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We have commented on the problems of too much poor quality Bordeaux wine over the year, but at last there may be some movement which could help both consumers and producers.
In many regions of France the "Vin de Pays" (country wine) appellation has proved very successful - e.g. Vin de Pays d'Oc from the Languedoc, and Vin de Pays des Côtes de Gascogne from Gascony.
But in Bordeaux there has never been a lower classification than full AOC (Appellation d'Origine Controllee) - probably because the Bordelais were too proud to have their wine classed as anything less. As a consequence, poor or excess vintages either had to be sold off cheap (but still under the Bordeaux AC), sent for distillation or blended into a very humble Vin de Table.
But with this new category becoming available "Vin de Pays de l'Atlantique" there is the prospect of some good, interesting and great value wine coming from the region.
For the Vin de Pays tag does not necessarily imply sub-standard wine that does not qualify for full AOC status.It allows winemakers to make a wine with fewer restrictions on grape variety and blend, on pruning and yield etc - so it is perfectly possible to make a much better wine if the vigneron is not straightjacketed into trying to produce the traditional Bordeaux using traditional standards. Certainly in the Languedoc and elsewhere this has led to experimentation and some excellent wines, which in some cases fetch a higher price than the traditional AC wines.

The new classification does not just include Bordeaux, but also the departements of Gironde, Dordogne, Charente, Charente-Maritime and part of the Lot-et-Garonne. Although the blends will be predominantly the traditional Bordeaux grapes of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot for reds, Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc for the whites, other varieties are being allowed in some areas - e.g. Syrah (seldom seen in South West France), Cinsault, Chardonnay and Chenin Blanc.

There are a couple of existing Vin de Pays appellations in the area - e.g. Vin de Pays de la Dordogne and Vin de Pays Charentais, and presumably these will be retained - although I suspect they will effectively disappear if the new Atlantique label is successful and is marketed well.

So from the 2006 vintage you should start seeing some interesting new wines and labels - although I suspect it may be a few years until the really successful experimentation is evident.

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One of the features of the South West of France is the predominance of bastide towns - fortified villages which huddle together often at the top of a hill, and which prove quite effective at repelling unwanted invaders - historically mainly the English or the French, depending on which part of the country you were in and when. Bastide towns are characterised by a grid of narrow streets, closely park houses and usually an impressive open square (place) with arcades round 4 sides and will often include a covered market hall. Over 300 were built over 150 years from the beginning of the 13th century.
Monflanquin (47 Lot-et-Garonne, Midi-Pyrenees) is one of the best preserved - although it is a living village not a museum or tourist attraction. And it does have its market day (Thursdays) and during the summer months there is also an evening market (marche nocturne) in the Place des Arcades.
Also in Monflanquin is the Musee des Bastides - see www.cc-monflanquinois.fr/musee_bastides.htm, an interesting little museum explaining the development and philosophy of the bastides - visit the museum and then see the real thing!
Monflanquin is recognised as one of the "Plus Beaux Villages de France" (most beautiful French villages)

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The Hot Air Balloon European Cup and Ladies World Cup is to be held at Mainfonds (16 Charente, Poitou-Charentes) from Thursday 3 - Sunday 6 August 2006. Southeast of Cognac (see map)
Depending on the wind conditions you might catch sight of the balloons anywhere between Cognac and Angouleme in the north to Jonzac and Saintes in the south - although do remember that the best time for balloons tends to be early morning or evening.
There is also a competition for "aerostatic" flying - a real test of the pilot's skills in holding the balloon steady at a fixed point, The French equivalent of the Red Arrows - la Patrouille de France will also be there.
For more info see www.hotairballooneuropeancup.com
NB The french for Hot Air Balloon is "montgolfier", so named after the inventors (brothers) who perfected the idea towards the end of the 18th Century.

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Unless you are lucky enough to live within an hour or so of the English Channel ports, the annual trip to and from France can be a bit of an ordeal. Dover crossings may be short, but tend to leave you with longer to drive on both sides of the Channel. The western Channel crossings are longer, but can be expensive, especially if you reserve a cabin for an overnight crossing.
And, whilst parts of northern France don't always tempt you to pause, the routes through Brittany and Normandy offer a host of places which would be worth a linger!
Michael has recommended what looks to be an ideal stop-over to break the journey - just 90 minutes or so (135km) south of the Caen ferry terminal) at Ouistreham.
Le Basse Cour is run by Phil and Jude Graham at Ancinnes (72 Sarthe, Pays de Loire) near Alencon (61 Orne, Normandie), just 10 minutes from the new A28 autoroute, and right on the border between Normandy and the Loire Valley (Sarthe).
"Choose from three comfortable en-suite guest rooms with a three star Gites de France rating. The house is in a peaceful, quiet setting surrounded by wooded and planted gardens on the fringes of the magnificent Forest of Perseigne. You're welcome to make yourself at home on the terrace with a glass of wine (or try the local Normandy cider) or enjoy a game of boules on the lawn."
As Michael said " it was so good that we stopped over for two more days on the way back to the port at Caen. Genial hosts, wonderful setting, super rooms."
For more details see www.normandie-chambres.co.uk/

