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August 31, 2006

Wine & Cheese Weekend at Langon

dessert wine

In the region which hosts Sauternes and Graves, Langon (33 Gironde, Aquitaine) celebrates its 21st "FETE DU VIN ET DU FROMAGE" from 1-3 September 2006. Lying Southeast of Bordeaux, just off the A62 Autoroute to Toulouse (see map), Langon is in the southernmost part of the Gironde département. But if you follow the Garonne river down from Bordeaux rather than the autoroute you journey will take you through villages with evocative names such as Barsac, Sauternes and Loupiac - some of the finest dessert wines in the whole of France. These are made possible by both the Semillon grape and position of the vineyards influenced by the Atlantic Ocean, which is ideal for the moisture which prompts the development of "botrytis" or noble rot, which in turn produces late harvest grapes where the juices have been concentrated into sweet nectar.
There are also dry white and red wines from the "Graves" - including the modest little "Chateau Haut-Brion". Here the reds (made from Merlot and Cabernets) tend to be supple and full-bodied with distinctive bouquets, and with real ageing potential amongst the best.

My recollection of Langon is of a pleasant, if unexciting little town, which will be enlivened over the weekend of 1-3 September with the celebration of wine, cheese and gastornomy - the "guest" region being Savoie - so some excellent cheeses will be available to accompany the wine tasting and all the "normal" attractions - competitions, music, processions, ceremonies and market.

For more info see http://www.sauternais-graves-langon.com//a>

August 30, 2006

Wine Festivals

St Peray Fete des Vins 1-3 Sep 06

st peray wine festival
And now for something a little different - the wines of St Peray (07 Ardeche, Rhône-Alpes) are not often seen, but your chance comes in early September when they hold their wine festival.
Saint-Péray is the southernmost part of the northern Rhône wine region just west of Valence.See map.
The Rhône is predominantly associated with spicy red wines, but Saint-Péray is unusual for the region in producing sparkling white wines - although a little still dry white is also made. This arises because the climate is just a bit cooler and the soils a little richer than its neighbours at Cornas for example. This produces wines which are more acidic and lighter in alcohol - ideal for making fizz! The principal grape varieties are Rousanne and Marsanne. The wines are highly rated - the Guide Hachette des Vins de France describes Saint-Péray as one of the best sparkling wines in France!

The Wine Festival spreads over 3 days of festivities, including music, a festival queen, cycling, rambling, a market and wine fair. As they combine it with a Twinning festival with towns in Germany, Italy and Portugal the weekend has an international feel and offers something to attract all. For more details see www.st-peray.com
St Peray (07 Ardeche, Rhone-Alpes) 1-3 September 2006

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In the UK the excellent Yapp Brothers stock the Saint-Péray of Jean-Louis Thiers "Flavoursome dry, sparkling wine with a creamy mousse, and a bracing palate of mineral and nutty tastes with a lively citric zest and pleasant toasty aromas." £11.95

August 25, 2006

Bordeaux Landes

Onions in Coutras!

coutras

The town of Coutras (33, Garonne, Aquitaine) goes onion crazy on 30 August 2006 with its "Foire aux oignons" - yet another celebration of something which is at first quite mundane, but which can be elevated to a gastronomic jewel
For the French an onion is not just an oignon. - they come in all shapes, sizes and colours, and each has a specific purpose. In cooking most French chefs will use Shallots (échallote), which are smaller and more delicate in flavour than the common onion. They also use small, flat "grelots" which are often used as a raw garnish - the flesh tends to be brilliant white but strong.You'll see a lot of the larger Spanish onions which are milder in flavour, whilst of course the salad or spring onion and the red onion tend to be used for salads.In the north you'll find the flat straw-coloured "oignons jaune paille des Vertus", and in Alsace they grow the French equivalent of our pickling onions - "oignons de Mulhouse".

