine Tour - Introduction
A southern Rhône WIne Tour - Tour 1- Baux-de-Provence
A southern Rhône WIne Tour - Tour 3 Lirac, Tavel and Chateauneuf-du-Pape