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Looking at a map you would not normally assume that the area around Chateau Ricardelle, between Narbonne (11 Aude, Languedoc) and the Mediterranean would be suitable for fine wine production - along the coast the soils get sandier, it tends to be flat and the salt-laden winds off the sea can seriously damage the vine leaves.
But the sub-appellation of la Clape in the Coteaux du Languedoc is a major exception to this wisdom, primarily due to a massive outcrop of limestone rock - Montagne la Clape! (la Clape apparently means "the rock"!)(see map)

This mountain both shelters the vineyards from the sea and provides the neighbouring slopes with plenty of mineral richness to impart to the grapes.
The Cuvee Closablieres 2004 from Chateau Ricardelle was featured on a recent tasting of the Languedoc wines stocked by Pic Wines. This is a blend of Grenache (40%), Syrah (30%), Carignan (30%), all of which are vinified separately in French oak, producing a glorious red which the chateau describes as its "seducteur" - and rightly so. Languedoc wines tend to be quite beefy, sometimes even a bit tough - but this wine had a wonderful balance of lush red fruits and spicy tannins all carefully blended to provide a smooth, elegant and delightful mouthful. I think what surprised me was its elegance, not something I generally associate with big Languedoc reds. And at £7.60 a bottle well worth it!

This is one of several examples of really good wines available from Pic Wines - see also
Minervois la Laviniere
Wine & Food Walks
Pic Wines - a different approach
Website for Chateau Ricardelle
The Chateau also has accommodation available in the midst of the vineyards!

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It can be difficult to decide what to do on holiday especially when there's more than 2 of you - different interests can cause a touch of friction. But in Cahors (46 Lot, Midi-Pyrenees) there is a multiple-interest tour which will help you discover the best of the town and the surrounding area.

In town there is a series of "Secret" Gardens, 29 in total, waymarked throughout the town, including an arab garden, a lavender garden, an apple tree garden, a garden of spices, a monastery garden etc. Furthermore, through these gardens you will also discover the history and architecture of this fine medieval town, set in the loop of the Lot river, with its iconic Pont Valentre (fortified bridge).
For more info on the Jardins Secret trail see www.mairie-cahors.fr
The first (or last) of the gardens on the "Secret Garden" trail is the Jardin de l'Ivresse - the Garden of Intoxication beside the Pont Valentre. The Lot River's sinuous path (mainly downstream from the town) is a prime reason for the quality of the local Cahors wines. With many fine chateaux (mainly south of the river) the area is a delight to travel through - even more so if you want to combine wine, castles and gardens. Although the distances involved are not walkable (unless you are really keen, the route "Vignoble Jardin Cahors" (Vineyard Gardens of Cahors) is a great way to see the wine region. As the publicity rightly states: "behind every great vineyard is a garden" - certainly borne out by many of the vineyards I have visited.
There is a leaflet (available from the tourist office in Cahors and at participating vineyards) which will show you the route. With this you can discover some great gardens, splendid vistas, pretty villages, vineyards and chateaux - and taste and learn something of the history and character of the landscape and its wines. (see http://effeuillage.cahors.free.fr)
Amongst the vineyards featured are Chateau Eugenie (try their Reserve de l'Aieul); Chateau de Chambert (an impressive position); Chateau Latuc and Chateau de Mercues - for more info on Cahors wines and these chateaux see www.frenchduck.co.uk

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Book Recommendation: Hot Sun, Cool Shadow by Angela Murrills
Whilst we are enjoying mediterranean temperatures in the UK, this book may not be so attractive - but come a cooler autumn or colder winter this could be the book to enjoy and indulge in learning more about the Languedoc, its wines and food.
"An unabashed celebration of the joys of food and cooking, Hot Sun, Cool Shadow follows the story of award-winning food-writer Angela Murrills and the artist Peter Matthews, who travel together to the southerly French region of Languedoc. The Languedoc is famed for its landscape, legendary gastronomical pleasures and rich culture, stretching from the Rhone to the Pyrennees, it is one of Europe's oldest provinces and one of it's most fertile regions. Hot Sun, Cool Shadow, is a vivid account of their quest for the finest wines, cuisine and characters. Along the way they discover ancient houses, take in the scenery that inspired great artists like Henry Matisse, retrace the steps of Toulouse-Lautrec, and recreate typical dishes of the region; finally settling themselves in this staunchly independent agricultural region, where life moves at a steady pace under the mellow sun. Hot Sun, Cool Shadow includes over eighty illustrations by renowned artist Peter Matthews. "

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Yet another wine festival - this time at Cairanne (84 Vaucluse, Provence) one of the southern Cotes du Rhone Villages on Sunday 23 July 2006 - northwest of Orange - see map
Wine Festivals are abundant between mid July and early September for several reasons - firstly there tend to be lots of tourists around to imbibe and hopefully buy some wine; secondly it is an opportunity to get rid of the previous year's wine before the new vintage arrives in a month or so; and it is not a busy time for the vigneron - no pruning to do, the cellar should be quiet with last year's wines settled, and the vats clean and empty for the new vintage - maybe a bit of spraying to do, or leaf cutting to let the sun ripen the berries. It is indeed often the time when winemakers grab a week or so holiday before the hard work of harvesting and wine fermentation begin.

