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The launch of Domaine Leduc-Frouin's new website last week (www.leduc-frouin.com) prompted another look at Loire pinks, an area which I have always found confusing. Antoine Leduc produces some excellent rosés, and I have been a recent convert to the pink stuff. The more that rosés are understood as variants on red wines, rather than blends of red and white, their potential for complexity and finesse become evident. And, neither are they the afterthought or lesser quality juices from the production of red wine - indeed they are sometimes the first gentle pressing of the red grapes, or are processed quite separately. The secret is to ensure that the grape juice (usually white) only spends a short time in contact with the crushed grape skins, which impart colour and tannin to the wine. So often you may seem subtitles like "Vin d'une nuit" indicating that they have only had skin contact at cool temperatures overnight. In some ways more skill is required to make a good rosé than straightforward reds or whites.
The Loire was of course best known in the UK for producing some pretty ghastly sweet insipid rosé wines, before our tastes were educated and we became more demanding of good quality - and Loire rosés like Mateus rosé and Hirondelle passed into our wine tasting adolescence.
However, given time things change and improve - the only thing that does not always help is the French appellation system which offers 3 different generic appellations (excluding more specific ones like Chinon rosé) - i.e Rosé de Loire, Rosé d'Anjou and Cabernet d'Anjou AC

Rosé d'Anjou is made in the area north and south of Angers (59 Maine-et-Loire, Val de Loire) and can be made from Grolleau, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Côt (malbec), Gamay and Pineau d'Aunis. However it can be made as a dry or sweet wine, still or sparkling with secondary fermentation - useful!

Rosé de Loire on the otherhand can be made across a wide area of the Loire Valley including Anjou, Saumur and Touraine, grapes including Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Gamay, Grolleau, Pineau d'Aunis and Pinot.However, it is specified as a still dry wine.

Cabernet d'Anjou is perhaps the most defined, coming from the area north and south of Angers and made only from Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon - and it is always a sweet still wine.

Although there is some administrative logic behind these classifications, they do not really help the consumer very much when hunting for a bottle off the wine merchant's shelves!

Domaine Leduc-Frouin's Cabernet d'Anjou is a definite recommendation - despite the fact that it is sweetish. The secret is not to approach the wine with any prejudice - the nose is stunning, full of wonderful summer fruit character, the colour of the wine in the glass seems to be multi-layered hues of pink, and in the mouth the real complexity of the wine with its delicate intermingling of fruit and perfume is quite captivating - followed by a touch of fruit sweetness on the finish.

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Posted by frenchduck at 6:44 AM | Permalink

If you are in to flower arranging, chateaux and/or wine you could visit the Chateau de Brissac (49 Maine et Loire, Val de Loire) from 8 - 10 April 2006 when they celebrate "Paradis Fleurs".
50 nationally and internationally-known talented flower-arranging artists are challenged to create a romantic table for two within the theme of marriage - all within the magnificent rooms of this 7-storey, 200 room, 16th Century Chateau. Before leaving, you'll be invited to vote for your favourite floral arrangement if you wish - see www.chateau-brissac.fr At least the displays will be inside, so there is no problem if the weather is poor.
Situated a few miles south of the Loire near Angers, Brissac is in the Anjou wine-making region - not far from our favourite Anjou producer Domaine Leduc-Frouin at Sousigné, near Martigné-Briand.
Indeed Brissac is one of the Anjou-Villages, qualifying for the AC Anjou-Villages Brissac. The "-Villages" tag generally signifies a higher quality level than the remaining appellation (the same applies in Beaujolais, Cotes du Rhone etc) and beyond specifying a more delimited area of production, the rules on the yield and age of the vines are more restrictive - and generally the older the vines and the lower the yield, the more complex and developed the wine.
Furthermore, the Chateau de Brissac has its own vineyard producing reds (Anjou and Anjou-Villages Brissac) and a sweet Rosé d'Anjou made from Gamay and Grolleau (sometimes spelt as GrosLot, although pronounced virtually the same!)

in addition to visiting the Chateau, admiring the floral displays and testing the wine, you could also stay a night in one of the impressive bedrooms at the chateau for about £250 a night (per couple)!

