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As Christmas (and Winter) approaches we've been on the lookout for some French food delights for the festive season. Two objectives in mind - firstly some Foie Gras and maybe some rich warming winter dish from the South West of France.
Our first stop was Dordogne Direct near Cirencester who we've known for some time - only to discover that their name is now something of a misnomer - because their range of products now extends well beyond the Dordogne and South West - e.g. into the Languedoc and Provence. Here you can get hold of a jar of Petit Salé - a very French concoction made with proper Toulouse sausages, Puy lentils, herbs and garlic. This was one of the dishes featured in Rick Stein's French Odyssey made with Salt Pork and Puy Lentils - a dish I have never seen in the UK. Even Rick's recipe warns that it is difficult to replicate at home in Britain because of the nature of the pork salt cure.
From Provence they have some real gems - such as Rouille, the Spicy mayonnaise paste - made with chilli, mustard and pimento - which complements a proper Bouillabaisse (Mediterranean Fish Stew); an onion confit (Confit d'Oignons), an Aubergine Caviar! and of course a good selection of Foie Gras (fattened Goose or Duck Liver). I marginally prefer the Duck Foie Gras - it has more flavour, but Goose is definitely more refined and better textured.
Other UK sources of French Gourmet foods include:-
French Flavour in Wrexham, North Wales
Julien de Provence with a selection of products from Provence and the Lot Valley (SW France)
Devigne Wines & Confit Direct in Welshpool, wo have a wide range of products on offer.

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easyjet has announced more flights to Bordeaux, this time from Bristol, starting in June 2007. This re-establishes a link between the two twinned cities, arising from the close relationship developed in the 19th Century with wine shipping. Numerous important wine merchants and importers were established in Bristol (e.g. Averys), with the facility of ships moving wine barrels directly from the heart of Bordeaux on the Garonne to the city centre of Bristol on the Avon.
Meanwhile www.flybe.com is offering Avignon as a destination from both Exeter and Southampton next summer, and nearby Marseille gets a www.ryanair.com service from London Stansted. Both these destinations are in a perfect position to allow you to indulge in the food and wine of Provence - Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Vacqueyras, Gigonas, Lirac, Cotes du Rhone, Tavel, Cotes de Provence, Les Baux de Provence.....
For more on French flight destinations see www.frenchduck.co.uk/travel/flights.html

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Every year the city of Lyon (69 Rhone, Rhone-Alpes) stages a remarkable festival of lights, its Fete des Lumières - this year the festival is taking place from Thursday 7th to Sunday 10th December 2006.
"A path of light will go all the way from the plateau of the Croix-Rousse down to the Place Carnot." originally established to celebrate the anniversary of the unveiling of a statue of the Virgin Mary on the Fourvière hillside - a celebration of thanks to the Virgin Mary, who purportedly saved the city from a deadly plague in the Middle Ages. Every house on the route has a candle in the window which together with the torchlit parade provides a stunning winter spectacle. Other sites in the city will also be floodlit, such as the Church of Saint Nizier and the hill of Fourvière, City Hall (Hotel de Ville) and several bridges over the river Rhone.
Lyon, of course prides itself as being the gastronomic capital of France, so it is awash with plenty of restaurants and "Bouchons, small intimate bistros serving local Lyonnais fare - lots of local pork for the famous Lyon sausages; andouillette à la lyonnaise (a sausage stuffed with tripe, veal and served with fried onions), salade lyonnaise (lamb and chicken liver). For wine there is a wide choice from Beaujolais to the north and the northern Rhone to the south - the local Coteaux du Lyonnais AC is a light Gamay red, little seen elsewhere. (although the Wine Society stocks one) Parts of the old town (Vieux Lyon) are recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage site with their narrow passageways (traboules) that pass through buildings and link the streets either side.
For more info see www.en.lyon-france.com

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On the first weekend of December (this year its on Sunday 3 December 2006) the Bandol appellation celebrates the new vintage. Bandol (83 Var, Provence-Alpes-Cote d'Azur) is on the Provencal mediterranean coast east of Marseille, with a pretty (and fashionable) port backed by steep hills where the vines are grown - the position is stunning - Provence light and sun, mediterranean harbour and beaches - and some excellent wines.

The appellation is distinctive in showcasing the Mourvedre grape - a rich and quite tannic variety used throughout the Languedoc and southern Rhone, but here it takes a major role. Mourvedre must comprise at least 50% of the blend, and can be supplemented with Cinsault and Grenache - although many winemakers will increase the amount of Mourvedre up to 100%. The same grapes make an excellent rose, whilst Clairette, Bourboulenc and Ugni Blanc form the basis of a delightful white wine.