However, back in Coutras, there is a market (both local produce and bric-a-brac (junk)) in the Place de la Mairie and in the evening there is a night market with French Onion Soup.
(There is a good recipe for French Onion soup in the delightful "Classic French Cooking" by Elisabeth Luard - see Classic French Cooking: Recipes for Mastering the French Kitchen
Coutras lies northeast of Bordeaux and Libourne near the confluence of the Isle and Dronne rivers.(see map)
For more info see Coutras Tourist Office

August 24, 2006

Brittany Normandy

On the beach at Villers-sur-Mer

villers sur mer

VILLERS-SUR-MER (14 Calvados, Normandie), is a pleasant seaside resort on the Côte Fleurie, and this weekend you could try the "Summer Fires" (Feux de l'Eté) festival on the beach on Sunday 27 August from 8pm to 1am, where huge bonfires are set on the beach and there is music, dancing and probably even a little drinking - both alcoholic and non-alcoholic as this is a family event.- see www.villers-sur-mer.fr/ot/
Also on Friday and Saturday nights (25 and 26 August 2006) there is "dancing on the beach" (Festival DANSE SUR LE SABLE : BALLET « 150) - well not actually on the sand, but there is ballet in the Ampitheatre Perdrisot on the sea front.
Villers-sur-Mer is on the coast just west of Deauville - see map Market days - Tuesdays and Fridays.

August 23, 2006

Loire

Vines, Wine and Walking in the Loire Valley

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Another of those multi-tasking activities is planned for Sunday 3 September 2006 when you can take a number of guided walks through the Loire Valley vineyards, and discover and taste wines whilst getting some excercise!
Led by winemakers who have developed marked pathways through their vines, you can find out more about some of the best and some of the lesser known Loire Valley appellations such as Jasnières, Coteaux du Loir, and Quarts de Chaume and Coteaux de l'Aubance. Others walks are at Touraine, Bourgeuil, Saumur, Chinon and Vouvray, with one focussing on Loire Rosés! The walks end with a picnic and wine tasting - and some of the guided tours will be in English.
For more info see www.vinsvaldeloire.fr or phone (France) 01 42 04 21 00.

August 22, 2006

France Events

Cassoulet Festival at Castelnaudry

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Castelnaudry (11 Aude, Languedoc-Roussillon) claims to be the birthplace of the rich bean and meat stew called "Cassoulet" - and celebrates its local dish over the weekend of 24-27 August 2006.
Although it is to my mind a winter dish, a good cassoulet is a wonderful dish made from haricot beans, preserved goose or duck, suasages and garlic, slow cooked in the oven. It is named after the earthenware dish, the "cassole"
The festival offers the opportunity to learn more about the dish and its variations - and there is a competition to find the best cassoulet cook.
The hearty dish deserves a hearty wine - such as a Madiran or Cahors, or a good Corbières for example.
The best Cassoulet I ever tasted was in Carcassonne at the Jardin de la Tour restaurant in the medieval heart of the Cité - quite rustic, great atmosphere and good wines - the Grande Cuvée Castelmaure, Corbières AC. (Le Jardin de la Tour, 11, rue porte d'Aude, Téléphone 04.68.25.71.24
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Castelnaudry is between Toulouse and Carcassone, close to Cathar Country and the Canal du MidiSee map
For more info see www.couleur-lauragais.fr/fete-du-cassoulet
In the UK you can find Cassoulet at www.frenchflavour.co.uk

August 21, 2006

France Travel

Mid-Summer France travel suggestions

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The Independent has another of its series "24 Hours In: Paris" which follows in the footsteps of artists and writers who had made the city their own. Also in the Independent Chalres Darwent writes "A picture of Paris"
They say the French capital shuts in August. Yet it's just the time to visit the world's best city for seeing art.
Meanwhile over in the Observer, there are some good ideas for avoiding plane travel (or rather the airports) in these days of heightened security with some good deals available on both ferries and Eurostar.
The Telegraph has some recommendations on where to stay in the fashionable 8th Arondissement in Paris (close to the Champs Elysees)
In the Times, Jane Shilling is beguiled by the beauty of the Camargue and its horse-riding ritual, the abrivado, whilst Alistair Sawday picks his top ten secret stopovers to break your journey - and enjoy a taste of rural French hospitality iwith a series of off the autoroute journeys through France - see http://travel.timesonline.co.uk
"France is too captivating to observe only from the motorway". His itineraries include Peronne (80 Somme, Picardie), Arras (62 Pas-de-Calais, Nord-Pas-de-Calais) Bourges (18 Cher, Centre) with its magnificent medieval centre and flying buttress Gothic cathedral; Beaune(21 Côte d'Or, Burgundy); Aumont-Aubrac (48 Lozere, Languedoc) and Collioure (66 Pyrenees Orientales (Languedoc) - a delightful little harbour and resort close to the Spanish border; Orange(84 Vaucluse, Provence); Menton(06 Alpes-Martimes, Provence)