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Bayonne (64 Pyrenees-Atlantique, Aquitaine) is in the middle of the Basque country in deepest southwest France. just 30 minutes from the Spanish border and 10 minutes from the coast and Biarritz.It is famous for its Bayonne Ham, which is similar in style to Parma ham from Italy.
Since 1942, Bayonne celebrates its Ham Festival during Holy week (13-15 April 2006). when the farmers come to the bank of the river (The Nive) to sell their orange-coloured air-dried ham with red peppers.
It is an area of strange and wonderful contrasts - the Basque influence on architecture, food and language is evident everywhere, except nearby Biarritz which has a rather faded Eastbourne-like elegance. We much preferred the next coastal town south - St Jean de Luz, which seemed less touristy and was a delightful blend of new and old. It is a stunning area to visit with the mountains and the sea - the western end of the Pyrenees seem almost to fall into the Atlantic. In the same way that the French part of Basque country seems quite un-French, so the Spanish side has a different feel from the rest of Spain - and you can understand a little of why the Basqu e people feel that it is one area, artificially divided by an international frontier. However, with the EU transit from France into Spain and vice versa is usually seemless, unless there is some security alert or local farmers from either side chose to block the frontier to get publicity for some grievance. With the recently announced ceasefire announced by the Basque separatists and the recent unrest in France over race, unemployment and labour laws, the latter is probably the bigger threat!

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Posted by frenchduck at 7:51 AM | Permalink

Amboise (37, Indre et Loire, Loire Valley) in the Touraine celebrates in annual wine festival in the imposing surroundings of the Chateau d'Amboise 15-17 April 2006.

The relevant appellation is Touraine Amboise AC, situated between Tours and Blois on the Loire, and includes still and sparkling whites made from Chenin blanc, rose and red wines made from Cabernet Franc and Gamay.

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Posted by frenchduck at 8:26 AM | Permalink

Coulommiers is both a cheese and a town - in 77 Seine-et-Marne, Ile de France, 40 odd miles east of Paris. The town celebrates its cheese in a grand cheese and wine festival from 7-10 April 2006 - cheese and wine tasting, competition for the best cheese, competition for the best cheese eater, concert, exhibition etc.
See www.foire-fromages-et-vins.com

Coulommiers is a soft cheese, essentially a small Brie, made from raw cow's milk. The more one investigates the more one discovers - as there is Brie de Meaux, Brie Fermier, Brie de Melun, Brie de Coulommiers (which is not quite the same as Coulommiers), Brie de Montereau, Brie de Rungis and Brie de Provins. Brie de Meaux is widely regarded as the best, but as with all these styles of cheese, appropriate ripeness is critical.Too young and hard and so much flavour and texture is missing. Ripened too quickly the cheese separates and is lumpy. A good cheesemonger will ask when the cheese is to be eaten and choose appropriately, Getting one that has just the right amount of ooze is critical, in the short period before it gets dissolves too far into a sticky goo which smells of ammonia.

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It is not to everybody's taste, but Arles (13 Bouches-du-Rhone, Provence) claims to be the world capital of bull-fighting and the cradle of the sport in France.In the nearby Camargue, more than anywhere else in France, the bull is king.Living in the marshes since antiquity, they are part of the daily life of the region. Traditions and culture revolve around the bulls - both the Camargue bull, bred for "bull running" or the "toro brave" from the Spanish race of bulls which fights in the arenas.

Spanish bullfighting appeared in France in 1701. The restoration of the Arles Roman arena in 1825 allowed for the organization of the "free running" or "Camargue running". The first bullfight in the arena took place in 1830.

The Easter Bullfighting Festival (Feria de Paques), April 14-17 2006 opens the French bullfighting season, attracting 500,000 visitors filling the 60,000 spectator places in the Roman arena and promises to be a tremendously colourful (and noisy) spectacle in stunning surroundings. - For more info see www.arenes-arles.com

Even if you are not tempted by the bull running or bull fights, Arles has an impressive legacy of Roman remains. The major Roman sites, such as the Arena and the Theater, are unique in that they are integrated into the houses and buildings of the town. Van Gogh stayed here in 1888 and 1889, having one of his most prolific periods. After a visit from Gaugin which precipitated an argument he famously cut off part of one his ears in Arles.