At Allez Vins! we used to import the wines of Domaine BUNAN/Moulin des Costes - wonderfully intense rich wines - the domaine itself is well worth visiting being high up in the hills with stunning views towards the mediterraean. Their wines are available from the excellent Yapp Brothers in Mere, Wiltshire (and online, mail order)

Back to the festival - "Bandol wine lovers have no doubt about it: the Bandol New Vintage Wine Festival is not just another fair. It is a unique meeting with dedicated winemakers who, in 1982, had the idea of this unusual winter presentation of their recently made young wines, still raw and yet already full of promise.

Since then, every first Sunday in December, the Mediterranean port from where, formerly, the precious barrels branded with the B for Bandol were shipped, is invaded by thousands of wine enthusiasts. They come to share the secret of Bandol wine and its legendary grape variety: the Mourvèdre."

For more info on the Bandol Fete du Millesime see www.vinsdebandol.com
For more info on Domaine Bunan/Moulin des Costes see www.bunan.com

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The Independent (25 Nov 2006) has another of its French blitzes this time with an excellent guide to the best museums in Paris and beyond and a guide to the French wine regions.
A useful and new reference is the Centre des Monuments Nationaux a collection of nearly 250 important monuments, many of them cathedrals, castles and museums. The collection includes famous names such as Mont-Saint-Michel, Notre Dame, the Arc de Triomphe and the Panthéon, as well as things like the ramparts around the medieval town of Aigues-Mortes.
Another discovery is the Maxim's museum (see image above) where Pierre Cardin has recreated the rooms of a renowned courtesan in 1900 - 12 rooms furnished with articles and fine furniture by Tiffany, Majorel, Galle and others - all in the Art Nouveau style.

On the wine front there is a good set of links to the wine regions of France: " Everyone has heard of French wine, particularly the reds of Bordeaux and Burgundy and the whites of the Loire Valley, but few people really know "wine France". Just as there are wines for every occasion - champagne for a celebration, fortified Pineau des Charentes for an apéritif, smooth Armagnac to end a meal - so France's 17 wine regions, from Alsace to Corsica, all have something different to offer." See www.independent.co.uk

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For wine enthusiasts there can be few more attractive options for holidays than spending part of the time surrounded by vines on a vineyard, with some preferential access to the winemaker, cellars and maybe even a few bottles of wine - it always tastes so much better on site.
Several years ago, whilst still actively importing wine, I stayed at Chateau Gibalaux-Bonnet in the Minervois (near Laure-Minervois 11 Aude, Languedoc). Now in addition to some very good wines (especially their Cuvée Prieuré, an oaked red which rates as one of the most memorable bottles I have tasted) they also have a self-catering Gite and 3 B&B rooms (Chambres d'Hotes). The domain is wonderfully isolated in the scrubby moorland north of Trebes - ideal for walking and enjoying the scents of the "garrigue". For more info on the accommodation see www.gibalaux.com/ and for more on their wines see www.gibalaux.on-web.fr
Other options include:-
Clos Montels at Caux in the Languedoc (34 Herault)
In Cahors you could stay at one of our favourites - Chateau les Hauts d'Aglan at Soturac (near Fumel) - no website I can find but email Isabelle Rey-Auriat or phone 00 33 565365202
in Bergerac Chateau Les Miaudoux offers a fine looking Gite
In the Gers (32 Midi-Pyrenees) Domaine de Lauroux makes Cotes de Gascogne wines, Floc de Gascogne and Armagnac - and has both self-catering and B&B accommodation on offer

Posted by frenchduck at 8:31 AM | Permalink

Every autumn sees the publication of the annual "Guide Hachette des Vins de France", something which winemakers and merchants await with interest. It is in many ways something of a bible as far as French wines are concerned, being a description and rating of some of the best wines from across France, selected at blind tastings - less than 1 in 3 of the wines offered get through. This year's edition is even bigger running to 1400 pages - and a hefty €26.00 price tag. But there is much to gain - updates on the regions, selected "favourites", a guide to grape varietals and new this year are details of B&Bs (Chambres d'Hotes) and self-catering accommodation (Gites Ruraux) on vineyard estates. The only problem is that the guide is in French - not available currently in English.