In Cairanne the wines are predominantly red in the Rhone style using Grenache (50% minimum), with Syrah or Mourvèdre making up at least a further 20%. Rosé and white wines are also produced. The reds are generally of good quality, Cairanne being above the valley floor on the higher land, so better drainage and more mineral character.

The Co-operative de Cairanne tends to dominate production, but does produce some very good wines.

Leon Stolarski Fine Wines has a good selection including one of my old favourites from Domaine Rabasse-Charavin: "Rich, baked fruit aromas, with hugely concentrated flavours of blackcurrants, damsons, fruitcake and spice, gentle tannins and a note of liquorice on the finish. World class. "17/20 points. Drink 2005-12. Mellow, lively, racier than many 2001s with even a hint of spritz but pretty strapping." (Jancis Robinson, December 2005). "

For more info see www.vignerons-cairanne.com

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Red and White will be the colours which will dominate the Basque city of Bayonne (64 Pyrenees-Atlantiques, Aquitaine) from 2- 5 August 2006. On the river Adour just a few miles from the Atlantic coast and forming a small conurbation with Biarritz and Anglet (referred to as B-A-B) this is the heart of Basque country. This feels a quite different part of France - the language and accent and road signs all take on a different feel, and the local architecture is quite distinctive - influenced I suspect by the proximity of the Pyrenees which dominate both sides of the border.
We found it delightful - especially St Jean-de-Luz.
However, the Bayonne festival provides a wide range of attractions, from concerts, dancing parades and cow racing!! in addition to its other main attractions such as Bayonne Ham, Chocolate and Honey!
For more info see www.bayonne-tourisme.com/

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The Aniane Wine Festival (34 Herault, Languedoc) (Salon des Vins d'Aniane en coeur du Languedoc) in the heart of the Languedoc takes place 22-23 July 2006.
Aniane is best known for two things - the home of Mas de Daumas Gassac (Aimé Guibert), and for a famous battle to keep out the US multinational Robert Mondavi who wanted to make wines in the village - mind you not just the usual run of Languedoc wines, but wines which could sell for £40+ per bottle- a battle won by an unlikely coalition of local farmers, ecologists, hunters, and communists who succeeded in killing the ambitious $7.5 million plan to acquire 120 acres of prime grape-growing land on an untamed Mediterranean hillside.
Mas de Daumas Gassac "produces an internationally renowned red. The 76-year-old Aimé Guibert eschews pesticides, harvests his grapes by hand, and traces the origins of his vines back to Palestine at the time of Jesus Christ. "The Mondavis will end up destroying our traditional artisans who make wine, just like McDonald's is destroying French gastronomy," Guibert thunders."
It is a tough call, especially when you consider the plight of much of the French wine industry - good growers such as Guibert will always succeed, but the bulk growers who sell into the co-operatives are struggling to find a market for their "vins ordinaires". Mondavi may have overturned traditions and dominated the local economy, but would probably have brought prosperity and employment.
However, this would be a good opportunity to taste the wines of the region - 30 or so producers will be showing their wines (including Mas de Daumas Gassac, Chateau Capion - and there is also an introduction to wine tasting for the uninitiated.
For more info see www.ville-aniane.com

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Sunday 30 July 2006 (Sunday 29 July in 2007) sees the annual Fete des Vins at Bonny-sur-Loire.(45 Loiret, Centre), Although close to both Sancerre and Pouilly-sur-Loire, the wines here are from the Coteaux Giennois (from near the town of Gien on the Loire) - whites from Sauvignon Blanc and Chenin, reds from Pinot Noir and Gamay. Chenin Blanc is the typical white grape variety in the Loire Valley wines - especially in the main section of the river - Bonny is on the cusp between the dominance of Chenin Blanc and Sauvignon from up-river vineyards such as Sancerre.
Although they lack the finesse of their more famous neighbours, they are good little wines and represent good value.
See map