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My friends at Domaine Leduc-Frouin in Anjou are rightly pleased with their new website at www.leduc-frouin.com. We at ALLEZ VINS! worked with firstly Chantal, and then her son Antoine for many years - starting in 1989. Two friends and I were on a long wine buying trip around Alsace, Beaujolais and the Loire, and our pre-arranged visit to the Loire was a great disappointment - insipid sweet rose and overpriced bubbly. By chance I recalled another contact I had been given by a French-Canadian wine grower, so we dropped in on Domaine Leduc-Frouin. We were warmly welcomed, but clearly we were being vetted by Madame to see if we were serious or not. From that first visit followed many others, and many orders for their Anjou Blanc Sec, Chardonnay, Anjou Rouge, Anjou-Villages and the stunning Coteaux du Layon.
The domaine is pretty but workmanlike, although they are developing the tufa caves where they age some of their barrel-matured wines.Situated at Sousigne, near Martigne-Briand (49 Maine-et-Loire, Loire Valley) about 20 miles south of Angers they are at the heart of the wine-growing area, which includes the treasured valley of the Layon river. The Coteaux du Layon is a rich dessert wine made from pure Chenin Blanc which unlike the dessert wines in Aquitaine (Sauternes, Saussignac, Monbazillac etc) is not affected by botrytis, although the grapes are late harvested to optimise the concentration of the sugars.
The Anjou reds are predominantly from Cabernet Franc, which can be a difficult grape, but in the better years the Domaine produces some excellently fruity, raspberry reds which are delightful.
In the summer of 2004 Antoine Leduc came over to the UK and hosted a tutored wine-tasting for Allez Vins! customers in Harrogate, and joined the Allez Vins! stand at the Harrogate Wine Fair. The tutored tasting was a huge success, as it is seldom possible to have an informed tasting of these quality wines. Supermarket versions, when available, are often rather bland, whereas Domaine Leduc-Frouin's are always full of character and style.
Antoine, his sister Nathalie and mother Chantal are charming people and always provide a warm welcome - so it is worth a visit to the domaine if you are in the area. www.leduc-frouin.com

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Keywords:Anjou,wine,France,Leduc,Leduc-Frouin,Sousigne,Martigne,briand,loire,layon,coteaux

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No this is not some rogue French menu, but on our meanderings through the web we came across another supplier of wonderful French foodstuffs called French Flavour based in Wrexham, North Wales and offering mail order.
What really took our attention was that apart from Garlic Strings, Duck Pate, Cassoulet, Confit de Canard, Trout, Olives, Foie Gras, Trout Soup, Tapenade, Beer, Olive Oils, Wild Boar and Pork Pate they also stock Guy Cuisset's Saussignac AC, Chateau Grinou..
This small sub-appellation of Bergerac (24 Dordogne, Aquitaine) produces some superb dessert wines. At ALLEZ VINS! we used to stock this delicious sweet wine, which won a Gold and numerous Silver Medals at the Wine Magazine International Wine Challenge.- a lush dessert wine made from botrytised (noble rot) Sémillon grapes (in the same way as Sauternes and Monbazillac) but retaining huge and vibrant fruitiness - fermented and matured in new oak with real skill by Guy Cuisset. "This is a real find from the far reaches of South west France. A cornucopia of dried apricots and fragrant pear flavours with hints of cinnamon and spice. There is a freshness to the acidity that lifts the wine and gives a purity to the great length"

FrenchFlavour.co.uk also stock an interesting selection of French foods seldom seen elsewhere in the UK - some interesting Trout preparations from the Pyrenees, white and smoked garlic strings and a range of interesting ciders from Picardie.

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Chateaumeillant (18 Cher, Centre) celebrates with its wine fair Saturday 15 - Monday 17 April 2006. Close to what is claimed to be the geograpic centre of France, and about 35 miles south of Bourges , this is a little-known and seldom seen wine in the UK. Unlike its nearest neighbours in Sancerre, Menetou-Salon, Quincy and Reuilly which major on great Sauvignon blancs, the wines of Chateaumeillant are red and rose, made from Gamay (the Beaujolais grape), Pinot Noir (the Burgundy grape) and Pinot Gris. As such they are dry, light and refreshing.

The appellation is currently a VDQS (Vin Delimite de Qualite Superieure) which is an classification above Vin de Pays, but below Appellation Controllee (AOC). As such it has to come from a defined local area around Chateaumeillant, and there are limits on the grapes used and their proportions, yield etc. Usually VDQS wines are ultimately upgraded to full AOC status, usually with somewhat tougher constraints on yield and production. Certainly Chateaumeillant is distinctively different from other local wines, but I cannot comment on the quality of the wine having never tasted any, nor can I find any UK stockist. Even Yapp Bros, who are Loire specialists do not stock it, which is ominous. So perhaps someone will fancy a quick jaunt out to taste and report back!?