August 20, 2006

FrenchWine

Absinthe from the Doubs

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Absinthe, the wormwood spirit which was the scourge of the French Impressionists is making a re-appearance in several guises. Known as the "Fée Verte" of green fairy this aniseed flavoured spirit was banned in France and many other countries when it was recognised that it contained high levels of a drug called thujone which is an effective mind rotting substance, made doubly lethal by high alcohol content to rot the liver. In Paris in particular it was cheap and often illicit, with few controls on its lethal content. Its descendents were the Pastis (e.g. Pernod, Ricard) of today which whilst still strong spirit (40-45o alcohol, similar to most Cognacs) is obviously nowhere near as potent as the original.

The reputed home of Absinthe is in the Doubs département in the south east corner of France adjacent to Switzerland with its main towns of Belfort and Besancon. in the Franche-Comté region.

Doubs Premium Absinthe contains distilled wormwood, and the essences of 11 mountain herbs, including anise, fennel, hyssop and lemonbalm. It has a distinguished herbal and floral character, true both to its historical French antecedents and to the preferences of the most discerning modern palette.
Its herbal complexity, smooth and refreshing taste, gorgeous green colour (which louches dramatically when iced-water is added) and well-rounded absinthe character have garnered it a growing following and a string of awards: it was a Silver Medal winner at the prestigious 2006 International Wine and Spirits Competition, the premier competition of its kind, and in tasting evaluations for the Fee Verte Buyers Guide, it has consistently achieved the highest ratings of any absinthe in its class."
In the last decade, regulatory authorities all over the world have come to the realization that the reasons for the banning of absinthe a century ago were specious, and had little to do with any inherent danger on the product, and everything to do with the fevered prohibitionist politics of the time. Absinthe with less than 10mg/l of thujone is legal throughout the EU, Scandinavia and Eastern Europe. In many countries - Spain, Portugal, the UK - absinthe was never banned in the first place. It's been re-legalised in France and Switzerland. It's legal in Canada, Australia, most of South America, South Africa and Japan. The one remaining anomaly is the USA, where the sale of absinthe is still technically prohibited, although it is not illegal to possess, or to drink."

For more information on Absinthe see www.absintheclassics.com/
For more information on the Doubs département see www.doubs.fr/

August 19, 2006

Wine Festivals

Avignon and Côtes du Rhône wines

avignon ban des vendanges
The city of Avignon (84 Vaucluse, Provence) lies in the heart of the Côtes du Rhône vineyard, but the city itself barely produces any wine except there is a vineyard within the curtilege of the Palais des Papes (the medieval Popes Palace) known as the Rocher des Doms
rocher des doms vineyard

Early September sees the start of the wine harvest in Provence, the precise date depending on the weather in preceding months and days. Different grape varieties also ripen at different rates.

In many reasons they celebrate the beginning of the harvest, sometimes based on an "official" declaration that the harvest may be started within an appellation. This is known as the "Ban des Vendanges". In Avignon this takes place on Saturday 2 September 2006 from 4.30pm to midnight - with a procession on the Ramparts, the declaration from the Ramparts, free wine tasting, music and markets. There is also a demonstration of harvesting and wine-making techniques - all set in the dramatic and historic surroundings of the Palais des Papes. For more info on this event see www.banvendanges.com

A similar event takes place in St Emilion (33 Gironde, Aquitaine) on Sunday 17 September 2006 - see www.saint-emilion-tourisme.com