Within the pages the panel selects its "Coups de Coeur" (favourites) which represent some of the best wines tasted (at all price levels) - and these are distinguished by the display of the wine label on the page. So this year I find the Saussignac AC from Clos d'Yvigne is rewarded as a Coup de Coeur - made by Patricia Atkinson, author of "The Ripening Sun: One Woman and the Creation of a Vineyard and La Belle Saison - an author and an increasingly accomplished English wine producer in the Bergerac region, South West France.
Saussignac is a dessert wine from the western part of Bergerac which is made from botrytised Semillon and sometimes Muscadelle grapes. The one we know best is from Guy Cuisset at nearby Chateau Grinou. Recognition has also come from UK wine writers such as Jane McQuitty in the Times - "It's amber-gold colour and rich, honeyed, butterscotch-scented style delivers classy, creamy fruit - just right with strawberries and cream. ...".
To cap it all, the domaine also offers on-vineyard accommodation - 2 rather splendid looking houses (they look a bit grand to be called "gites" situated amongst the vines.
For more info see www.cdywine.com/

You can order the Le guide Hachette des vins online direct from France

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Can you teach one of the lads to appreciate wine? Well, the enthusiasm of Oz Clarke must stand a chance you would think - he is knowledgeable, articulate and distinctly non-snobby about wine; but when the "lad" is James May from BBC2's Top Gear, then the prospects diminish.
BBC2 starts a 5-week series "Big Wine Adventure" on Wednesday 22 November 2006 (8pm on Wednesdays until 20 December) and attempts to introduce James to the joys of Bordeaux, Languedoc, Provence, Rhone, Alsace, Burgundy and Champagne during a month's tour of France. As with much TV these days, I cynically expect that James will play to the camera and seek to maintain a laddish disdain for the finer points - and the interplay between the two characters and some stunning scenery will dominate.Will he or anyone else learn much? I doubt it!
However, despite my Bah! Humbug! response, it should make entertaining TV and I welcome more exposure for France and French wines - and yes I will watch it!
For more info see www.bbc.co.uk
Majestic Wine Warehouses and Majestic Online
have a good selection of French wines if you want to follow the journey!

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Paris is such a walkable city, especially on a mild sunny autumn day. The metro is certainly the fastest way between any two points, the buses are good, but usually involve too many changes, you can do it by bike or even rollerblade - but walking seems best - the right pace, the ease of stopping and admiring the view or pausing for a coffee or window shopping.
Of all the many and varied guide books to Paris, a new concept seems to just fit with the practicalities of strolling - a series of 50 short walks each on a separate card with map and commentary. So just decide which area(s) you want, choose your cards (from a set of 50) and carry them in your pocket - no bulky books, or flimsy maps to unfold - perfect!
City Walks: Paris: 50 Adventures on Foot

One of the walks in the pack is a new "Promenade Plantée" in the 12th Arondissement (see map) which starts atop an old railway viaduct near the new Opera Bastille. Underneath in the arches are numerous classy emporiums selling very esoteric items such as intricate flower displays, antique and designer furniture, fashions etc, whilst above the old railway line has been planted with trees and shrubs and affords a high level view of the surrounding streets and even into the first and second floors of the adjoining houses and apartments. The route continues following the old railway line sometimes at street level, sometimes in cuttings or over and under bridges right out to the Boulevard Periperique - providing a green, traffic free route (and cycle lane) across the city.

Posted by frenchduck at 9:52 AM | Permalink

A few weeks ago we featured a satellite picture of France taken from space, which was fascinating in making clear the impact of the rivers and mountains on the geography, settlement and agriculture of France - esepcially vines.
The map was published by the Institut Geographique National (IGN) the French equivalent of the Ordnance Survey and main competitor to the ubiquitous Michelin maps.
IGN also publish a series of raised relief maps, which take the idea one stage further, especially in the mountainous regions, where you can really get an excellent appreciation of the landscape, slopes and peaks which dominate the country from the raised plastic contours of the map.

They range from a small map of the whole of France, to larger scale versions for specific regions - we used to have one of the Beaujolais region which was great to show customers where the cru regions were and how they connected to or were separated from adjacent vineyards. Unfortunately the wear and tear of a busy wine cellar, tastings and shows eventually took its toll.

However, such a thing could make a great Christmas present for an avid francophile, and properly mounted on the wall it should avoid the fate of our Beaujolais map.

Elstead Maps is offering a 10% discount on IGN's range of relief maps to its mailing list customers - including the small France map above, the Beaujolais map and many more.

Alternatively you can see the range at the IGN website at www.ign.fr

from Dorling Kindersley.

Posted by frenchduck at 6:20 AM | Permalink

Quercy is the ancient name of a region of South West France in the Lot and Lot-et-Garonne départements roughly centred on Cahors (46, Lot, Midi-Pyrenees). The Coteaux du Quercy wine appellation however lies to the south of Cahors down towards Montauban (47 Lot-et-Garonne, Midi-Pyrenees). It is lassified as a VDQS ( Appellation d'Origine Vin De Qualité Supérieure), which is a category between "Vin de Pays" and full AOC (Appellation d'Origine Controllée or AC) and has similar but less stringent restrictions of grape varietals, yield etc.