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Keywords: France, wine, Loire, Centre, Berry,Cher,Chateaumeillant

Posted by frenchduck at 6:04 AM | Permalink

Apparently more glasses of the aniseed-flavoured Pastis are drunk in France every year than glasses of wine!! According to Peter Mayle, author of "A Year in Provence" and other books "the most powerful ingredient in Pastis is not the aniseed or the alcohol - it's the atmosphere!". Although not my favourite author, he is nevertheless accurate here - much like Provence Rose wine, Pastis is a wonderful indulgent beverage when drunk in the warm, sunny climes of southern France - and a much more austere medicinal drink when ventured on a cold winters day in Warwickshire. Pastis is a drink which has within it the sunshine of Provence and southern France.
Initially was orignally developed as a replacement for the legendary and banned Absinthe, which had a very high alcohol content (65-75%) and was made from wormwood - a lethal combination which could have disastrous effects when drunk to excess. The drink even had its own ritual which involved pouring it into a special glass over a sugar cube cradled in a perforated spoon. It is essentially a neutral alcohol flavoured with star anise, green anise, fennel or other aniseed plant. - and it comes in 2 versions - white and yellow and common to both is the impact of adding iced water which turns the liquid cloudy - believed to be where the name "pastis" comes from, meaning "hazy", "mixed" or "confused".
For many visitors, we tend to use the terms Pastis, Ricard or Pernod interchangeably, but the connoisseurs will have distinct preferences and idneitfy significant differences in flavour - notably the extent of licorice flavouring .There are also numerous other brands, many originating from Marseille, such as Pastis 51, Berger , Henri Bardouin and Janot. Some are now flavoured (Lemon Pastis 51 for example).
I do look forward to a summers day sitting on the terrace of a bar with my small glass of Pastis, jug of water (no ice I am told), and watching the world go by - bliss!

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The latest version of the Michelin Red guide to Hotels and Restaurants in France 2006 has just been published.Although Michelin have a deservedly fierce reputation for making or ruining the very top and most expensive restaurants, the famous red guide is nevertheless immensely useful for the more everyday search for a decent hotel or restaurant at very affordable prices. We always have a copy with us on our trips to France, and in over 25 years it as never let us down - most memorably leading us to a superb meal in the less-than-enticing Brasserie de la Gare Routiere (Bus Station bar) in Clermont Ferrand (63 Puy-de-Dome, Auvergne) - sadly no longer listed. That experience also taught another lesson about French restaurants - do not be put off by the external appearance - the surroundings of the bus station were not enticing, but upstairs the restaurant was an oasis of calm, linen tablecloths, attentive service and great food. Another places we have eaten in looked as though it was a factory warehouse - but again inside the atmosphere and food were superb.
The Michelin red guide is not just a list of hotels and restaurants, but their city centre maps of most decent-sized towns has been invaluable (at least before the days of satellite navigation) - and the kids can find out where that car in front comes from (number plate ending in 95 comes from the Val de Oise, Ile de France). Amazon currently have the new guide on offer at a 40% discount - CLICK HERE

Whilst the Red Guide is indispensible on the road, the www.viamichelin.co.uk is superb for planning your trip - good mapping, links to the red guide hotel and restaurant recommendations (once you have registered for free), links to the green tourist guide information, and up-to-date route planning and timing.

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Posted by frenchduck at 9:17 AM | Permalink

6-8 May 2006 Avignon (84 Vaucluse, Provence) celebrates its Rose Festival - Altera Rosa. At the 2005 event more than a thousand different roses were on display, and 30 new species of roses are presented each year. Not only that but the event is held in the magnificent surroundings of the Cloister of Benoit XII in the Palais des Papes, which stands as the mighty symbol of the church?s influence throughout the western Christian world in the 14th century. It is the biggest Gothic palace in all of Europe - see www.palais-des-papes.com
Note that this is a bank holiday weekend in France!

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Avignon Rose Festival in the Palais des Papes in May 2006

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The recently opened A77 autoroute runs from the A6 Autoroute du Soleil at Nemours (77 Seine et Marne, Ile de France) south of Paris due south towards Nevers (58 Nievre, Bourgogne) and eventually Moulins (03 Allier,Auvergne) and offers greatly improved access to the upper Loire, Sancerre, Briare (for the Pont Canal over the Loire) etc.