August 18, 2006

France Events

Agen Prunes and the Lady Cyclists

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The French have a very different attitude to certain foods than the British, and not just around snails, frogs legs and unmentionable bits of offal. Take the humble prune - in the UK it tends to cause a little sniggering and is mainly associated with its alleged effect on the lower intestine - and for most of us beyond early middle-age (as I like to consider myself) that memory is invariably of tinned prunes of uncertain origin as "black coated workers"!
In France however, the Prune is celebrated as a delicacy and has its own Appellation Controllée in "Pruneaux d'Agen" from the area around the town of Agen (47 Lot-et-Garonne, Aquitaine). Furthermore a major French professional ladies cycling team is sponsored by the Agen Prune and proudly sport their racing jerseys which feature the noble prune. Considering how seriously the French take cycling, even womens cycling, that is some accolade.
Of course, gently cooked Agen prunes are deliciously different from the old tinned prunes. They come from a specific type of plum which is then slowly baked on the farm, so they retain a fresh fruity character without tough skins. They are an ideal complement to South West cuisine - duck and foie gras in particular.

Agen holds its annual Grand Pruneau Show from 1-3 September 2006 which includes the inevitable Prune parade, concerts, markets etc - see www.grandpruneaushow.fr/

The website at www.pruneau.fr/gb provides tons of info and recipes (e.g Duck and Prune kebabs) as well as more photos of prunes than you could ever need!

The local wine is Buzet AC a region which produces some excellent Bordeaux-style reds (Cabernets and Merlot), dry whites (Sauvignon, Semillon) and rosé. It is an appellation dominated by the Cooperative, but this is a co-op with a good reputation and high standards. They produce several different styles - the "Lys" range in the elegant tall decorated bottles is excellent, albeit lighter in style than the "Tradition" or "Baron d'Ardeuil" wines.
Buzet wines are available in the UK from www.genesiswines.com - the Buzet website is at www.vignerons-buzet.fr/uk/

August 16, 2006

Bordeaux

Undiscovered Bordeaux

undiscovered bordeaux
I have tended to be somewhat wary of Bordeaux wines in recent years - too often they are either over-priced or of questionable quality - and such sweeping generalisations are inevitably unfair to a region that produces a vast quantity of AC wines, and some of the best wines in the world. My major beef has been that too often the French assume that because a wine is a)French and b) from Bordeaux they can justify selling it regardless of the usual criteria of "good value for money" or "bon rapport qualité/prix". Consumers have also connived in this situation, always assuming that if a wine has Bordeaux on the label it must be good - AND/OR submitting to the wine snobbery of earlier years which suggested that if you did not appreciate a fine Bordeaux, then that was more a reflection of the consumer's lack of knowledge (or parents!) rather than any shortcoming in the wine!!

But now www.bordeaux-undiscovered.co.uk has come along with the avowed aim of tracking down those elusive great value wines from Aquitaine: "Bordeaux Undiscovered has gone in search of such wines, tasted them, selected the best, based o­n their quality to price ratio, and is now making them available in the UK for the first time at very competitive prices."

And to prove their point they have a mixed case offer of 12 bottles for just £49.00 plus £5.99 delivery - which has to be worth a try.
The website at www.bordeaux-undiscovered.co.uk includes recipes to match the wines. There is plenty of information on the wines chosen - within the criteria of some seriously selective tastings to ensure quality and value - and their previous unavailability in the UK.
Perhaps it is time to take another look (or taste) of Bordeaux.

August 15, 2006

France Restaurants

Fleur de Sel, Dunkerque

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A sudden panic - we could not find one of our favourite restaurants - had we taken a wrong turn? had it been transformed into a Burger King or something - no, it had been sold and renamed as "Fleur de Sel"!
Flower of Salt sums up the French approach to food - in the UK we tend to think of salt as salt - maybe differentiating between sea or rock or Maldon salt as opposed to refined table salt. But with the French there are many more gradations of quality and style - so "Sel de Guerande" and other s from the islands off the Atlantic and Brittany coasts are considered quite different to those from the Camargue on the Mediterranean coast.
The Fleur de Sel is a version of sea salt obtained by hand harvesting the "young" crystals that form on the surface of shallow salt evaporation ponds. The harvesting of fleur de sel always takes place in the summer months when the sun is strongest and hence the evaporation is quite natural. They tend to be less salty and to exhibit more mineral character and are prized as special by good chefs.

