Visiting French vineyards can be a bit of a lottery - it can be difficult to know what to expect. Some offer a swish tasting room continuously staffed, whilst others are more basic and are staffed by the vigneron or members of the family - and only then when someone arrives and rings the bell or makes an appointment.Just don't be over-influenced by the surroundings - it is the wine that is the most important thing - and how your host helps you to appreciate and/or understand it.
So here's a short guide to some of vineyards that we know - but every one was worth visiting even if the experiences were varied. If you can it is worth telephoning in advance to check if someone will be there - but don't let that stop you just turning up - just be prepared for a wait on ocassion.
Probably the most polished visit we've enjoyed was to Chateau de la Tuilerie in the Costieres de Nimes AC. - a superb range of wines from the southern Rhone, in a stylish tasting room with plenty of info, helpful and knowledgeable staff, and other wine-related items - including a fantastic display of matador jackets when I last visited.
For Cognac and Pineau des Charentes, Maison Deau at Gemozac is also stylish and offers both a video presentation, a museum and some impressive gardens.
A touch less formal is Mas Sainte Berthe (see image above) at Les Baux de Provence - here they have a great tasting room with olives and olive oil products and a signposted walk through the vineyards with the spectacular backdrop of the Alpilles mountains.
In a more homely/rustic style we can recommend@-
Chateau Gibalaux-Bonnet in Minervois - nice tasting room but no frills
Domaine Octavie in Touraine in the Loire Valley - similarly
Domaine Leduc-Frouin in Anjou, Loire Valley and
Domaine des Huards in Cour-Cheverny (Loire)
Domaine la Fourmone for Cotes du Rhone, Vacqueyras and Gigondas
Paul Beaudet at Pontanevaux for Beaujolais and Maconnais
Significantly more basic, but nevertheless welcoming would be
Chateau Grinou in Bergerac - no real tasting room, but an enjoyable tasting amongst the wine vats
Similarly Chateau Beauportail in Pecharmant.
The one paradox is that the less polished the tasting room, the more likely it is that you will meet the winemaker/proprietor - who can impart their passion, knowledge and experience - and sometimes a little philosophy!
A useful guide to vineyard opening hours, addresses and telephone numbers (the latest versions only available in French) is the Le guide Hachette des vins
