On 17 September the Côtes du Brulhois celebrated its Fete des Vins at Donzac (82 Tarn-et-Garonne, Midi-Pyrenees - see map). Styling itself the "black wine of the South West" (Le Vin Noir du Sud Ouest), this is a VDQS appellation (i.e. between a Vin de Pays and a full Appellation Controllée) which stretches along the banks of the Garonne river near Agen (in the Oc language "Brulhès" means wooded riverbank. This is reputedly an ancient vineyard, which got rather lost in the 20th Century and today remains a small and little-known region covering only about 200 hectares. They are known as "Black Wines" because of the deep coloration of the reds, made from cabernet franc, cabernet sauvignon, fer, merlot, cot et tannat. They also produce rosé wines from the same grape varietals.
The more famous black wine is that from Cahors, where the Auxerrois or Malbec grape dominates. In truth I suspect both Cahors and Brulhois wines were used in Bordeaux in earlier times to add body to poor vintages.
There appears to be no importer of Cotes du Brulhois wines into the UK, and I cannot recall having tasted them - bit suspect that they are not dissimilar to the wines from adjacent Buzet.
The other claim to fame of the Côtes du Brulhois is that they organise and host the annual Grape Picking World Championship (Championnat du Monde des Coupeurs de Raisin) Apparently 80 pickers took part, the winner being a 20-year old local girl. The pickers are judged not only on the volume/weight of grapes picked in the allotted time, but also on the lack of damage to the grapes, absence of leaves and other debris. I'm not sure if they are allowed to use the electric secateurs these days which would certainly help to make the task easier, but it remains a skilful task to pick fully and cleanly.
However, you have to admit these French are clever - hold the competition and get your vines picked for free!!
For more info see www.vigneronsdubrulhois.com