Some think of Coteaux du Quercy as a minor "Cahors", the Malbec dominated rich red, but it is in fact something quite different and somewhat unusual for SW France in that the main grape is the Cabernet Franc (between 40% and 60% of the blend) - the other varieties being côt (malbec or auxerrois), gamay, merlot and tannat, none of which can exceed 20% of the blend.

The terroir is typically on the high limestone "causse" or moorland between the Lot Valley in the north and the Aveyron and Tarn Valleys in the south. Only red and rosé wines are produced, which tend to be quite complex but less tannic than Cahors. The dominance of Cabernet Franc can suggests a more fruity style than their neighbours. Production is almost entirely by small independent winemakers, and it is really only in recent years that the wines have been exported outside the immediate region. There is a co-operative (Vignerons de Quercy) - Premier Crew wines in Warminster stock the "Bessy de Boissy" red.

If you are travelling through the region it is worth a small detour to David & Sarah Meakin's Domaine du Merchien at Belfort-du-Quercy (46 Lot, Midi-Pyrenees - see map) where this couple are making some superb wines (and beers!!) which are rapidly gaining a well-deserved reputation.They also have an interesting blog at http://merchien.blogspot.com/

Posted by frenchduck at 6:39 AM | Permalink

Down in rural Sussex n the centre of Hurstpierpoint High Street, 10 miles north of Brighton, just off the A23 you'll discover South Downs Cellars - and behind the modest facade you'll be greeted with an excellent choice of wines from South West France including some real classy and classic producers such as Chateau de Cedre in Cahors (one of the very best); Madiran and Pacherenc du Vic Bilh from Bouscassé; Bergerac from Patricia Atkinson at Clos d'Yvigne; and wines from Chateau Beaulieu in the Cotes du Marmandais! Their Alsace selection includes great names such as Hugel and Rolly Gassman; In the Loire they have gone for big names such as Couly-Dutheil's Chinon and Henry Pellé's Menetou-Salon AND some rarer sightings such as Valencay AC and Coteaux du Giennois - so a judicious selection of some of the best producers sprinkled with interesting lesser-known offerings. I would have no problem in putting together a rather good mixed case of quality interesting wines - other than to decide what to leave out.
They have a shop, online ordering and a wine club. Their Christmas tasting is on Sat 25 November 2006 - not to be missed I'd say.

For more info see www.southdownscellars.co.uk
Click for more on Patricia Atkinson and Clos d'Yvigne
Click for more info on the Cotes du Marmandais!

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Buy at AllPosters.com

Robert Doisneau is the photographer whose iconic black and white photos of Paris in the 1930s, 1940s and 1950s captured a vision of a romantic city, conjured up the music of Edith Piaf or Charles Aznavour and swathed it all in the whiff of Gauloises cigarettes. We have several of his atmospheric prints at home, and they are very evocative of a Paris as we'd all love to imagine it.

And yet, the Paris and Parisiens that he photographed are not in the main the tourist sites or celebrities, but much more of the day-to-day almost back-street life of the city and its people. Some are quite quirky and funny, but somehow you know that they are of Paris and of real people in that era.

Perhaps his most famous image is that shown above - "Le Baiser de l'Hotel de Ville" taken in 1950 and which was sold in 2005 for €155.000.

There is an exibition of his work at the Hotel de Ville in Paris until 27 Feb 2007 (not Sundays) - for more info see http://en.parisinfo.com/

Musician in the Rain

Art Print

Buy at AllPosters.com

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St Alvere (24 Dordogne, Aquitaine) claims to be the first village in France to have its own online truffle market. Known as the black truffle of Périgord, it is harvested between November and March, with the market open from 1 December!(see location map)
A techinical descrption would be: "Epidermis wartish brown with red reflections Soil marbled with white on anthracite base colour. Smells of forest undergrowth and damp earth, roasted dry fruits.Taste: finely peppered, recalling its aromatic composition, long in the mouth. Only admitted in Grade 1; Ste Alvère"
As well as having updated prices (in season) the site has recipes (Boiled Eggs with Truffle Puree; Scallops with truffle and soft pimento); a guide to growing truffles and more info on truffles than most of us would know what to do with,See the site at www.sainte-alvere.com/

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Our Prize Draw has now closed and the winners are:-

M Terry from Bournemouth
H Jones from Coventry

The correct answer to the question "In which village is Domaine Octavie situated" is OISLY.