Most French autoroutes have names and this is known as the Autoroute des Arbres - Autoroute of the Trees. It features a delightful "Jardin des Arbres" rest area which is designed as a "shop window" in which to present a few of the remarkable species from the nearby National Arboretum at Barres. The Société des Autoroutes Paris-Rhin-Rhône, (the company which runs this motorway) then developed a more ambitious idea for the whole of the A77 autoroute: -
small groves of trees and copses have been planted all along the motorway. They are presented as arboretums to attract the attention of travellers.Their density increases then steadily decreases on both sides of the road over the whole route.
Each rest/service area has been named after the species chosen to beautify it including sephora, purple beech, cedar, gum tree, gingko, tulip tree and sequoia which succeed each other along the 101 km route.
It certainly puts the M1 and the likes of Newport Pagnall services to shame - BUT then most French autoroutes are toll roads, and they seldom have the sheer density of traffic which we have to endure in the UK.
For more information on the National Arboretum at Barres which is at Nogent-sur-Vernisson (45 Loiret, Centre) see www.arboretumdesbarres.com . - junction 18.1 off the A77 south of Montargis. The "Jardin des Arbres" rest area is just south of Junction 18.1 on the A77.

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Keywords:autoroute,france,motorway,a77,Loire,Cher,Loiret,Sancerre,Gien,Briare,Moulins,Nevers,Nemours,Vernisson,Nogent,Barres,Arboretum

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Down in the deep South West this month you can enjoy the St Mont wine festival (32 Gers, Midi-Pyrenees) 24-26 March 2006,
"The epic story of Saint-Mont vineyards began in the fourth century BC, when first plants were imported by the Greeks" . In 1050 the Saint-Mont Abbey was founded by Benedictine monks. who often seem to be attracted to wine-making and so the appellation developed and these ‘fine wines from Gascony’ were exported to the United Kingdom as early as the 14th century.
Today the appellation is dominated by the Plaimont Co-operative, one of the best, most innovative co-ops in France, where production is lead by consideration of quality rather than quantity.
Local grape varieties dominate - St Mont reds and rose ae made from Tannat, Pinenc, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon; the whites from Arrufiac, Petit Courbu, Petit and Gros Manseng, Colombard and Ugni-Blanc. The reds tend towards the tannic, albeit with good fruit balance; the whites are fresh and crisp - I have never had a bad wine from Plaimont.
Numerous festivities take place over this weekend, including wine tasting, discovery trails, music and dancing! - see www.plaimont.com

UK stockists include Haynes, Hanson & Clark at Stow-on-the Wold and London.

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Keywords: St Mont, Gers,Plaimont,Stow-on-the-Wold,Midi-Pyrenees

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A new wine route has been established in the middle Loire Valley (Route des Vignobles du Coeur de France), prompted by the opening of the new A77 autoroute to Moulins (running alongside the old N7) which makes Paris less than 2 hours from Sancerre (18 Cher, Centre).
The route actually starts at Gien on the Loire and passes through the Coteaux du Giennois (Gamay and Pinot reds, Sauvignon and Chenin whites); Pouilly-sur-Loire AC (whites unusually made from the Chasselas grape, more frequently used as a table grape); Sancerre, Menetou-Salon, Quincy and Reuilly - all making superb minerally Sauvignon Blanc and some light Pinot Noirs.The route ends near Vierzon and Bourges convenient for the A71 autoroute back to Paris.
There is also another branch of the route near Chateaumeillant, a little-known appellation a little further south, where the main grape is Gamay, balanceded by a little Pinot Noir. This area also produces a very light rose wine, or vins gris (what Americans might call a "blush") which is light, dry, fresh and fruity.

The wine routes are usually well-signposted to pass all the main domaines, and this would be quite a delightful trip even if you were not interested in wine - Gien has a magnificent chateau by the Loire, Sancerre is a hill-top town surrounded by a dramatic landscape of vineyards, and Bourges is well worth visiting for its Gothic cathedral and medieval centre.

