Boulogne-sur-Mer (62 Pas de Calais, Nord Pas-de-Calais) seems less vibrant these days, now that the only cross-channel route is with SpeedFerries - a small high-speed catamaran. There were times when Boulogne vied with Calais as the preferred short-crossing destination, but all the investment went to Calais (with its easy access to the autoroute system), and Boulogne has declined - much of its port activity seems to be derelict and the heart of the town feels a bit down-at-heel, and the rather torturous exit route from the ferry terminal to the A16 autoroute is neither fast nor particularly enticing. (although the A16 does offer an alternative and pleasanter route to Paris than the A26/A1) The modern, port-side town is mainly modernist concrete.
But, take the effort (on foot or by bus) to get up to the upper town (Vieux Ville, or Ville Fortifié) and you will be rewarded with a charrming and fascinating walled old town, with interesting little streets, shops and restaurants - and as usual an impressive civic town hall.
The old town is the setting for the Boulogne-sur-Mer Christmas Market on the weekend of 9 and 10 December 2006 with music and fireworks, food and gift stalls - the atmosphere should be perfect.
If you cannot wait until then you could always try the Boulogne-sur-Mer Herring Festival on 18-19 November 2006 - but somehow it does not have the same appeal - "Traditional herring festival coinciding with the arrival of the Beaujolais nouveau. Grilled herring, sea-shanties and folklore!"
For more info on the Christmas Fair see www.villefortifiee.com/
For more on the Herring Festival see www.tourisme-boulognesurmer.com/uk/