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Marciac (32 Gers, Midi-Pyrenees between Auch and Pau) would usually be one of those small southern French towns you'd pass through without too much thought, except in the first 2 weeks of August every year when it goes Jazz Crazy with its Festival of Jazz in Marciac (or JIM as it is known to the fans!) (see map)
A musician friend of mine plans much of his summer around being there every year, as this was a festival started by Wynton Marsalis which has some top name jazz artistes appearing. Are you tempted by "Chano Dominguez's flamenco piano" or the "Andalusian-Caribbean duende of Tomatito and Michel Camilo"? Then there is Wynton Marsalis and Jamie Cullen to name but a few.
It sems such a contradiction - a very provincial, rather staid french town being invaded by all kinds of "foreign" music from traditions from all over the world - it sounds magical and I keep promising we shall go one year. Plus there are free concerts on the last weekend (Sun 13 - Tue 15 August) - see www.jazzinmarciac.com

Marciac is also in the centre of the Cotes de Gascogne wine region - fresh fruity gluggable dry whites and rosé, and some soft reds with backbone - top producers include the huge Plaimont Co-operative who produce consistently good wines - or for something on a smaller, more individual scale try the excellent wines from the Kitcheners at Domaine de Lauroux

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On Bastille Day it seems appropriate to feature Garlic, so quintessentially French!

The small village of St Clar in Gascony (32 Gers, Midi-Pyrenees) south east of Lectoure is known locally as the Garlic Capital of Gascony, and every summer celebrates with a day of festivities and a market. (see map)
This year it is on Thursday 17 August 2006, when you can behold a great country market (inevitably with stalls selling white and pink garlic, but also other local produce such as duck and goose products); a competition to create the most amazing structures out of garlic; and more bulbs of pristince garlic than you could eat in a lifetime! Music and street entertainers weave in and out of the visitors, and at lunchtime an impressive meal is served (booking required) under the market hall with huge pans of mussels being cooked on massive log fires as a starter! (see picture).

There is a market here every Thursday morning, so if you cannot make the Festival you can still get a "taste" of the place - plus there is a Garlic Museum (I kid you not!) - see www.mairie-st-clar.com/http://www.mairie-st-clar.com/

Meanwhile over at Lautrec between Gaillac and Castres (81 Tarn, Midi-Pyrenees - see map) they have their Pink Rose Festival (Fête de l'ail rose) on Friday 4 August 2006 which follows a similar programme, except that here the lunch is a giant free Garlic Soup, and the competitions include the epic struggle for the best Garlic Tart and the longest tress of garlic (the record to beat being 21.66 metres!). The Ail Rose de Lautrec is protected by an IGP (Protected Geographical Indication, a European certification of origin) and benefits from a Label Rouge quality certification and is recognised for its aromatic and subtle taste, sweeter and milder than the white garlic.See www.ailrosedelautrec.com

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The Tour de France came down off the Pyrenees briefly yesterday for a stage finish in the town of Pau (64 Pyrenees-Atlantiques, Aquitaine) at the heart of the Jurancon wine region.
Jurancon is a small village just west of Pau on the Grave de Pau (river), all set in the foothills of the Pyrenees. Only producing white wines from grapes such as Gros Manseng, Petit Manseng
and Petit Courbu these tend to be highly aromatic intense wines.
You have to be a little careful though, as both dry (very dry) and sweet wines are produced - so if you want a dry Jurancon always select Jurancon Sec AC, otherwise you can end up with anything from a sweet table wine through to a rich dessert wine!
My preference is for the dry white, which can be exquisite - full of fresh citrussy flavour, refreshing and long in the mouth, At the other extreme some of the oaked dessert or late harvest wines made from 100% Petit Manseng are pure nectar and well worth seeking out - especially in the half-bottle or 50cl sizes.
We imported the wines of Domaine de Cinquau from Artiguelouve (west of Jurancon) who produce an excellent range of Jurancon wines at good prices. They welcome visitors to the domaine (see map) and have a great tasting room with views over the slopes of the Pyrenees. Their website has full information on the wines plus details of where to buy their wines in France (including Paris and Dunkerque) - but unfortunately their wines are not available in the UK at present.

Other good producers include Chateau Jolys and Domaine Cauhapé. Devigne Wines stock Cauhapé's Jurancon Moeulleux, Ballet d'Octobre.

Oddbins stock a Jurançon Sec - Jardin de Mailis (£5.99).

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A quick check around the better independent merchants selling French wines in the UK, reveals some good offerings, such as 15% off French wines from Nick Dobson Wines - including Chablis, Burgundy, Macon, and Beaujolais from now until the end of July.

Leon Stolarski has some new Languedoc wines in stock, including some decent Chardonnay and Merlot in 5-litre wine boxes - the same wine that goes is also sold by the bottle - ideal for summer picnics, barbecues etc. I reckon there is scope for more wine boxes to be available - the big brands tend to rip you off with pretty ordinary plonk, whilst most vineyards in France sell quality wines either "en vrac" -. i.e. on draught for your cubitainer or empty Evian bottle - or in vacuum packed "Bag-in-Box" (the french term!) - OK so you will not get the top cuvées which might benefit from bottle age, but as most wines are drunk young that should not be a problem. Sure, the quality will deteriorate if you leave if only 1/3 full for weeks on end, but generally if good wine goes in, good wine come out! Usually I find the problem is that it gets drunk faster than the same quantity in bottle, as it is just too easy to just pour another glass!