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Keywords:Loire,Centre,Cher,Pouilly,Gien,Giennois,Chateaumeillant,Sancerre,Quincy,Reuilly,Menetou,Salon,Bourges,Vierzon,a77.a71

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We reported a few weeks back on the Paris-Roubaix cycle race which is next to be run on Sunday 9 April 2006. For a real taste of what this arduous race is all about see Max Wooldridge's article on the Independent on Sunday
Also in the Independent Harriet O'Brien tells you where to shop for Lingerie in Paris as one of her European City break recommendations.Antony Rose in the Independent recommends a classy Corbieres from the Languedoc (Aude) for the weekend (great for grills!).
Over at the Guardian/Observer Victoria Moore enthuses about a Sauvignon du Haut Poitou drunk in a shot glass. Jane McQuitty in the Times recommends a couple of well-priced Bordeaux reds, and on the subject of screwcap wines recommends a red and white Bordeaux and an exceedingly good Beaujolais.
In the Telegraph
Jonathan Ray gives a useful introduction to Burgundy, explaining why there is so much variation in style, whilst Anthony Peregrine looks at Paris through the prism of Dan Brown's book "The Da Vinci Code"

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Time was when we used to drink bottled water in France because we did not trust French tap water to be clean and safe. Now French mains water is as safe as anywhere, and yet we are drinking so many more millions of litres of bottled water, even at home. Of course, despite the very healthy image pushed by some extravagant marketing campaigns emphasising freshness, purity and detox, many consider that our passion for bottled water is environmentally unsound - the energy used to extract, bottle, produce the plastic bottles and transport the water adds up to a massive environmental cost - compared to tap water which is (still) much cheaper and has little environmental impact.
However, I for one still enjoy some bottled waters, so here is a quick guide to the main contenders.

Evian (74, Haute-Savoie, Rhone-Alpes) is a still clean tasting mineral water that comes from the French Alps, taking 15 years to be naturally filtered through a glacier and sand deposits deep within a mountain. Evian-les-Bains is also a major town/resort/spa on the south side of Lake Geneva an area of the map that would be easy to assume is in Switzerland. - .see www.evian.fr

Badoit is a light natural sparkling mineral water with a more distinctive minerally taste which comes up from a deep water table through a 500-metre fissure in the local granite.It is more of an acquired taste with its taste of sodium bicarbonate and fluoride, but is rated by many connoisseurs as the best water for a restaurant meal.The water comes from St Galmier (42 Loire, Rhone-Alpes) in the Massif Centrale, near the source of the Loire between Roanne and St Etienne, west of Lyon - see www.danone.com

Perrier is perhaps the most notorious brand, who were exposed for claiming that their water was naturally sparkling, when in fact the water is carbonated the claim is now that it is "fortified with gas from the spring" - CO2 is tapped at great depths, before it reaches the mineral water table, and is used to boost the spring water. It comes from Vergeze (30 Gard, Languedoc). It is perhaps the most heavily marketed water in its distinctive bottle shape, which has been a French icon for many years - see www.perrier.com

Vittel comes from the the town of Vittel (88 Vosges, Alsace-Lorraine) in the Vosges mountains in Eastern France (south of Nancy) and is a still natural mineral water with low mineral level - see www.vittel-water.co.uk/

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Posted by frenchduck at 7:02 AM | Permalink

24-26 March 2006 Avignon (84 Vaucluse, Provence) stages its vintage car exhibition which takes place in the Parc des Expositions, featuring 900 vehicles, 250 exhibitors and 75 clubs - as if you needed another excuse to visit the City of the Popes, Provence, sunshine, olives, wine.........

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The Abbey on Mont Saint Michel (50 Manche, Normandie) at the bottom of the Cherbourg peninsula west of Avranches is an impressive sight sitting offshore in St Michel's Bay connected to the mainland by a causeway. (There is a twin St Michael's Mount near Penzance in Cornwall)

29-31 March 2006 sees some exceptional high tides on this part of the Normandy coast - morning and evening. This means that the on rush of the tide is quite spectacular and it's a good time not to get stuck on the causeway from the mainland. However, low tide can be equally impressive - receding several tens of kilometres offshore - the sea then gives way to over 60,000 acres of sand, rivers and mudflats - a magnet for all kinds of birds. It's a good time to go, as in the summer there are hoardes of tourists to what is a major historical, cultural and spiritual attraction.

There is an excellent website about the Mont St Michel and the bay at www.baie-mont-saint-michel.fr/ which is avaiable in English - there are some stunning photos.