For more info on the Lille Wine Fair (17-20 Nov 2006) see http://www.frenchduck.com/2006/11/win_tickets_to_lille_wine_fair.html

Posted by frenchduck at 6:56 AM | Permalink

The BBC is carrying a story suggesting that the EU may rule that individuals could be able to order wine for home delivery direct from France (or elswhere in the EU) without paying UK duty and VAT.
To be fair this prospect has been raised before on numerous ocassions, but the UK Treasury has always managed to block such moves, and will doubtless resist this one given the amount of income from excise duty it stands to lose.
Of course, delivery charges are likely to outweigh savings on small quantities (although Pic Wines seem to be able to offer competitive prices including duty and delivery on their selection of Languedoc wines), but purchases of more than a couple of cases are likely to be significantly cheaper.
There are some downsides though - as it is likely to be the small independent UK merchants who will suffer most, with their more discerning and knowledgeable customers buying direct. This is likely to further reduce the choice available in the UK, especially of the more interesting small production wines.Cross-channel ferry fares would probably rise, as the "booze cruise market would disappear - although the ferry companies are reportedly looking at developing a delivery operation in response.
For others the opportunity to buy direct from a favourite chateau could be a very attractive option as long as the winemakers get their act together on delivery.
Personally I doubt it will ever happen, and if it results in the Chancellor increasing duty rates on commercial wine and spirit imports, then that would be a disaster.

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Following on from yesterday's article on Boulogne-sur-Mer, Anthony Peregrine in the Times has some suggestions for extending the cross-channel Christmas shopping trip with some quality time in the hinterland of Calais. The northern French countryside may not have the immediate seductive charm of Provence or the Dordogne, but get off the main routes and you can get a sense of being in deepest France - albeit the weather reminds you of your closeness to the UK. Like all good things, France needs a little time to be enjoyed and savoured - not something which is easy to do in Calais for all its attractions.
"Well, we have the answer. It is to transform the Calais booze cruise into a short break. A simple overnighter will do. That way, you’re not flipping across for cheap hooch. You’re going to spend some time in France, which sounds a lot better.
And it is a lot better. Beyond Calais itself, the Pas-de-Calais region is surprisingly lovely and studded with fine hotels. It’s proper France. Then, when your stay is done and you’re homeward bound, you dart into Calais for the booze — an afterthought, nothing more."
He has some good suggestions for hotels, chambres d'hote (B&B) and shopping which may swallow up some of your savings on shopping, but make for a more enjoyable winter break.
For more see the Times

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Boulogne-sur-Mer (62 Pas de Calais, Nord Pas-de-Calais) seems less vibrant these days, now that the only cross-channel route is with SpeedFerries - a small high-speed catamaran. There were times when Boulogne vied with Calais as the preferred short-crossing destination, but all the investment went to Calais (with its easy access to the autoroute system), and Boulogne has declined - much of its port activity seems to be derelict and the heart of the town feels a bit down-at-heel, and the rather torturous exit route from the ferry terminal to the A16 autoroute is neither fast nor particularly enticing. (although the A16 does offer an alternative and pleasanter route to Paris than the A26/A1) The modern, port-side town is mainly modernist concrete.
But, take the effort (on foot or by bus) to get up to the upper town (Vieux Ville, or Ville Fortifié) and you will be rewarded with a charrming and fascinating walled old town, with interesting little streets, shops and restaurants - and as usual an impressive civic town hall.
The old town is the setting for the Boulogne-sur-Mer Christmas Market on the weekend of 9 and 10 December 2006 with music and fireworks, food and gift stalls - the atmosphere should be perfect.
If you cannot wait until then you could always try the Boulogne-sur-Mer Herring Festival on 18-19 November 2006 - but somehow it does not have the same appeal - "Traditional herring festival coinciding with the arrival of the Beaujolais nouveau. Grilled herring, sea-shanties and folklore!"

For more info on the Christmas Fair see www.villefortifiee.com/
For more on the Herring Festival see www.tourisme-boulognesurmer.com/uk/

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With continued airport security delays and restrictions, going overland to your French Alps ski destination starts to look ever more attractive, and this winter there are 2 main options for rail travel from London or Kent to the Alps. And rail travel always has more potential to be convivial than the hassle of airports and the cramped seating conditions on planes.