Meanwhile Devigne Wines have a range of new wines from Jura and Arbois, including Vin Jaune and Vin de Paille - something you don't often see in the UK.

Pic Wines have a couple of Rosé discovery cases from the Languedoc available, and on the basis of having recently tasted some other wines on their list, these can be recommended without hesitation. I really do reckon Rosé wines are getting better and better - especially if you remember that they are in fact a style of red wine (from the same grapes) and not some compromise for those who cannot choose between red and white wines. And, although they are ideal for summer, don't expect these to be light and inconsequential picnic wines - the best rosés are seriously good drinking with real depth of flavour and nuance.

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Although predominantly associated with fine white wines such as Riesling and Gewurztraminer, Alsace also produces red wine from the Pinot Noir, the Burgundy grape.
Pinot Noir tends to flourish in the slightly cooler climes, which is why you'll seldom find it in the Languedoc. It tends to be more of a dark rosé in colour, and cheap examples can be a bit thin - so it is not necessarily the best wine to come out of Alsace.
However, you can get a chance to try some out at the Pinot Noir Festival in Rodern (68 Haut Rhin, Alsace-Lorraine) 15/16 July 2006- see map. The village is on the Alsace Wine route - and even has a "rue du Pinot Noir"!
see www.alsace-route-des-vins.com

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Every summer the town of Cahors (46 Lot, Midi-Pyrenees) hosts its Blues Festival (not Fete des Bleus!) and this year it runs from 16 -22 July 2006.
Cahors is one of our favourite french towns nestled in the bend of the River Lot and now mercifully by-passed by both the N20 and new A20 autoroute between Limoges and Montauban/Toulouse.
In addition to the main events and concerts for serious Blues enthusiasts, this year will see more street and café blues music to waft you through the town (Le Blues au coeur de la ville). I'm not really very knowledgeable about Blues music, although I enjoy it when I'm in the mood - so "Freddy Red and the Hot Rails" or "The Hoochie Coochie Men" don't mean much to me - but I do remember "Canned Heat" ("On the Road Again") a legendary American Blues/Rock band from the late 60s who are appearing on Wednesday 19 July - see www.cahorsbluesfestival.com/ for more details of the festival.

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One of the many joys of Paris is the plethora of wonderful delicatessens and food markets where you can indulge your passion for gourmet dishes - whether it be just looking - or better buying for a picnic or supper in your hotel room.

Our favourites tend to be around the Place de la Madeleine where Fauchon and Hediard lurk in one corner of the square. Their window and counter displays are mouthwatering - and some of their prices make the eyes water too! This is Haute-Couture food - the Harrods and Fortnum & Mason foodhalls of Paris.

The other irrestible magnet must be the market in rue Cler in the 7th Arondissement (see map) not far from the Invalides and Eiffel Tower. Here you will find market stalls and shops with a wondrous array of cheeses. charcuterie, fish, meat, fruit, vegetables, wine and prepared dishes - all a wonderful panorama of sights and smells. Perhaps we should stay longer next time and rent an apartment so we can try some of these wonderful dishes in comfort.

Pierre Rival's book Gourmet Shops of Paris: An Epicurean Tour offers a comprehensive guide to food shops across Paris, including some hidden gems that most of us would not find without a recommendation!

See Cheap4Ferries for some of the best prices across the Channel -

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Wine Discoveries

Wine Discoveries offers "Great Wines from Small Producers" - and was born "out of a frustration - not being able to find interesting wines in the £5 to £10 price range" - good selection particularly Languedoc, Rhone, Loire - based in East Sussex but good value and low delivery charges nationwide - see www.winediscoveries.co.uk
Wine Discoveries
Unit 7, Old Factory Buildings, Battenhurst Road, Stonegate, East Sussex TN5 7DU
t: 01580 200900
f: 0870 1321259

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The Independent (Sat 8 July 2006) has a very good guide to French beaches, and rightly draws attention to some fine beaches both east and west of Calais, which are often overlooked by Brits who tend to head southwards in search of better weather. The Normandy beaches west of Caen are also delightful, whilst the Atlantic coast offers a huge variety of wonderful beaches from Brittany down to the Spanish border.