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There seems to be a way to get the best of both worlds when visiting Paris (or the Loire, come to that!). There are numerous campsites around Paris, but many seem to be overwhelmed by young backpackers. A new idea has been developed called "Huttopia" at Versailles which is an environmentally friendly and peaceful retreat ("campsite" seems an inappropriate term). with a variety of log cabins, timber-clad purpose-built gypsy caravans, and novel ridge tents made from wood and canvas - all in the middle of a forest.
"Being a camper primarily means looking for a direct and simple relationship with nature; it is also the pursuit of a little adventure and total freedom only limited by the constraints of nature and the determination to find a certain authenticity contrasting with daily routine.Camping in the countryside.... being content with preserved comfort with more simplicity than at home, shopping at local markets, living without the phone or television on protected campsites in the heart of nature, just relaxing or going mountain-biking or canoeing... In a word, living simply and directly is what Huttopia offers you.".
I adore Paris, but you have to admit it can be tiring, so being able to escape back to somewhere more in touch with nature sounds enticing - a chance to re-charge your batteries before another expedition into the city. And with the centre of Paris only 20 minutes or so away by RER Train - and Versailles only 5 minutes away - you really don't have to miss anything!
There is another Huttopia in the Loire Valley between Angers and Tours by the lake at Rille (37 Indre et Loire, Centre).

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Posted by frenchduck at 6:21 AM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

A recent article on Armagnac and Cognac prompts a mention of Calvados, the apple brandy from Normandy.- except that in some circumstances it is not just apples that make the brandy, but pears are included!
The best Calvados is the double-distilled Appellation Controllee Calvados Pays d’Auge, which has to be made with apples from the defined region of the Auge - an area between Caen and Rouen which lies south of Honfleur and Deaville towards and beyond Lisieux. Otherwise most of the production is plain Calvados AC which can be double-distilled, or can be made by continuous distillation.

However, it is the little-known AOC Calvados Domfrontais from the immediate region of the town of Domfront (61 Orne, Normandy) which is made of at least 30% pears!

More confusing are the labelling rules which describe the age of the brandy - so 3-star spends a minimum of 2 years in cask;"Vieux" or "Reserve" spend a minimum of 3 years in cask; "Vieux Reserve" or VSOP spend a minimum of 4 years in cask; whilst "Hors Age" (without age) can be applied to any brandy which has been aged for 6 or more years, Sometimes you will see age-specific labels such as 9-year-old, which is about the youngest spirit in the blend. If you find a rare vintage Calvados the year refers to the year of distillation, i.e. the year after harvest.

Another local speciality is Pommeau which is a blend of apple juice and Calvados - a similar idea to Floc de Gascogne or Pineau des Charentes.

Calvados Boulard has an interesting website at www.calvados-boulard.com

In the UK a good source for a wide range of interesting Calvados from a number of excellent producers is www.calvadosonline.co.uk who also feature Dream Calvados Cream!! "a delicious blend of cream and young fruity calvados from Domaine Dupont. To be enjoyed on the rocks, creamy and smooth the taste of caramel, apple and vanilla". Apples and cream are of course the quintessential Normandy produce, but personally I'll concentrate on savouring the Calvados!!

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My favourite Paris gallery, the Musée d'Orsay has a special exhibition of the paintings and drawings of Cézanne and Pissarro 1865-1885 from 28 Feb - 28 May 2006. This is in the centenary year of Paul Cezanne's death (see earlier article on Cezanne).

"The Musée d'Orsay offers an opportunity to look at two major artists of the second half of the 19th century, Paul Cézanne and Camille Pissarro, in a totally new light.
Over the period of twenty years when these two painters were close friends they often worked on the same themes, treading the same paths around Pontoise and Auvers-sur-Oise. Each influenced the other, while retaining his own identity.

In this centenary year of Cézanne's death, the Musée d'Orsay celebrates the "Master from Aix", presenting his work alongside that of the friend to whom in 1902 he paid this moving tribute: "As for old Pissarro, he was a father to me. He was a man to be consulted, rather like God.""

For more info see www.musee-orsay.fr

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Posted by frenchduck at 6:01 AM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

The town of Montlucon (03 Allier, Auvergne) between Clermont Ferrand and Bourges celebrates the local beef with a 5-day Carnival 15-19 March 2006. "“Chase away the winter and bring in the spring”: such is the scenario of the Boeuf Villé carnival, with its principal character Carmentrau (local dialect for “Lent arriving”).

These ashes, symbols of Life, announce to the world the rebirth of Spring.
The event includes a programme of concerts, processions, visual and musical performances and fireworks, and beef cooked on the spit!!