One option is the going overnight from London or Ashford (Kent). Although you have to change trains in Paris you do not have to change stations - just platforms at the Gare du Nord. With destinations including Chambery, Albertville, Moutiers, Aime la Plagne, Landry and Bourg-St-Maurice you can leave the UK on Friday afternoon and arrive in the Alps on Saturday morning in time for an extra full day on the slopes! Again on the return you leave the Alps on Saturday evening getting back to the UK Sunday morning!
For more info see

An alternative is to take Eurostar direct on Saturdays during the season - for example leaving Waterloo at a civilised time (9.43am) arriving in the Alps early evening - with plenty of time to book in to your accommodation and enjoy your evening meal and even a bit of "apres-ski" even though you won't have had time to do any skiing!. You avoid overnight travel but don't get the chance of an extra day on the slopes. For more info (and a funky website) see

Posted by frenchduck at 9:39 AM | Permalink

One of the major events in the world wine calendar every November is the "Trois Glorieuses" in Burgundy - a traditional festival of excess for the invited few to participate in 3 great feasts on Saturday at Clos Vougeot, Sunday at Beaune and Monday lunchtime at Mersault. The excuse for this party is the annual "Vente des vins", a charity auction at the Hospices de Beaune.

Local resident John Scallon reports: "The weekend of 18 and 19 November 2006 are the dates this year. It is here that the prices are set for the new vintages. The repercussions of the auction go all around the world. Last year was the first year that the old "candle" style of auction had been replaced by the standard "bidding" type but there was no less interest. Sadly for the general public admission to this part of the festivities is only for the great and the good of the wine industry. Mere mortals will have to be content to wander around picturesque Beaune sampling the local produce, both food and wine are well represented, and the various "sports". There's always a competition to discover who can pull the most corks out of wine bottles in a given time. Try doing five in quick time with a standard corkscrew and see how much your arms ache. At least you've got some wine to drink afterwards!
All the big negociants are open during the weekend, most offering tours. It can be advisable to see if you can book ahead as some of them are very popular. There are lots of stalls in the streets selling vin chaud (mulled wine) with gougères which are a sort of savoury profiterole. We usually go to the Scouts stand for these as you get a small glow of smugness as well as a large glow of warmth (It's the middle of November. You need as much warmth as possible). There's live music in the Place Carnot on the Saturday night and away you go! Dining in the evening is predominantly for those with good foresight or a hotel in the centre as most of the restaurants get booked up very early. However on the way out of town towards the motorway junction 24.1 (South towards Lyon etc) there are several restaurants including a Buffalo Grill where you'll get a good steak at a reasonable price. These are all part of national chains but quite acceptable. Buffalo Grill was in deep trouble a couple of years ago when British Beef was banned in France, for illegally importing it! One in the eye for French protectionism."

All this jamboree follows close on the heels of Beaujolais Nouveau day on 16 November,
"Wed 15th November at 2359 and 59 seconds the noise in the main street of Beaujeu will be approaching a crescendo. Two seconds later the only sound will be that of wine being drunk! Le Beaujolais Nouveau est arriveé. Beaujolais Nouveau has received a mixed press over the last few years. All of it deserved. In a bad year (2002 for example) it is a wine, to quote Monty Python "best laid down and avoided". In a good year (2003, 2004 & 2005 for examples) it is a light, refreshing drink with just a slight touch of effervescence.
The atmosphere in Beaujeu is strange. Wandering around the village at about 2100 Hrs you would be forgiven for thinking you've come to he wrong place! The only sign of anything out of the ordinary is a stage & sound system in the main square, about 20 trestle tables with associated tents around them in the main street & the fact that the wine exhibition centre is open. All the bars are full as are the restaurants (book in advance) but the village is quiet. At about 2300 Hrs there is a fireworks display in a nearby village (frequently obscured in Beaujeu by mist & fog) and then the locals start a torchlight parade towards Beaujeu dousing their flaming torches into large barrels at the start of the main street. Sneakily at about 2230 Hrs a couple of unmarked Transit vans have unloaded about 36 litre bottles of unlabelled wine at each of the trestle tables along with vast quantities of small plastic glasses. It is now that the village starts to fill and, if the weather is fine, up to 15,000 people gather around these tables! One second past midnight more fireworks and the pouring commences. The atmosphere is great, there's no pushing & shoving because everyone knows that there's enough for all. The drinking goes on until there's none left and that's it for another year and Beaujeu returns to it's peaceful ways."

John Scallon runs a B&B in the region - see www.bandb-burgundy.com. "We'd suggest that you keep the wine theme going either by visiting a couple of vignerons in the Jura to sample their unique wines or, should you wish to stay in Burgundy, a couple in the Hautes Cotes de Beaune and Cote Chalonnais. All can be arranged."