Having re-traced our steps we find the old "Bois de Chene" is now the Fleur de Sel at Capelle-la-Grande between Dunkerque and Bergues (59 Nord, Nord-Pas-de-Calais). A favourite lunch stop close to the cross-channel ferry ports, we found this place about 15 years or more ago. As so often with French restaurants the exterior appearance tells you little - a fairly typical and unprepossessing brick facade hides an elegant restaurant and great food.

As the Bois de Chene it was particularly good at northern and flemish cuisine - so the menu was always interesting and challenging - and never disappointed. The new owners have given the place a make-over - toning down the rustic feel of the dining room into a more restrained and elegant interior. The food and service were superb and we can thoroughly recommend - BUT, it seems to have lost some of its local and idiosyncratic character which made it rather more special.
We feasted on local duck, crab and cheeses which were all superbly cooked and presented in generous proportions. The wine list was very good - we chose an old vine rosé from Chateau de la Tuilerie in the Costières de Nimes (an old favourite winemaker) - very intense and almost red in colour and weight.

For more on the Fleur de Sel see www.fleurdesel-restaurant.com/
For more on the wines of Chateau de la Tuilerie see www.chateautuilerie.com/

August 14, 2006

France Events

Pink Pig Festival in Hesdin

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The French have a penchant for finding any excuse for a celebration, and Hesdin (62, Pas-de-Calais, Nord-Pas-de-Calais) is no exception with its "Fetes du Cochon Rose" held in August. You may be a bit late for the "Rando-Cochonnaille" or guided Pork Walk (lunch included) but 15 August is the grand spectacle pyrotechnique - or big Firework Spectacular" at 10.30pm. (see map) For more info see www.tourisme7vallees.com/
The town, inland from Le Touquet is at the heart of a region known as the Seven Valleys - which include the valleys of the Canche and Lys. The town itself has Spanish connections and indeed was rebuilt and relocated to its current site by the Spanish Charles V (Charles Quint) in the 16th Century. Its other claim to fame (apart from Pink Pigs) is its proximity to the site of Agincourt (or Azincourt as it is now known) a few kilometres to the north. This was a famous 15th Century battle in the 100 years war, immortalised in Shakespeare's Henry V. There is a museum/visitor centre there (the actual battlefield is apparently little altered by the passage of time) - for more info se www.azincourt-medieval.com/

August 12, 2006

Wine Festivals

Pezenas Wine Night

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On Thursday 17th August 2006, the town of Pézenas (34 Hérault, Languedoc) stages an intriguing evening wine & food walk through the unspoilt heart of the medieval town. A combination of wine tasting, feasting and meeting the winemakers combined with an exploration of the impressively preserved historic town centre should make for a thoroughly enjoyable, instructive and healthy time (assuming not too much wine is imbibed).
Pezenas is well-situated in the heart of the Coteaux du Languedoc and some good southern wines should be on taste - see www.ot-pezenas-valdherault.com
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Another opportunity to do some pleasant multi-tasking could be taken if you were visit a number of wine cellars (both independents and co-operatives) who are staging photography exhibitions in their cellars featuring the local heritage and landscape under the heading of "A winemaker invites an Artist" (Un Vigneron invite un Artiste) Runs until 17 September 2006. Also at the Hôtel Flottes de Sébasan in Pezenas.
For somewhere to stay in the region you could choose a classy villa in the midst of the Languedoc vineyards at Roujan (34 Herault, Languedoc) near Pezenas - with easy access to both the Med and the Parc Regional du Haut Languedoc.Owned by a winemaker who as decorated and furnished with style. Large private enclosed grounds (9000m2), 3 bedrooms, pool, terrace, bbq - sleeps 8/10 - and plenty of informed advice about which vineyards to visit - CLICK HERE

August 9, 2006

UK Wine Merchants

Swallow Fine Wines

swallow fine wines
Swallow Fine Wines came to our attention as they stock some interesting Vin de Pays Charentais from Domaine Gardrat in Poitou-Charentes - not something you would discover on the supermarket shelves! Further investigation reveals good Alsace wines from Ribeauvillé and a decent selection of Bordeaux reds.
103 Fisherton Street, Salisbury,Wiltshire SP2 7SP - see map
T: 01722 414 644
www.swallowfinewines.co.uk

French Alpes Savoy

Mountains, Lakes and Villages in the Jura

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More ideas from John Scallon at www.bandb-burgundy.com - but don't forget your passport if you follow John's idea for a great little excursion in the Jura.