The Mediterranean beaches are well-known, but you may not know of the Toulouse Beach or Toulouse Plage, where theu have adapted the Parisien approach, albeit on an island in the middle of the Garonne River - see map. Open from 7th July to 15 August 2006 there is a beach, with beach sports, picnic area etc - see www.ot-toulouse.fr

Also getting in on the act is the town of Brive-la-Gaillard (19 Corrèze, Limousin) albeit in the centre of town not on a river. The usual components are present - i.e. a sandy beach, swimming, games, sports etc, but with the addition of some exciting evening events such as flamenco, salsa, open-air cinema and an appearance by the Drummers of Burundi. Open from 21-29 July 2006 - see www.brive-tourisme.com

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With the very hot weather across Europe this week (even in the 30s in the UK) there follows the inevitable storms from as far apart as Domaine de Lauroux in Gascony in the deep Southwest to Champagne in the north east.
I continue to find Benoit Tarlant's video blog at Champagne Tarlant most entertaining and informative - and this week you can feel for him as he watches a torrential hail storm devastate his vines. It's in French, but you don't need to be a linguist to understand his anguish at watching the torrential rain wash away soil into treacherous muddy slurry, and then to see the resultant damage which the hail does to the vines, slicing through leaves and berries.
In the UK the wines of Champagne Tarlant are stocked by Verbeer Manor in Sussex.

According to www.spittoon.biz a storm of a different kind has afflicted the major Beaujolais producer, Georges Duboeuf. The self-styled "King of the Beaujolais" and supreme marketeer has been found guilty of fraud for "fiddling the country's strict grading and labelling system and mixing cheap, average and high-quality grapes from different vineyards to conceal a bad harvest in 2004". Not really the sort of publicity that Beaujolais needs, as its reputation has declined over recent years, largely due to the over-priced, over-hyped and often undrinkable Beaujolais Nouveau - it is not proper or even decent wine most of the time and was invented to improve the cashflow of greedy winemakers and negociants. This silly marketing gimmick obscures the fact that as well as nice juicy, jammy reds Beaujolais does also produce some really serious Gamay wines such as Chénas AC which deserve more attention. Personal favourites are the wines from Paul Beaudet and Pierre Ferraud. In the UK, www.nickdobsonwines.co.uk stocks an interesting and comprehensive range of Beaujolais and Maconnais wines.

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Every summer Paris turns a bit of itself into Paris-Plage (Paris Beach) when part of the Pompidou Expressway along the banks of the River Seine are cleard of traffic and a mad-made beach created with tons of sand to create a tropical island atmosphere in what is a noisy, fume-laden, congested major artery through the centre of Paris. This has proved very popular with Parisiens and visitors alike.
However from 6 July 2006 there is another reason to take your bikini to Paris - with the opening of the Piscine Josephine Baker, a swimming pool floating on the Seine! It all looks very moderm with plenty of deck space, a huge pool, café and gym etc - all moored on the Seine on the Quai de la Gare in the 13th Arondissement - just by the Bibliotheque Nationale - see map.
The pool is named after Josephine Baker a famous cabaret artiste from the USA who made her name in Paris with sensual and scantily-dressed (or scantily undressed) performances from the 1920s onwards. She reportedly appeared on one ocassion with a skirt made from 16 bananas strung together!
Whislt the dress code will be less formal than normal for Paris, I suspect any attempt to emulate Josephine will not be welcomed.

Interestingly this is not the first floating swimming pool on the Seine - the Piscine Deligny was built in 1805 but unfortunately sank in 1995.

For more info on the PIscine Josephine Baker - see www.mairie13.paris.fr

Posted by frenchduck at 6:17 AM | Permalink

I am almost ashamed to admit that I had not tasted a wine from the Minervois la Lavinière Appellation before - and yet it was created in 1985. It is admittedly a very small area around the village of la Lavinière (11 Aude, Languedoc) in the hills above most of the rest of the Minervois appellation (see map).
The wines of Minervois are very likeable - for many years we imported the wines of Chateau Gibalaux-Bonnet at Laure-Minervois - all decent wines - especially the Cuvée Prieuré. A typical Languedoc blend of Syrah, Grenache, Mourvedre and Carignan (percentages depending on the cuvée) for the reds - pleasant refreshing dry whites and some rosé.
However, that did not prepare me for the sheer intensity of the red Minervois la Lavinière AC from Domaine Piccinini - Cuvée Line et Laetitia 2002 - a gorgeously concentrated mouthful, full of rich ripe fruit and structure - Syrah (40%), Grenache Noir (20%), Mourvèdre (40%) - and yet without excessive tannin.
As a small appellation (only a handful of producers) they seriously guard the quality of the wines, both by some strict controls on the blend and yield, but also insisting on 15 months ageing before going on sale, and with 3 tastings before being granted the Appellation label. The vineyards are on the higher land and benefit from good sun during the day alternating with cool nights - all on pretty poor soils with low rainfall, so the roots have to dig deep to get water.

The occasion was a tasting of wines from the Languedoc which I provided for a branch of the Yorkshire Sommeliers - a network of serious wine tasting groups in Yorkshire. I had chosen the wines from Pic Wines, for 2 reasons:-
1) I am somewhat confused by the plethora of appellations in the Languedoc, and doubt whether in a blind tasting I could easily idenitfy a Minervois from a Corbières or a Coteaux du Languedoc. - and I suspect the quality of the producer is more important than the appellation. And
2) Pic Wines operate differently from traditional wine merchants (or even internet wine merchants) in that they are based in the region and ship direct from the Languedoc to your door - i.e. they have no physical UK presence.
Well, the tasting probably proved my first point, as there were some stunning wines in the selection, but probably not necessarily typical of their appellations. On the second point, the quality of the wines was excellent (as was the service and delivery) - and by checking with other suppliers, the prices of those wines which are available elsewhere in the UK were on the whole no more expensive from Pic Wines (indeed some were slightly cheaper). Plus delivery charges are very reasonable (£5 for a case of 12 or more).