For more info on Beaune and the Trois Glorieuses see www.ot-beaune.fr

Posted by frenchduck at 8:31 AM | Permalink

Delighted to discover that Leon Stolarski Fine Wines is now stocking one of the best producers in Madiran and some good Jurancon and Jurancon Sec.
It is an interesting juxtaposition, Madiran AC being for rich tannic reds, and Jurancon AC being for intensely perfumed aromatic sweeter whites (Jurancon Sec AC for superb dry whites).
As such both appellations are very distinctive and individual - and proud of it. Both use traditional local grape varietals (Tannat for Madiran, Gros and Petit Manseng for Jurancons) and both regions (albeit only about 30 miles apart) are dominated by small individual domaines.

In Madiran Chateau Peyros has always been one of the prime producers, especially with the cuvée "Le Couvent de Chateau Peyros". Madiran was effectively created as a serious appellation by the Laplace family at Chateau d'Aydie; Patrick Doucournau at Chapelle Lenclos has been an innovator with the introduction of "micro-oxygenation", Alain Brumont at Chateau Montus has been the perfectionist, whilst DIdier Barré at Domaine Berthoumieu has been the young upstart who has really made a name for Madiran wines of great style over recent years and is my personal favourite.

Jurancon AC and Jurancon Sec AC are from Domaine de Montesqiou at Monein - not a domaine which I know, but they do warrant an entry in the renowned "Guide Hachette des Vins de France 2006" so they should be good. In general I prefer dry whites, and Jurancon Sec is a deliciously intense dry white, usually very aromatic and quite different from the normal run of Sauvignons and Chardonnays - "Pale straw/yellow colour, with green tints. A lovely floral and mineral nose, with hints of lemon, apple, pear and honey. Extremely fresh and zingy, with lemon and lime flavours, married to ripe apple and a lovely mineral depth. Beautiful stuff, and great value for money!"

Leon Stolarski Fine Wines will also be exhibiting at the ADSW tasting at Canons Ashby

Posted by frenchduck at 3:37 PM | Permalink

Have long been a fan of the superb Corbieres Wines from SCV Castelmaure - a small co-operative in the rocky "Durban" region near Fitou. So, it is encouraging to see that Oddbins are now stocking their "la Chapelle" cuvée. Whilst not as big as my preferred "Grande Cuvée" this is an excellent everyday red: "Corbières accounts for a large portion of the western Languedoc, and with its chaotic mountainous terrain, produces some very good value wines that seem to ooze fruit and spice. This bottle from the quality co-op based in the village of Embres-et-Castelmaure, is Carignan-dominated and ready to drink now.
A dark and fruity nose of blackcurrant precedes a palate of spicy bramble, plum and cassis flavours, all wrapped up in a soft, silky mouth feel."

For more info on Castelmaure see www.frenchduck.co.uk

Posted by frenchduck at 12:57 PM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

Christmas Markets in France (marché de noel) provide a good excuse for a quick winter weekend away - great atmosphere and good shopping opporunities with a gallic twist -plus stocking up on wine for the Christmas Season. The following is not an exhaustive list, as most towns and cities will be holding some kind of Christmas fair at some point between late November and the end of December. These are some of the best - others will be posted on our Web Calendar

Agen (47 Lot-et-Garonne, Aquitaine) 3-5 Nov 2006 (yes - November!) - see www.ot-agen.org/fr

Aix-en-Provence (13 Bouches-du-Rhone, Provence) 24 Nov - 26 Dec 2006 - see www.aixenprovencetourism.com

Amiens (80 Somme, Picardie) 25 Nov - 31 Dec 2006 - see www.amiens.fr

Boulogne-sur-Mer (62 Pas-de-Calais, Nord-Pas-de-Calais) 9-10 Dec 2006 - see www.tourisme-boulognesurmer.com

Chartres (28 Eure et Loir, Centre) 2-24 Dec 06 - see www.chartres-tourisme.com/
Place des Epars, boulevard Chasles.

Colmar (68 Haut-Rhin, Alsace-Lorraine) 25 Nov-31 Dec 2006 - see www.ot-colmar.fr/

Dijon (21 Cote d'Or, Burgundy) 1-23 Dec 2006 - see www.dijon-tourism.com

Lille (59 Nord, Nord-Pas-de-Calais) 22 Nov - 27 Dec 2006 - see www.lilletourisme.com/

Marciac (32 Gers, Midi-Pyrenees) - 17 Dec 2006 - see www.marciactourisme.com

Montbeliard (25 Doubs, Franche-Comte) 25 Nov - 24 Dec 2006 - Christmas Markets and Lights - see http://lumieresdenoel.fr

Mulhouse (68 Haut-Rhin, Alsace-Lorraine) 22 Nov - 30 Dec 2006 - Place de la Réunion, Square Steinbach - see www.ot.ville-mulhouse.fr/evt/marchenoel.php