Take a drive up through the high Jura to La Cure (39 Jura, Franche-Comté) on the French/Swiss border above Les Rousses (see map) and catch the little mountain train (times below) down to the Swiss town of Nyon, stroll down to the lake shore and catch the lake steamer across to the lovely floral village of Yvoire (74 Haute-Savoie, Rhône-Alpes), crossing the border back into France again en-route!. Yvoire is celebrating it's 700'th anniversary this year. Stroll around the village, the Chateau gardens (the chateau itself is a private home and not open to the public) and ramparts, or just choose a nice restaurant for lunch. (see www.yvoiretourism.com)

Swiss Rail, in partnership with the Lac Leman Boat Company are offering a return from La Cure to Yvoire and back, train and boat for €29 until 23rd September 2006. If you just want to take the train down to Nyon and back, the fare is Chf.26.80 (about €19).

Timetables: La Cure - Nyon - La Cure (train)

Dep Arr Dep Arr
La Cure Nyon Nyon La Cure

06.55 07.43 15.15 16.03
07.50 08.43 16.15 17.03
08.55 09.43 17.15 18.03
10.17 11.05 17.53 18.41
10.55 11.43 19.15 20.03 Trains after this one terminate at St Cergue

Nyon - Yvoire - Nyon (boat)

Dep Arr Dep Arr
Nyon Yvoire Yvoire Nyon

09.20 09.40 14.00 14.22
10.10 10.30 14.53 15.13
11.17 11.39 15.38 16.00
11.48 12.10 16.03 16.25
The next boats go via 16.50 17.12
Geneva and take 2hrs 17.55 18.17

For more info on the Jura see www.jura-tourism.com
and for a good English run B&B see www.bandb-burgundy.com from where this trip can be made.

August 8, 2006

Brittany Normandy

Dior Museum in Granville, Normandy

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In the small and rather elegant resort of Granville (50 Manche, Basse-Normandie) there is now a museum and garden dedicated to the designer Christian Dior.
This icon of French Haute-Couture had a house in the town - "Villa les Rhumbs" which houses the museum, containing a huge collection of his creations. Yet what is surprising is that his creative purple patch really only covered about 10 years from 1947 to his death in 1957 - when he single-handedly created the "new look" and eternalised the image of the eternal Parisian woman - elegant with fine shoulders and narrow waist. He was clearly also a serious businessman, as the name Dior has been sustained and developed in the 40 years since his passing.

High fashion was his forté, but he was also an entusiast and creator of fine perfumes, and part of the Villa is dedicated to perfumery - you can experiment and smell your own concoctions in the Perfume Workshop. And in the garden of the house there is an "aromatic" promenade through some of the plants which provide the essential oils for the perfumes.
For more info see www.musee-dior-granville.com
Just 30 miles south west via Avranches is the Mont St Michel - see www.baie-mont-saint-michel.fr/

August 7, 2006

France Books Guides Film

Arazzat's Aubergines - a Languedoc Kitchen

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Arazzat's Aubergines
Ig you want to bring back or capture the essence of the Languedoc and its food, then this could be the book for you.In many places the Languedoc landscape is rugged, peppered with "garrigues", a sort of moorland with wild herbs, (rosemary,thyme, star anise and mint), heather and broom - ideal territory for wild boar and lamb. And of course, the Mediterranean Sea is never far away with its rich harvest of seafood, especially around the Etang du Thau. Geographicaly and gastonomically it is a region influenced by its neighbours in South West France and Provence,
Fortunately it also manages to produce wines to match robust and well-flavoured dishes - rich reds especially from Fitou, Corbieres and Pic St Loup; and crisp dry whites from Picpoul de Pinet.