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Posted by frenchduck at 7:12 AM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

Many dream, and a surprising number have done it - upped sticks and moved to France that is. Whether you are dreaming or seriously planning you might enjoy the French Property Exhibition to be held at Edgbaston Cricket Ground 24-26 March 2006.

Exhibitors include:
Estate Agents selling new and old properties in all regions of France. Both residential and commercial ventures are available. Everything from stone cottages, farms, ski chalets, villas, barns, apartments, farmhouses to new developments and buy-to-let opportunities
Builders and Developers
Private Sales - properties for sale by private individuals will be on display on this stand. If you have a property to sell, take advantage of this opportunity to sell your property at our next exhibition.
Legal Advice
Financial Advice
Removal Companies
Bookstand - books, maps and guides.

For more info see www.french-property-news.com

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Posted by frenchduck at 6:42 AM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

A recent post on Floc de Gascogne and Armagnac prompted some enquiries about the difference between Armagnac and Cognac - and indeed French Brandy.
First and foremost, both Armagnac and Cognac are "Appellation Controllee" which means that any product carrying the name has to come from a defined geographic area, and be made according to strict rules to ensure conformity and quality. For Armagnac this is an area on the Southwest of France mainly in the Gers and Gascony, between Bordeaux and the Landes forests and the Pyrenees. Cognac is made further north of Bordeaux around the Charentes river. The grape varieties used tend to be different, but the other distinguising feature of Armagnac is that it is produced using a continuous still process. This tends to yield a spirit which is richer in aroma-containing impurities - it is after all the impurities which give a brandy character. Hence Armagnac tends to be more "fragrant" than Cognac, although Cognac will tend to be more elegant and cleaner in taste.
In truth it is difficult to claim that one is better than the other - they are different in style and I have favourites in both styles.
There is also a difference in the history. Cognac was largely developed by entrepreneurs - Hennessy (Irish), Courvoisier, Remy Martin, Martell for example - names which are big brands in themselves. In Armagnac however, production was and is a more rural artisan affair - small producers spread over quite a large geographical area - so there are few big brands of Armagnac.

French brandy however can be produced anywhere in France, and is applied to any grape-based spirit distilled from wine. These tend to be less refined, but cheaper and depending on the need (e.g. for cooking or cocktails) they can be great value for money.

For Armagnac I would recommend Domaine de Lauroux at Manciet (32 Gers, Midi-Pyrenees) or see our earlier article on Floc de Gascogne & Armagnac
For Cognac, I would recommend Maison Deau at St Andre de Lidon (17 Charente-Maritime, Poitou-Charentes) - they also have a small museum and a wonderful botanic garden and glasshouse.

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Posted by frenchduck at 9:11 AM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

One of the joys of France is the discovery of novel drinks and aperitifs. One of our favourites has been Floc de Gascogne which is a rich and aromatic blend of Armagnac and unfermented grape juice made to a traditional Gascony recipe originating in the 16th century. Both grape juice and Armagnac must come from the same vineyard and be stored for at least 10 months following blending. Floc de Gascogne can only be sold following approval by a committee of experts giving Appellation d'Origine Floc de Gascogne approval.

Recommended as an aperitif, served chilled but without ice, Floc is smooth, fresh and full of juicy, fruity flavours. In order to retain the Floc's freshness and aromas, it is best drunk the year following its purchase.

We can recommend the red and white Floc which comes from Domaine de Lauroux at Manciet (32 Gers, Midi-Pyrenees) near Nogaro in the heart of Armagnac and Three Musketeers country. Here the new English owners Karen and Nick Kitchener use aged Armagnacs - this makes a notable difference to the taste - giving extra warmth and depth.

A similar concept is Pineau des Charentes which uses Cognac rather than Armagnac. It is always interesting that whilst in the UK Cognac is considered more important, if you see the wine list in a good restaurant in France, or visit the trendy food stores in Paris such as Fauchon in the Place de la Madeleine, they clearly rank Armagnac as the pre-eminent brandy.

Armagnac from Domaine de Laroux is available in the UK from:
Bentleys of Ludlow
www.planetofthegrapes.co.uk
www.winesoftheworld.co.uk in London and
Philip Pruden Wines Tel: 01476 860257 PHILIPWINE@aol.com who also stock the Floc de Gascogne.
The Armagnac is also available at one of our local restaurants - The Butchers Arms at Priors Marston, near Southam in Warwickshire.

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