For the first time in its history, and an indicator of the seriousness of the Bordeaux wine crisis, 550 growers have agreed to uproot 1800 hectares of vines (from a total of 124,000) in exchange for a bounty of €1500 per hectare - the target is between 10-15,000 hectares to be taken out of production over the next 3 years.
Time was when the name "Bordeaux" on the bottle virtually guaranteed an income, but over recent years too much mediocre wine has been made whilst demand has fallen. As usual it takes the French some time to come to terms with such a situation and such an injury to their pride, as everyone knows that Bordeaux produces the best wines in the world! The problem is that at the top end it does, but it rather fails to differentiate at the lower levels, and simply produces too much. Consumers, especially outside France, have such a choice of wines available to them that the somewhat staid image of Bordeaux is losing its glister. In comparison other regions of France look positively exciting in comparison, raising their game, experimenting with new techniques and transforming otherwise "rustic" wines - look at Cahors, Madiran, Corbieres, Vin de Pays d'Oc to name but a few - most of which to my mind produce really good wines and greater value for money.
Don't get me wrong - I have tasted many good bottles of Bordeaux, some very memorable (a bottle of St Julien Chateau Gruad Larose 1985 on the Portsmouth - St Malo ferry comes to mind) - but whereas the name of Bordeaux used to be a guarantee of quality, that no longer always applies at the lower price levels.
For more on French Wine, Food & Travel see www.frenchduck.co.uk
Keywords: France,Wine,Bordeaux,vines,Aquitaine,Gironde