Nancy (54 Meurthe-et-Moselle, Alsace-Lorraine) 24 Nov - 24 Dec 2006 Place Maginot - Rue Notre Dame - Passage Saint Thiébaut - see www.ot-nancy.fr

Nantes (44 Loire-Atlantique, Pays de Loire) - 24 Nov - 24 Dec 06 - see www.nantes-tourisme.com

Niort (79 Deux-Sevres, Poitou-Charentes) 2-24 Dec 2006 - see www.niortourisme.com/

Noisy-le-Grand (93 Seine St Denis, Ile de France) 6-10 December 2006 - Place Galliéni - see http://english.pidf.com/

Reims (51 Marne, Champagne-Ardennes) 24 Nov - 24 Dec 2006 - see www.reims-tourisme.com/

Strasbourg (67 Bas-Rhin, Alsace-Lorraine) 25 Nov - 31 Dec 2006 - see www.noel-strasbourg.com/pages_prov/GB.html The original "Christkindelsmärik" dates back to 1570.

Posted by frenchduck at 6:49 AM | Permalink

More insider info provided for us by John Scallon on Burgundy in the Autumn;
"There's no doubt that the Burgundy region is the place to go for wine in November. Running from the 1st - 12th November is the Dijon International Food Fair (82, Cote d'Or, Burgundy). Opening hours vary but generally the doors open at about 1000 and they close at 2000 (sometimes later) see www.dijon-tourism.com
The fair has all sorts of goodies to try and to wonder at. There is an area given over to companies exhibiting all things to do with house & garden, (you may find it difficult to convince British Airways that a Jacuzzi can be classed as carry on luggage but...) which greets you as you go in. Once you get through this you are into the main hall where all the interesting (unless you want a Jacuzzi) stuff is. Lots of producers of wines, foodstuffs and craft-ware. A lot of the big wine companies exhibit as well as those who are in the medium to large sector. It's rare for the 10,000 bottle per year producer to be here. Lots of restaurants and food-stalls to entice you in for lunch (small tip: get seated by about 1155 otherwise it's everyone for themselves. Even in a food fair the French 2 hour lunch is compulsory) For those of a more careful disposition it is perfectly possible to graze gently throughout the day and come away having eaten enough for a small army purely by tasting the samples on offer. Sadly(?!) the same is possible with the wines. Be firm, the salesmen are good at their job and you are not talking £1.20 per bottle here. Still, if you are driving and have room in the car......"
If you stay at John & Carolyn's comfortable B&B in Burgundy you can benefit from more local knowledge on things to do and see in the region - even as winter approaches!

Posted by frenchduck at 6:09 AM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

The Lille Independent Wine Makers' Fair takes place in the Grand Palais in Lille (59 Nord, Nord-Pas-de-Calais) from Friday 17 to Monday 20 November 2006 inclusive.
This jamboree offers the opportunity to taste and buy a wide selection of French wines direct from the indpendent vignerons usually at cellar door prices. With hundreds of stands the choice can be overwhelming - fine Bordeaux, Burgundy and Champagne next to more humble and lesser-known appellations from all corners of France (and Corsica) - a great way to discover some real gems and talk to the people who make the wine - no merchants, distributors, co-ops or negociants.

FrenchDuck has two pairs of tickets to give away in our prize draw - all you need to do is to answer a simple question and provide your email address by Sunday 12 November - winners will be notified on Monday 13 November and tickets will be posted out the same day.The only other requirement is that we do ask you to visit the winemaker sponsoring these tickets - which is Domaine Octavie from the Touraine on Stand B30. Mention Allez Vins!/French Duck and you should get a warm welcome.To enter the PRIZE DRAW CLICK HERE

Posted by frenchduck at 1:21 PM | Permalink

Yapp Brothers' Christmas Sale takes place at their premises in Mere, Wiltshire on Friday 24th and Saturday 25th November 2006.
Now this is how an independent wine merchant should be - with a raft of interesting and some lesser-known wines from hidden corners of France!
The former dentist's main specialisation is in the Loire and Rhône (North and South), but also includes good selections from Languedoc, South West, Savoie etc. So on his list you will discover excellent Bandol (mourvedre-dominated red from Provence) Lirac from the superb Domaine Maby in the southern Rhône, superb Jurancon Sec from Domaine Bellegarde; Collioure from Roussillon; Thouarsais and Saint Pourcain from the Loire - I could go on and on!
Their Christmas Offers list is available now.

For more info see www.yapp.co.uk

Posted by frenchduck at 6:44 AM | Permalink