"Returning to his challenging home in the Languedoc, Patrick Moon could easily fill the days, protecting infant vines from marauding wild boar and hiding baby truffle oaks from unscrupulous neighbours. The local campsite cafe is, however, now an ambitious new restaurant. The determination of its talented young chef to achieve perfection on a shoestring is intriguing, and Patrick soon finds himself behind the swing doors, sharing in the triumphs, disasters and sheer hard work of life in a serious kitchen. A wider exploration of the region's finest produce for the table distracts him further. From season to season, Patrick's quest uncovers the secrets of olive oil and salt production, the mysteries of Ricard and the Roquefort caves, the miracle of the sparkling Perrier spring. From mighty household names to eccentric peasant smallholdings, his expeditions encompass an extraordinary cast of characters and a rich vein of humour. But always there are the melons and olives and aubergines demanding attention at home. "

August 6, 2006

France Events

Festival Grandeur Nature

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The high alps are more associated with winter than summer, but even if the stunning scenery is not enough, from 6 to 16 August there is also a Festival of Art amongst the scenic grandeur of the Parc Naturel Regional de Queyras in the villages of Molines, Aiguilles, Arvieux, Chateau Ville Vielle and Saint Veran ( 05 Hautes-Alpes, Provence, Alpes, Cote d'Azur) an area close to the Italian border south east of Grenoble. Set at heights over 2000m numerous events - sculpture, workshops, exhibitions plus a series of feature and documentary films to be shown in outdoor locations all featuring the natural world in its many guises.
For more on the festival see www.festivalgrandeurnature.com and for the Parc Naturel Regional de Queyras see www.pnr-queyras.com/.
Meanwhile the Indpendent has a guide to 48 hours in Grenoble - despite being close to the Alps and having more of a winter persona, "Grenoble is one of the sunniest places in France. It enjoys 2,000 hours of sunshine each year, and to prove it an artificial beach - la Plage de la Bifurk - will be in place until November"- see www.plagedelabifurk.com. I am starting to think that no French town worth its name does not have a summer beach - it is clearly the vogue!

August 5, 2006

Loire

French wines with a difference

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Over at www.spittoon.biz Andrew has unearthed a couple of lesser-seen French wines from Oddbins, but he clearly does not pay enough attention to FrenchDuck otherwise he would have known beforehand about the wines of the Coteaux Giennois - and would not have missed the local Bonny-sur-Loire wine fair by a few days! His tasting note for Etienne de Loury's Terre de Fumée Sauvignon Blanc, 2004, Coteaux du Gennois was: "Rich and quite creamy, spiked through with piercingly clean lemon acidity......could pass for a good quality Sancerre." Mind you at £8.99 so it should!
His other discovery comes from Bordeaux - but not white Bordeaux as we know it - here the traditional Sauvignon Blanc is blended with Gros Manseng, the Jurancon grape. Here is a classic example of the nonsense of French wine laws - this imaginative wine can only be classed as a very humble Vin de Table because a) the grapes are grown in 2 different regions and b)the only classification available in Bordeaux is Bordeaux AC, which does not allow Gros Manseng in the blend. Maybe next year the new Vin de Pays de l'Atlantique classification may encourage more experimentation like this - although this wine would still fall outside the new rules.
Château Plain-Point Blanc, 2004: "It seems the perfect summer wine - crisp acidity with appley, wet stone flavours and an intriguing unripened-strawberry finish... an edge of citrus... a splash of herbs combining into a medium bodied whole" Also from Oddbins at £8.99

August 4, 2006

FrenchFood

Canard - French Duck Recipes

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There is a sumptuous French foodie site over at Chocolate & Zucchini - fascinating recipes and lush photography make it irrestible. Following the theme of French Duck they have an interesting recipe for Duck Breast encrusted in Lavender flowers = Magret en Croute de Lavande. Informative too - e.g."What is the difference between a duck fillet and a duck magret? Both refer to one half of a duck breast, but magrets come from a duck that's been force-fed to make foie gras, whereas fillets come from regular ducks. Magrets are more flavorful, but fattier than fillets." Plus advice on where to buy "unsprayed" lavender flowers in Paris. (in the UK you could try www.woldswaylavender.co.uk)

Loudmouthed Gordon Ramsay also had a duck breast recipe on his F Word Show on Channel 4 - Gordon Ramsay's Breast of duck with gooseberry sauce, spring greens and sautéed new potatoes - see www.channel4.com - there's even a video version of the recipe. But the recipe looks really good with the sharpness of the gooseberries cutting against the fattiness of the duck. Big problem though - as I would usually go for a sturdy Madiran or Cahors with Duck, but that does not feel right against the Gooseberries - maybe a good Chablis - will need to experiment me thinks!