For more on Domaine Piccinini see the slightly deranged website at www.domaine-piccinini.com or the more informative (and in English) website for Pic Wines.
And a comment from Pic Wines:-
"Jean Christophe Piccinini was born and bred in La Livinière in a winemaking family. He set up his own cellar in 1990, two years after the creation of the AOC Minervois La Livinière, after winemaking studies in Montpellier and stints of winemaking in Canada and Hungary. We have been fans of his wines for some years now, but only got to meet J-C at the Vinisud wine fair held in February 2006. Slightly reserved and a touch intimidating to begin with, Jean Christophe is a straight-talking, generous character with a passion for making great wine. We were impressed by the consistent quality of his wines across the board.."

Posted by frenchduck at 5:25 AM | Permalink | Comments (1)

The English have a real love/hate relationship with France, despising their garlic, Gauloises and Frogs Legs yet many spending their holidays in France and romantic weekends in Paris.
In many years of selling French wines I have come across all sorts of prejudice, even to the extent of pouring French wine down the drain in protest at the French refusal to buy British Beef or other implied insults.

But for once the English nation is united in support of the French in beating the nasty Portuguese in World Cup Football. (For those of you not following this story, those rotten, sneaky Portuguese robbed the England team of victory in the quarter-finals, mainly through cheating, diving and forcing Wayne Rooney to commit a foul which led to him being sent off!)

However, tonight the French thrashed the fiendish Portuguese (well, just beat them by 1-0 to be honest). Tonight the Entente Cordiale is as strong as ever - you could even imagine Tony Blair giving Jacques Chirac a hug! I almost wish I was selling French wine again!!

ALLEZ LES BLEUS!!

Posted by frenchduck at 9:54 PM | Permalink | Comments (1) | TrackBacks (0)

For another way of experiencing the Tour de France cycle race, and as an example of how internet technology is advancing, see Google's Live Tour Tracker., where you can see a map of where the Tour is going on the day, and track its progress in real time (usually the race starts about midday and finishes sometime after 5.00pm (UK time). You can also check out the "biostats" of selected riders - heart rate, stress - and how fast they are going.

More Tour technology is availabe with ITV's daily podcast of the Tour at http://download.itv.com/tour/podcast.xml or www.itv.com/tour in addition to the daily coverage on ITV3 or ITV4 every evening and some live coverage at weekends.

Today (Wed 5th July) the Tour heads out of Belgium and southwest towards the town of St Quentin (02 Aisne, Picardie), self-styled Capital of Haut-Picardie, and twinned with Rotherham in the UK. My recollection is of a rather unexciting northern town with an impressive Basilica dominating the town centre. This is a vine-free zone!

Posted by frenchduck at 6:59 AM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

You cannot complain about any lack of variety in France - as if the Tour de France, World Cup, and a multitude of festivals throughout the country were not enough, the northern town of Douai(59 Nord, Nord-Pas de Calais) holds its GIants Festival (La fête des Gayants) from Friday to Sunday 7-9 July 2006. Douai is known as the City of Giants (Gayants), which are huge models of a whole family from the 15th and 16th Century. The weekend will feature parades and fireworks and should be an impressive sight,

As many northern towns, Douai has an striking 14th Century Gothic Belfry - but our last visit to the town was disrupted by the very French habit of digging up all the roads in the centre of town making access difficult and blighting the place for weeks.

Douai could be a useful stopover being just over an hour from Calais/Dunkerque/Boulogne and close to the junction of the A1 (Paris-Lille), A2 (Paris-Brussels) and A26 (Calais-Reims) autoroutes.

For more info on Douai and the Festival see www.ville-douai.fr

Posted by frenchduck at 12:22 PM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

On Monday 3 July the Tour de France finishes its stage in the Duchy of Luxembourg. OK, so it's not in France as such, but it shares its southern border with France. One of the "bibles" for French wine enthusiasts is the "Guide Hachette des Vins de France", and at the back of this annual guide is a small section of Swiss wines (not a surprise) but also a section on Luxembourg wines, classified as Moselle Luxembourgeoise. Now as Luexembourg is well north of Alsace and even of Reims, this is a bit of a surprise, until you realise that the main river running along the SE edge of the state is the Moselle (or Mosel in Germany), and it is on the steep east and south-facing slopes of this winding river that the grapes are grown.
The comparison with Alsace is quite appropriate as similar grape varieties and styles are produced, including Gewurztraminer, Riesling, Muscat, Pinot Blanc for the whites - and a little Pinot Noir for the reds. Often there are more local grapes in the blend such as Muller-Thurgau (or Rivaner) and Ebling! So essentially crisp dry fruity wines are the main attraction here.There is also a sparkling Cremant-de-luxembourg which should be interesting as Chardonnay does not feature in the blend.
Luxembourg is a pretty and interesting place to visit, and the especially if you can include a few vineyard visits in your trip.

