SouthWest France stands in danger of losing one of its prized gastronomic treasures - the Black (Perigord or Quercy) Truffle. This rare delicacy is particularly celebrated in the town of Lalbenque (46 Lot, Midi-Pyrenees) where there is truffle market every Tuesday between December and March.
At the beginning of the 20th Century the harvest amounted to 800 tons, whereas a mere 12 tons was harvested in 2004. The problem is that it has proved impossible to commercialise or farm this wild mushroom, and with a decreasing indigenous population the knowledge and skills to uncover these gems is disappearing - as are the specially trained dogs (or pigs) who root them out.
Mind you, 12 tons goes a long way, given the mere shavings that are used to transform any dish into a gastronomic blockbuster - and at about £85 for 100g that is more than most of us can afford.
Efforts have been made to make a synthetic truffle flavouring, but this does not appear to be very successful.
RECIPE By all accounts the best way to enjoy the heady flavour of the truffle is in an omelette "Omelette aux Truffes" Place the eggs (still in their shells) with the truffles in a sealed plastic bag or box in the fridge for 12 to 24 hours. An hour or two before preparing the omelette, break the eggs (2 per person) into a bowl, add salt and pepper and beat without frothing. Cut the truffles into pieces - slices or shavings according to taste - add to the eggs and cover. Put a little goose or duck fat in a frying pan and cook the omelette as usual.
For more on Lalbenque "Capital of the Tuffle" see www.lalbenque.net/
For more on France, French Food, Wine and Travel see www.frenchduck.co.uk
Keywords: France,Truffle,Truffe,Perigord,Lot,Quercy,Lalbenque,Omelette
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