Keywords: France, French, food, duck,canard,recipe,gourmet

August 3, 2006

Jura Savoie

Jura wines defy expectations

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An interesting article on Jura wines in the New York Times - wines which are seldom seen in the UK, and whilst quite idiosyncratic, deserve some investigation (and tasting)!

"The Jura defies many expectations, nowhere more so than in its wines. The leading whites have a nutty, sherry-like aroma that many people regard as hopelessly oxidized, but they are actually tangy, complex, pure and delicious. The best reds barely have enough color to be called red. They are delicate and graceful, yet with an earthy intensity that can stand up to the smelliest of cheeses. Almost singularly among wine regions, the reds are usually served before the whites in the Jura because they are lighter in texture." (see full article)

UK stockists include a new discovery for us - Vine Trail in Bristol; also Devigne Wines in Wales

Keywords: France,wine,french,jura,savoie,savignin,macvin


Wine Festivals

Burgundy, Beach and Beer!

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John at www.bandb-burgundy.com has offered an excellent choice of things to do in Burgundy, Eastern France and the environs.

As always there are lots of wine fairs and village fetes all over the place, however there is a major festival Fetes de la Vigne in Dijon (21 Cote d;'Or. Burgundy) 1st - 3rd September 2006 in the Autour des Halles, Place Francois Rude. Entry is free but a souvenir glass and tasting tickets cost from €2.00 open from 10:30 - 20:00 each day to sample wines from the fine Burgundy crus - lots of wine-related events around the pedestrianised centre of the town.
Also in Dijon is yet another inland summer beach - Dijon Plage open until 10 September at the intriguingly named Lac Kir!! - see map

Over in the Jura there are things to do. Particularly interesting is a guided wine-tasting through the wines of the Jura in historic Chateau Chalon. Every Tuesday until 29th August 2006, at 20:30, six vignerons bring one example of their work to a tasting evening. A Professor of Wine talks you through the wines of the Jura, their individualities, quirks, and characteristics and how to taste them! How to recognise the alcohol content from swirling the wine around the glass, developing and recognising the aromas, and finally the taste. Once all the theory has been dealt with you get to taste the wines! Much chat with people in the audience being asked their opinion, what can they smell, and or taste in each of six different types of wine. The range of Jura wines is well covered. You'll start with a Cremant (Sparkling wine), go next to a Red, either Poulsard, Trousseau (you've not heard of those have you) or Rubis (Pinot Noir with Trousseau mix). Following that is a Chardonnay, as unlike a Chablis or Californian Chardonnay as is possible to find, thence to a Chardonnay/Savagnin (yes the spelling is correct) mix which starts you off on the typical Jurascian tastes. Next is the classic Chateau Chalon Vin Jaune. A white wine which positively mugs the unaware. Finishing with a Macvin (mix of Marc du Jura and grape juice) the whole evening will take about 2-2½ hours and costs the princely sum of €5.00! (and you get to keep the glass!) Booking is advised from the Tourist Office in Chateau Chalon (infos@hauteseille.com) website: www.hauteseille.com Good French is definitely helpful but not totally necessary.
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Add for something completely different - a trip around a brewery! The Rouget de Lisle Brewery in Bletterans (39 Jura, Franche-Comte) has tours during July and August weekdays at 1000 & 1500 and weekends at 1500 only. No booking necessary, just turn up at the time - see www.larougetdelisle.com/. Foreigners had perhaps be on their best behaviour, as Claude Joseph Rouget de Lisle was a soldier, engineer, poet and musician who composed "la Marseillaise" - so expect some due reverence to a true French icon.

A perfect base for these visits would be the British owned and run B&B with John & Carolyn Scallan at "Le Bourg" in Sens-sur-Seille (71, Saone et Loire, Bourgogne) - see map - website at www.bandb-burgundy.com


Keywords: France, wine, burgundy,jura,beer,tourism,festival, accommodation