For more info on Luxembourg - see www.luxembourg.co.uk/

Posted by frenchduck at 6:36 AM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

Yes the Official Tour de France is underway for 2006 - and unfortunately overshadowed by drug scandals and the withdrawal of most of the main contenders from last year. To be fair though, this is not a particularly French problem, but as the Tour de France is the biggest cycling event in the world, it does focus attention.
But then not everyone is keen on the Tour de France and the accompanying ballyhoo - the best thing to do is to follow it a few days later and enjoy some of the places the pass through in rather more peace and tranquility.
The Tour starts this year in Strasbourg, and on Sunday 2 July it passes through the northern part of the Alsace vineyard. Good cycling territory being quite hilly - and hence good for vines. Many of the villages are typically picture-book Alsatian - timber framed buildings with alpine roofs - really very attractive. The best wines tend to be a bit further south (around Riquewihr, Colmar) although Barr and Bergheim have some top producers. Our recommendation is Emile Boeckel at Mittelbergheim, just south of the Tour route.

The other Tour de France underway is the Tour de France à Voile - the sailing Tour de France which cast off in Dunkerque and will head for Saint-Quay Portrieux - Côtes d'Armor (Brittany) by the weekend of 8/9 July 2006 by way of Dieppe and Le Havre - for more info see www.tourvoile.fr

Posted by frenchduck at 9:12 AM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

It comes as a bit of a surprise at first to realise that the Somme does not automatically have to be associated with the horrors of the First World War (la Grande Guerre), but does in reality apply to a French département, a river and a bay where "normal" and pleasant life continues as it has done for decades before and after.
The river has always been famous for fishing - along with the "Etangs" or ponds/small lakes which pepper the area. Indeed the département is predominantly rural and full of nature reserves. The Bay of the Somme, where the river Somme meets the English Channel (or la Manche) is famous for its wild bird sanctuary and habitat, The flatish coastal strip also makes ideal cycling territory, especially as there are many kilometres of well-signposted and surfaced cycling paths.
Personally I do not much like the main towns - Amiens in particular as I was stranded there for 2 days a few years back when the car broke down on my way back to the UK. So I probably was not in the best frame of mind - but it does have a magnificent Gothic Cathedral which is unfortunately overshadowed (almost literally) by a ghastly tall concrete tower - le Tour Perret - built after the War as a symbol of modernism.
However, there are some pleasant small towns/resorts along the coast such as Eu, le Tréport and le Crotoy.

As for the battlefields, this July marks the 90th Anniversary of the Somme which lasted for over 140 days and which claimed so many lives. The biggest memorial is at Thiepval (see picture) which is a memorial to the missing - over 70,000 whose bodies were never found. It is not a particularly likeable structure, but the size of it is impressive (never truly conveyed in a photo) and its meaning uncompromising. Visit on a cold dreary November day for best effect!

Nearby is the battlefield of Beaumont-Hamel, which provides some excellent insights into the reality of the battle, and especially of the brave exploits of the men of Nova Scotia in Canada who fought so heroically so far from their homeland. There is a very good visitor centre, and if you have only limited time this is the place to visit.
At Peronne there is the Historial de la Grande Guerre see www.historial.org/ which is an impressive museum and reference centre for the war, but lacking the immediacy of a real battlefield.

The opening chapters of Sebastien Faulk's "Birdsong" captures some of the tranquility of the region in the period immediately before the war - the rest of the book providing a very real sense of the realities of fighting in Picardy.

For more the visiting the Somme see www.somme-tourisme.com

Posted by frenchduck at 7:46 AM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

July is the time to enjoy the glorious sight and perfume of Lavender in Provence. France Monthly's monthly email newsletter has tons of info on touring the lavender routes of Provence, with advice on routes to follow, places to stay - and background on this emblematic herb.
For a map of the Lavender routes see www.routes-lavande.com. Also on the site you can download (télécharger) a brochure in English on the routes and places to visit.
However, beware that the Vaulcuse déartement on how to cope with the summer heat - recommeding everyone, especially the elderly, to keep their houses cool, spend several hours a day in a cool environment, and drink plenty of water!

If you cannot get to France to see the Lavender, you could instead see an impressive display of lavenders in the UK at Wolds Way Lavender just off the A64 east of Malton on the way towards Scarborough. They also have installed a still, so you may be able to se something of the distillation process which produces the essential oil from the lavender flowers.

Posted by frenchduck at 8:22 AM | Permalink | Comments (2) | TrackBacks (0)